IMO, I would pass. That’s too much money for what is really a core engine at best. It would need an overhaul and your betting the motor is rebuildable.

It’s funny how the seller gives greatly detailed info on how the motor ran great, uses no oil and he turns it over periodically, but doesn’t even know if it a 2 or 4 barrel carb? I call bull****. That T400 might be a long tailshafts version, and of little use to your project.

Plenty of good deals out there, this to me doesn’t sound like one of them.

 

The 68 Is a good 455, It will have C heads, which are about as good heads for a Olds. If it is a 2 barrel, it will probably have low compression pistons, that is how Olds changes compression, not with the heads. 68 was the last year, there may be a forged crank, but you would have to check,maybe? The full size tran, is not worth much. Also with Olds if it came with a auto, the crank will not be machined to put in a pilot bearing, so no 4SP will work, without a special bearing. I would Think $500 should buy it? Also OLds will cost you more to rebuild, than a Chevy BB. The torque On the Olds 455 is great, and fun to drive.

 

I'd go check it out. If I wanted it, I would buy it.

 

Here is the C.L. ad https://mankato.craigslist.org/pts/d/455-oldsmobile-engine-turbo/6722465614.html

 

That is definitely looking like a cor motor, or maybe just need cleaning up? One more thing, as far as price, to a Chevy man, it may seem high price, but to a Olds man, they realize , they have not made a 455 since 1976. so they are getting harder to find, not near as many as BB chevys laying around so the do cost a little more. You could even offer less than $500, who knows? You can always go up but not down, or tell them you don;t want the tran. Also one thing nice about Olds, going from small block to BB, all the brackets are the same, motor mounts are different, but your car is a small block, buy small block engine mounts, it will work, even on a big block.That, or you would have to change frame mounts, but no need to, just use the matched pair, don't mix them up. I have done this swap, it is no problem.

 

I would be in at that price. Haven't seen one available in my area for quite some time...

 

Having built a half dozen Pontiacs its always the same issue: They cost 3x more than Chevys to build and its hard to fetch even Chevelle prices when its time to sell. So cost is always an issue when rebuilding an Olds, Buick or Pontiac.
He has an original 350 1968 Cutlass. That's not a high dollar car. IF it was a 442 Id spend big money on the 455 cause you'll get it back being that it was a 442 car. Your son wants 455 performance at a low price? Its a 350 Cutlass. Unless the car is pristine it wont fetch top dollar at resale time. I got a 68 cutlass with a 455 and a posi and buckets for FREE 3 years ago. I could only get 1800 for it (it had sat and the motor needed rebuild it looked like the one in the picture)

Is your son an Olds purist? If so rebuild his original 350. If not get a good high performance 454 or LS1 in there...

 

Having built a half dozen Pontiacs its always the same issue: They cost 3x more than Chevys to build and its hard to fetch even Chevelle prices when its time to sell. So cost is always an issue when rebuilding an Olds, Buick or Pontiac.
He has an original 350 1968 Cutlass. That's not a high dollar car. IF it was a 442 Id spend big money on the 455 cause you'll get it back being that it was a 442 car. Your son wants 455 performance at a low price? Its a 350 Cutlass. Unless the car is pristine it wont fetch top dollar at resale time. I got a 68 cutlass with a 455 and a posi and buckets for FREE 3 years ago. I could only get 1800 for it (it had sat and the motor needed rebuild it looked like the one in the picture)

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Is your son an Olds purist? If so rebuild his original 350. If not get a good high performance 454 or LS1 in there...

Location Location Location
If that Cutty was here in north east Jersey it would have sold in around a month and a half.Especiallly west coast cars that are reasonally priced,they sell FAST around here.Rust free AND a big block car ? unless it was overpriced it would be gone,quick.

 

700 isnt too bad if the guy will give a written guarantee it will run. if not offer a bit lower or do a compression check on the engine. also the old delta 88s were owned by older folks who basically just drove the land yatchs so it's probably not been abused.
clean it up, fresh paint, rebuild the carb a d drop it in. it's not about the investment, it's about adding cubes to a hotrod. None of these cars are really a investment when you add up what's spent on them, it's what makes the owner happy that makes it all worth it. jim

 

When I special ordered my factory 5sp 76 Cutlass, the ONLY way to get a 5sp was with the small Olds V8 (or V6). If a 455 was ordered, ONLY a Turbo 400 was available. Period!
So I chose to go with the 5sp/small V8.
Fast forwaard 10yrs. I still wanted a 455, BUUUUUUUUUT, I had already gone through 3 of the 5spds!!!! So it was obvious that a 455 and the original style 5sp would not work! I started shopping around for a stronger transmission and ended up buying a Richmond Street 5sp. Those are tough trannys and 30yrs later, it has not been touched!
I located a rebuildable Olds 455, which had J heads, and did a total rebuild. A few years ago I pulled the 455 and ended up building it to W30 specs. I could not locate any C, D, or E heads and a REAL W30 intake, so I ended buying Edlebrock heads and intake. It is a strong, hi torque engine. I love it!
As mentioned, SB and BB Olds engines are essentially the same (UNLIKE Chevy SB-BB engines). Basically, what Olds did to go from a SB (260-307-330-350-403) to a BB (400-425-455) was to raise the cylinder decks of the block about 1in. EVERYTHING, I mean, EVERYTHING from a SB Olds to a BB Olds is almost a 100% bolt-on swap. Head bolt pattern is the same, valve covers, pan, water pump, exhaust manifolds, attachment points for ALLLLLLLLLLLLL accessory brackets, distributor, etc, etc, etc, will all swap. Of course, since the 455 is taller than the 350, the 455 intake manifold is wider and accessory belts are longer. But otherwise, is is a natural swap. Aftermarket headers are available and if it is desirable to stay with cast iron ex manifolds, then repo W30 manifolds are available (I started to go with headers, but decided to use the W30 manifolds).
Going from a SB to BB Olds is just too easy and very natural.


A couple of additional things to be aware of. As mentioned, Olds engines that were built with an auto tranny DO NOT have the necessary machined hole in the rear of the crankshaft for a pilot bushing. When I built my 455, I had my machinist machine a hole in the rear of the crank for a Chevy style pilot bushing. Again, too easy! Also, SOME Olds blocks DO NOT have the boss/threaded hole for a clutch Z-bar ball stud. So, if the intention is to go with a 4-5-6sp, check to see if the block at least has the boss. If it does, then it can be drilled and tapped for a ball stud. If there is no boss for the ball stud, then an aftermarket bracket for the ball stud can be used. The location of the boss on an Olds block will be in the same position as it would be on a Chevy block.

I added these individual 455 numbers when they were still available from the Chevy Parts dept. They are the individual numbers that were on the domed hoods of 70-74 Corvettes that came with a 454.

Finally, if it is desirable to upgrade to a 455 engine, and if that 455 is a GOOD, REBUILDABLE core, that is not a bad price-----------------BUT, I would really encourage trying to negotiate for a better price-------------you never know. I have two spare, std bore 455 blocks and one crank in my shop -------------for just in case.

 

When I special ordered my factory 5sp 76 Cutlass, the ONLY way to get a 5sp was with the small Olds V8 (or V6). If a 455 was ordered, ONLY a Turbo 400 was available. Period!
So I chose to go with the 5sp/small V8.

-------------for just in case.

The way you optioned that Cutlass was an excellent choice since you had no choice but to build your own 455.It's almost impossible to find a 73-77 GM collonade body with a stick nowadays.Doesn't matter whether its an Olds,Buick,or a Pontiac still hard to find.They are like hens teeth.

 

Here are some 455 core motors from around the country on Craigslist. I’d offer the seller half what he is asking in cash.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/d/455-rocket-olds-with-dual-4/6727527226.html

https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/d/oldsmobile-455-cu-in-engine/6725602917.html

https://toledo.craigslist.org/pts/d/455-olds-heads/6701726338.html

 

problem with finding other stuff across the country, seller could say, well just buy one of those. add in shipping, online payment etc and 750 becomes a bargain. like others said, offer to buy just the motor. maybe the seller isnt getting much interest so the price my come down

 

I had a hard time giving away a Delta 88 four door complete, 455 auto, back in 06.

 

Well, it least you won't have much traveling time in it.....'bout 10 miles and 10 minutes right down Hwy 13.....:thumbsup:

Tell the guy to keep the tranny and offer him $400 cash.

 

Back in the early 80's I picked up an Olds diesel wagon, fully loaded, leather, top of the line for the time. Diesel was a mess, IIRC I paid about $700 for the car. We drove it home, ran like crap and prepared to do a gas motor swap. Picked up a '71 Delta 88 c/w 455 and T400. Car had just under 100K on it. Set the motor on a stand, dropped the pan, swapped in a set of new main bearings, new oil pump and put it back together with new gaskets. Thing was a powerhouse. My wife drove it for a couple years. Sold it to a guy that was planning on pulling a motor home. Heads had never been off, don't remember why we changed the main bearings other than motor was on the stand and the pan was off, so why not. Cam was stock, we did bolt on an aluminum intake and a fresh q-jet. It was actually an easy swap.

 

Just about any old takeout 455 you buy will be considered a core. So go for the best core you can afford.

If possible, pullthe spark plugs and while someone turns the crank with a breaker bar, stick your finger in each spark plug hole and see if it blows it out on the compression stroke. Also, check the crank endplay. If not more than about .010 inch, there is a good chance the bottom end has no damage other than normal wear and tear.

You have a great project here.

 

If it is a 2-barrel 455 don't despair. They usually ran high compression even with the 2-barrels.
The TH400 trans behind a 455 doen't have a trick converter, but the earlier TH400s behind the 65-67 425s did. They came with variable-pitch stator blades to multiply torque. Once the 455 came along there was absolutely no need to multiply torque so they reverted to the simpler stator design to appease the cost accountants.

 

My son bought it for $700, the owner would not budge...well we needed it and we are taking the engine to our mechanic this week. He will disassemble it, and send the block out. My son is getting aluminum heads, intake and water pump, so it should be a lot lighter than it is now. We are building it for around 450-500 h.p. But the torque should be around 550 maybe. Should be a nice street motor. While its being machined, we will get the turbo 400 rebuilt, and mechanic will be putting in some 3:55 gears with a posi. We also picked up a 1971 8.5 inch rearend for it, as it has a 12 bolt olds in it right now, and from what I know, you can't get parts are a posi for them, and the 71 and 72 8.5 rear is far better I guess. Here is a video of his Cutlass.

Since this video was made, we put a headliner in it, got new 1968 Cutlass seat covers front and rear installed.

 

My son bought it for $700, the owner would not budge...well we needed it and we are taking the engine to our mechanic this week. He will disassemble it, and send the block out. My son is getting aluminum heads, intake and water pump, so it should be a lot lighter than it is now. We are building it for around 450-500 h.p. But the torque should be around 550 maybe. Should be a nice street motor. While its being machined, we will get the turbo 400 rebuilt, and mechanic will be putting in some 3:55 gears with a posi. We also picked up a 1971 8.5 inch rearend for it, as it has a 12 bolt olds in it right now, and from what I know, you can't get parts are a posi for them, and the 71 and 72 8.5 rear is far better I guess. Here is a video of his Cutlass. 1968 Cutlass - YouTube Since this video was made, we put a headliner in it, got new 1968 Cutlass seat covers front and rear installed.

Nice car and a good plan. I would source a 12 bolt for it instead of that 10 bolt since you have to dump cash into the 10 bolt. 12>10. 12 bolt adds value and a 10 keeps you guessing.

 

heck, I would have just bolted it in and see how it ran. jim

 

That motor is getting totally gone through...way too ugly putting it in the way it was.

 

Join Classicoldsmobile.com, this site is a wealth of info for Olds.

 

you better have deep pockets.you can rebuild 4 454's to one olds 455.

 

He does not have deep pockets as he is only 22 years old, but he wants it down and has the cash to do it. He like 1960's and early 70' Musclecars...how cool is that!!!, and I support him all the way.

 

With that much torque I would put 3.08 gears in it. Then at 60-70 mph it would be at 2500 rpm and still smoke the tires off the line!

 

I rebuilt the 455 in my Olds, mostly stock. Came out about the same as my 454 money-wise.

 

These engines don't need much to wake them up. Mild cam,intake and headers always does the trick. They produce a ton of tire shredding torque.I call them over square engines since the 4.25" stroke is bigger than the bore. Not very expensive to build unless you start calling Dick Miller,Mondello and/or if you have to have aluminum heads.
JMHO and experience.

 

Exactly what Chris said.
Machine work is machine work, and assembly is assembly. Unless you are buying really exotic components, a standard rebuild on an olds motor will not be significantly more than a chevy motor.

Also don't buy into the stuff all the olds "experts" want to tell you about adding oil restrictors and running loose clearances etc. That is stuff that has been passed down by guys building max effort race motors, not for guys doing stock rebuilds.
Build it following GM's machining specs and you'll be golden.

What heads are on the new motor? (look for a big Cast in letter in the LH corner next to the exhaust manifold. If it is in fact a 68 block and has "C" heads (as it should) you are almost wasting your money buying aluminum heads for it unless the original heads are ruined.

Aftermarket aluminum olds heads are only marginally better than stock heads(the cheap procomp ones are not any better than factory heads other than being lighter)... So you are $$ ahead if you have good originals to start with. just have them resurfaced, minor work done to smooth out chambers if desired and run them.

Also aluminum heads on an BBO necessitate an electric fuel pump, which are noisy PITA unless you spend a lot more $$ for a quieter one (worth it if you go that way IMO).
Maybe thats not a big deal, but its one more hassle to deal with.

Been there done that.

 

Troy, Keep us updated with progress & pictures. This is a really cool build! :thumbsup:

 

I will do that. Car goes into the shop within the next 2 weeks, and it should be done by spring. My son has no plans of reselling car, so he does not care about how much he has into it. Cool thing about the car is he bought it with the body in superb condition...it was a rust free Texas car...originally white, a guy had it painted black. The car has zero rust, never has...floors and frame are still factory chassis black sprayed on 50 years ago, and no rust. He was looking for a 68, it took us awhile to find a 68 locally...so many 71's and 72's, but the 68, and 69's hardly ever show up. The shop is going to rebuild a 1971 8.5 inch 10 bolt with a posi and 3:55 gears, rebuild the 400 Turbo with shift kit. Build the 455, aluminum heads, water pump, and intake. MSD 6AL ignition with billet distributor, aluminum radiator with electric fans, headers, Dynomax mufflers, flowmaster tailpipes, rear sway bar with boxed upper and lowers. Front end is already rebuilt, with all new bushings and components, even steering gear box was rebuilt. Front brakes are Summit cross drilled, slotted, power disk. We just dropped off the front seats Saturday for new padding and covers. The rest of the interior is finished.

 

my memory must be going, did some quick searching and can't find anything to back up my claims, so disregard on the aluminum head/fuel pump clearance thing!