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From what I can see on page 7 of the thread, you drilled holes in the front of the door itself above the lower hinge and a matching hole in the outside face of the a-pillar then opened a hole on the inside of the kick panel area to route the wires. I don't see any holes in the face of the a-pillar where a pre-69 VIN plate would be. Correct? You then only used convoluted tubing, for now, to cover the wiring.

It also says, "As it was we had to disassemble the battery powered drill and reassemble it inside the door in order to drill the holes for the conduit. Fortunately these same holes (1/2 inch) would be the pilot holes for the punches in case we need to use the bellows." I take it from this that you didn't remove the door as you could have drilled the holes easily enough in the door with it off but how did you get the holes into the a-pillar area behind the hinges if the door wasn't removed? Maybe I missed that in the photos.

I do have some aftermarket bellows I purchased some time ago in preparation. I would think these could be used almost anywhere on the vertical between the door itself and the outer sheet metal on the a-pillar. I don't have access to Greenlee punches so I'd planned on using a small hole saw - after removing the door to gain access. Small problem is the size of the hole needs to be just under 1.25" so the grommet ends will have some metal to squeeze in to and stay relatively securely in place. Sort of like the 1st photo I posted but I suppose the vertical positioning of the two holes isn't critical.
Image


I don't particularly like the window switches in the doors either and until I decide on a design for a console I also plan to use a project box to mount the switches in. Only two windows and not using door locks so I only need two switches, one for each window.
We did not remove the doors. If we had it would have been easier to do.
The holes in the A pillar were drilled from the passenger compartment side.

Ron
 
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