Team Chevelle banner

1" Open Carb Spacer (DP Bogs)

1 reading
8K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  65chevelle300post  
#1 ·
I have always tried to run 1" spacers under my carbs, mainly for heat disappation.

I am trying to get this small bog out of this car, Single Plane, 750 HP DP, and I am having a hell of a time.

I have tried larger squirters, smaller squirters almost everything,

Would this 1" spacer weaken the booster signal, or the opposite.

I might also try a HVH Super Sucker to see if that will make the booster signal stronger.

It only happens when going from idle to full throttle, rolling it doesn't exist,,

Just thinking to myself,,,,
 
#3 ·
Let's back up a minute. How is your distributor setup? Debated to all heck here. I found that any vacuum advance at idle will cause a bog/hesitation as the timing retards. Getting that out of the way, larger squirter size didn't really resolve the issue. On 850 carb, I used the 50cc pump with pump cam to get shot started early and stay with the smallest squirter you can. My thoughts (wrong or right) were to get a larger amount of fuel moving early in throttle position, but keep the smaller squirter to try and give the fuel better atomization. I could be wrong, but seemed to me the bigger pump fed the fuel at a higher pressure through the nozzles. Been awhile, IIRC,I was using 35 or 37 squirters on the 540 motor with no hesitation at all.
 
#4 ·
GM Timing Specs
12 Initial
32 Total

No Vacuum advance MSD 85551
To start I was,
31 Primary, 35 Secondary, then 31 Primary , 31 Secondary, not much better, then 31 Primary, 37 Tube style Secondary lots better but not gone

After reading a bit a 1" open spacer can slow down or weaken the carb signal I might try it with no spacer
 
#5 ·
After reading a bit a 1" open spacer can slow down or weaken the carb signal I might try it with no spacer
I agree with this, but I needed a spacer to clear the vacuum port on the rear of the manifold. I couldn't run without the spacer so I did the 4 hole to try to compensate.
 
#16 ·
I think the motor will be a lot more responsive with the added initial timing and bigger primary nozzle. I think the motor would prefer and air gap rpm intake as well. Isn't the duration like 222/230?
 
#18 ·
You are correct on the duration. It idles like a stock engine with the 112 LS.
I am not sure why they put this huge intake, I think the Dual Plane would of been a better choice.

The distributor I am using has a 20 degree bushing, so its 12 initial and 32 total, just like the GM manual said.

I might bump it up to 16 initial and 36 total and try that, but right now, I am running a 31 Primary and a 37 squirter.

I started with a 31 and a 35, so I will but the 35 in the front now, and leave the 37 in the back and ditch the 1" spacer , its making this huge single plane even bigger.

Dave
 
#17 ·
I don't have A dbl pumper, but did add a 4 hole spacer on my 355 last week. With the 770SA I had to go from the stock 25 up to the 31 squirter. That got rid of my bog.

The jury is still out whether the spacer did any good yet. Last week was very humid. This week is much cooler.
 
#24 ·
Dave, Have you tried another carb? You bumped timing to what?
Not trying to be a pita...We really want to help...it's just I have a similar intake in size and a "1 open and a larger carb with no issues.

Are you footbraking it then mashing it? That will eat up pump shot also.

Now my timing is locked out at 38deg tho and I could almost guarantee if I dropped it to even 20deg it would do the same thing. Esp with the 269 duration @ .050 SR cam that's in there.
 
#26 ·
It's best to start at square one and first make sure that all the other fuel circuits are set up properly before attempting to tune the accelerator pump circuit. Single planes can be a real pain to tune.

http://www.nastyz28.com/~ericf/tech/htune.pdf