My fresh motor has a compcams retro hydraulic roller installed, when the oil warms up it is so noisy (valvoline VR 20/50) i have been over it with a stethoscope it sounds like a sewing machine but when that noise bounces of walls and parked cars it sounds like it needs a rebuild, I have seen some posts suggesting this is normal and you just live with it but it is very annoying, any one else having the same problem?
noisy valvetrain
ivorchevelle
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My fresh motor has a compcams retro hydraulic roller installed, when the oil warms up it is so noisy (valvoline VR 20/50) i have been over it with a stethoscope it sounds like a sewing machine but when that noise bounces of walls and parked cars it sounds like it needs a rebuild, I have seen some posts suggesting this is normal and you just live with it but it is very annoying, any one else having the same problem?
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1,235 Posts
What lifters?
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1,562 Posts
I have the morel 4603 hyd roller lifters, some have had issues with them being noisy. 10w/30 oil seems to be the sweet spot for me, where the lifters are quiet and my hot oil pressure at idle is reasonable.
On a different note, my 2017 F-350 dually with the 6.7 diesel had what sounds like a type writer noise. Once I began using 5w/40 synthetic, the tick went away. I was in a pinch last oil change and used 15w/40 Dino and the typewriter noise is back. Going back to 5w/40 this fall.
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I believe this is the thread mentioned?
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/1090914-engine-builder-willing-learn.html
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/1090914-engine-builder-willing-learn.html
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102 Posts
Thanks all for suggestions, I changed the oil and still the same.
I took off the rocker covers, got the engine hot, shut it down and pressed on the rockers with my thumb, number 5 intake lifter I can compress fully with my thumb, I started it up again and put my stethoscope in all the polylocks , it is the noisier that the others.
is this a "collapsed " lifter? can it be fixed or must it be changed, it has zero miles on it so cannot be worn out, I have seen a lot of similar issues with Compcams roller lifters on the internet, starting to wish I got standard hydraulic lifters now. anyone managed to fix one of these?
I took off the rocker covers, got the engine hot, shut it down and pressed on the rockers with my thumb, number 5 intake lifter I can compress fully with my thumb, I started it up again and put my stethoscope in all the polylocks , it is the noisier that the others.
is this a "collapsed " lifter? can it be fixed or must it be changed, it has zero miles on it so cannot be worn out, I have seen a lot of similar issues with Compcams roller lifters on the internet, starting to wish I got standard hydraulic lifters now. anyone managed to fix one of these?
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4,769 Posts
From what I see through observing my friends, retro roller cams are a royal pain in the a$$.. Better of getting the Gen 6 and be done with it..
My buddy is rebuilding his Ford 460 again, retro roller issues for the fourth time.. He always has a new answer.
Sounds like your car is a street car, if so, I would put a nice, smooth factory like hyd grind in there and be done with it...
My buddy is rebuilding his Ford 460 again, retro roller issues for the fourth time.. He always has a new answer.
Sounds like your car is a street car, if so, I would put a nice, smooth factory like hyd grind in there and be done with it...
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102 Posts
I wanted a roller cam, the idea was okay but it seems Compcams have had a lot of issues with their hydraulic roller lifters going south with zero miles on them, I would maybe get another set but not from Compcams, I have a $400 set of junk lifters with zero miles and zero warranty, there is only one knocking I think but dont trust them know, I did wonder if I could take it apart and correct the problem.
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3,289 Posts
It's not a problem to change one lifter on a roller cam setup; not like a flat tappet where you will wear the lobe out.
Just change the one lifter and see if that solves it.
Is there any difference in the "ramp rate" of a Comp vs a GM roller cam ? Just wondering if the aftermarket cams are more aggressive than the GM ones like a ZZ502 cam ?
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4,769 Posts
Were your at I would defiantly pull them apart and try to build a set with the parts. I've been there were your at with different parts and some times end up real happy with what I cobbled together..
One time I made my own set of Rhoads lifters "kind of" by using loose hyd lifter inserts. I sat there fitting them all together until I got the loosest set I could make and the damn things worked!! They tamed down that Pontiac 041 cam nicely..
I wish you luck!! Nothing like a roller...:thumbsup:
One time I made my own set of Rhoads lifters "kind of" by using loose hyd lifter inserts. I sat there fitting them all together until I got the loosest set I could make and the damn things worked!! They tamed down that Pontiac 041 cam nicely..
I wish you luck!! Nothing like a roller...:thumbsup:
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8,349 Posts
You cant take retro roller lifters apart becsuse of the rivet that holds the linkbar.
How long runtime?
Have you talked to comp cams? What did they say?
Did you build it yourshelf? If not have you talked to tor engine builder?
If it was my engine I would just replaced the pair with the lifter that is ticking.
Seems like many brands have problems with their roller lifters this days?
How long runtime?
Have you talked to comp cams? What did they say?
Did you build it yourshelf? If not have you talked to tor engine builder?
If it was my engine I would just replaced the pair with the lifter that is ticking.
Seems like many brands have problems with their roller lifters this days?
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2,760 Posts
I would stay away from Comp Cam products.
I would use the best roller lifters on the market, which would be from Isky or Crower. Needle bearings are a bitch to remove from an engine. If you can afford them, both brands offer needleless roller bushing lifters.
It's also important to get the on seat and open valve pressures to match the lifters.
I would use the best roller lifters on the market, which would be from Isky or Crower. Needle bearings are a bitch to remove from an engine. If you can afford them, both brands offer needleless roller bushing lifters.
It's also important to get the on seat and open valve pressures to match the lifters.
"I would stay away from Comp Cam products." I would too. I don't use CC retail box stuff at all.
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102 Posts
gonna try Howards lifters
Ivor,
Have you talked to Comp to see what they suggest ? It does not make any sense to spend $600 on a set of lifters that are noisy and not at least talk to the manufacturer and see if they have any suggestions ? I used a set of Comp Hydraulic rollers in a 502 boat engine last year and they have been fine. Not a real radical camshaft or spring pressures though.
Have you talked to Comp to see what they suggest ? It does not make any sense to spend $600 on a set of lifters that are noisy and not at least talk to the manufacturer and see if they have any suggestions ? I used a set of Comp Hydraulic rollers in a 502 boat engine last year and they have been fine. Not a real radical camshaft or spring pressures though.
The way they are made you really cannot take them apart to see if there is any debris in them. If you are fairly certain that it is only that one lifter I would just replace that pair and be done with it. Comp would probably replace it if you sent it back.
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102 Posts
There have been so many failures of these Roller lifters I dare not just change one as there were others that were noisy, I punched the rivet out and took it to pieces, cleaned it all with brake cleaner, the ball valve did not seat fully, I bought them 3 years ago and I am in England so no chance of sending them back
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