[Busted Knuckles]

They weren’t 2 bolt crate engines though

Nope, but other than the sizes of the holes near the filter mount, they're identical except for the outer bolts which made them marginally stronger.
It would be my block of choice for a Mark IV build, 2 or 4 bolt.

 

[shovelrick]

I'm 99% sure you can use a late model type step nose cam in the "289" block too, if you want to, BTW aren't "289" blocks higher in nickel making for a stronger block? might be thinking "512"?

 

[Malibu ss 64]

Yes you can use a gen VI step nose in #289 454 blocks. Built a couple of them with that. Actually never seen a mark IV 454 block that isnt drilled and tapped for the retainer plate. Think there are no high nickel 454 oem block?

 

[92Camaro]

I'm 99% sure you can use a late model type step nose cam in the "289" block too, if you want to, BTW aren't "289" blocks higher in nickel making for a stronger block? might be thinking "512"?

NO such thing as a HIGH NICKEL GM block

 

[Busted Knuckles]

The 010/020 myth has been disproven but there are some GM blocks that are harder than others, any seasoned old fart machinist will tell you that. I haven't seen where anybody took actual block samples and broke the metallurgy down but if you have, please post a link.

 

[shovelrick]

Then what I was told in the 80's when I bought a 70 Vette LS5 engine from a good friend that was modified was a myth, live and learn

 

[71350SS]

Reading this might help to dismiss the "high nickel casting " theory although I wish it was true as I have an 010 SBC sitting downstairs.

"High Nickel" small block cylinder blocks

For years I have seen certain Chevy small block cylinder blocks, the ones with the "010/020" cast into the timing recess and behind the bellhousing flange, referred to as "high nickel" blocks. I have heard various renditions of the 010/020 designation meaning that the block has 10% nickel and...

www.trifive.com

Looks like an older post from the Tri Five site.

 

[92Camaro]

BTW aren't "289" blocks higher in nickel making for a stronger block? might be thinking "512"?

Guys, open the Facebook link.https://www.facebook.com/groups/660393891448642/posts/1333498800804811/?comment_id=1334469890707702&reply_comment_id=1334688714019153 There has been a on going conversation regarding the High Nickel content in any GM block. Read all the comments. Pay attention to Kevin Bell's post.

Facebook

www.facebook.com

92Camaro 🍻

 

[Bronze68]

No such thing as a HIGH NICKEL GM block

This.

It baffles me that so many people have perpetuated and believed that myth over the years.

I have worked in foundries all my life. Those numbers people refer to are almost assuredly pattern numbers for component identification. I have also poured many ductile iron heats, and I can tell you that the nickel range in GM blocks is nothing more than an industry-standard specification for that alloy. 350. 454, 283, 307, or whatever... all the same relatively speaking.

Relatively because the elemental composition was always slightly moving (C, Si, Ni, Cr, Mn, etc.). All cast metals have specification ranges for chemistry and mechanical properties. This was high-production work. Differences in nodularity alone will lead to different mechanical properties in different blocks. Throw in other variables like heat treatment where position within the furnace, soak time, etc. come into play - and it becomes easy to see why some blocks are slightly harder/softer than others. There is nothing pinpoint-precise about casting metal to make the processing of one engine block 101% identical to the next, and the next, and the next.

And, I can tell you from much experience that just because an alloy is within spec., that does NOT mean it will perform optimally or even meet required mechanical properties when done being manufactured.

 

[Joseph_David_2312]

If I owned a 70SS vehicle, I'd be hunting for a 70 LS6.

الدراسة في تركيا تنفيذ الديكورات و المفروشات في السعودية​

 

[Busted Knuckles]

With less than 5,000 made....happy hunting!

 

[lookback]

Rv 454 are plentiful out there and most are standard bore never taken apart. Not pretty when purchased but will do. Can use some pulleys and brackets. Oil pan, intake, exhaust are for me anyway are throw away. Most RV I have gotten are 2 bolt mains. I remove wp and balancer plus front timing cover to verify if the 2 or 4 bolt block. Oil pan removal is very messy especially if engine has oil. On the build main studs are real peace of mind. Another overlooked part that I will always use are total seal rings top one gapless cost but worth it. One note most rv motors are cheap but be prepared to pull it out.

 

[VORTECPRO]

Good answer, I like the way you think.....

 

[VORTECPRO]

Good answer, I like the way you think.....

 

[71malibuu]

I had a 512 block and 026 heads. Turned into a 489. When I went to sell it it sold in a day for more than I was asking. Guy drove 7 hrs to get it. I wouldn’t get all that caught up in numbers unless that’s your goal. If your just trying to have fun get any decent block that checks out ok and go with it. How many bbc cranks have you seen broken? Iv yet to see one.

 

[mrpaticular]

I have a few 512 and 289 blocks from years ago. Are their casting metals better than Gen 5 or 6 blocks? Possibly are. Everyone knows recycling metals is big business. Are the new blocks as pure. Probably not. Anyone buying a new aluminum intake knows there is steel in it. That is why they have tiny rust spots. An intake just sits there. A block is under constant attack. I vote for the Gen4.

 

[GM man]

Watch Vortecpro engine builds on Youtube, he shows what to look for in 454 blocks for a solid build, I picked up a 1975 "959" 4 bolt block that had been bored .030 over, ARP main & head studs for $450 about 3 yrs ago from a mechanic friend, check with local engine rebuild shops for a 454 block that someone never picked up

Which video in particular.
I been looking for 2 days lol

 

[GM man]

My 489 with a mild hyd roller cam made 600 ft lbs 4400-4600 590 hp at 5700-5800 builder said he could've got 700 hp with different cam & his ported heads...not for AC though 🙂 and I didnt have any rotating assembly to start with so for the same $ I went stroker, if I had a 4" rotating assb Id used it 👍

Now that sounds like a real nice street motor to me

 

[GM man]

Or you could have Mark build you a 540 or better yet, 565...people focus so much on what he can do with production pieces that they overlook what he can do when he starts with a big bore block.
After all, it's just another $3K, all blocks whether production or aftermarket need similar machining, so that's a wash.

That makes alot of sense . Pay here or pay there . The dif if any may be negligible so unless trying to keep somthimg correct or half arsed correct then might as well buy the new stuff

 

[magicrat56]

When you see -512 bare blocks selling for the same or more than an aftermarket block, it becomes a more viable option.
As far as costs, crank is the same, rods are the same, pistons are the same, lifters and rockers are the same, machine work all the same, maybe even less for the aftermarket block. Heads MAY be more expensive, depending on the choice.
The differences grow since folks with aftermarket blocks tend to throw more expensive parts in and on them.
Ah, what the hell, might as well.....

The local machine shop had a 67 427 block for $4000.00. stupid money.