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What filler should I use in the drip rail?

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15K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  sevt_chevelle  
#1 ·
I dug all the 43 year old cracked factory bondo out of the drip rail where the roof meets it when I stripped the roof back to bare metal, and then I shot a few coats of SPI epoxy in the drip rail and over the roof. Should I now use Everglass to fill the gap again?

My co-worker said his 63' Pickup had silicone or RTV in the drip rail.

What do you guys recommend I use?
 
#3 ·
OK, I am thinking I will just smear it in there with my finger to make it smooth and even right? You can't really sand that stuff after it is dry, right?

I am so glad this car was not a vinyl top car this roof is sooo, much nicer!
 
#5 ·
OK, I am thinking I will just smear it in there with my finger to make it smooth and even right? You can't really sand that stuff after it is dry, right?

I am so glad this car was not a vinyl top car this roof is sooo, much nicer!
You have to use a little finesse and not just smear it in there and expect seam sealer to smooth out with your finger. Use a quality urethane seam sealer. Not 3M Fast & Firm, it's outdated. Cut the tip neatly and run a bead, then use lacquer thinner or W&G remover on your finger and smooth it out neatly. Some use a brush and I've even used a rag. Piece of cake. I've seen people end up with it looking like cottage cheese when they are done.
 
#6 ·
You need to wait right before you paint the car before you seem seal that joint. One reason they crack or shrink back is because of the amount of paint thickness on the sealer. If you do it now you will get mulitple coats of urethane primer on top of the seam sealer maybe some sealer then finally your paint.

Seam sealer IMO on a location like that should be done right before you apply sealer prior to spraying the color.

If you want it nice and clean use some masking tape and tape off only what you want seamed, this method will give a nice clean job.

I would use a product made by Duramix called control flow, super nice product. Has some build but also is self leveling so you dont need to use a brush but if you do it wont leave brush marks behind.

I would tape off the seam, apply the control flow then wait about 1 min after getting done then pull the tape. This way you get a nice defined edge but with a very soft edge that you can barely feel...Eric
 
#7 ·
Sorry Eric, I forgot to mention it's the last step. I assume people should know not to pour on excessive mill thicknesses of primers and topcoats over seam sealer. My mistake. Many apply it without the bodywork being even close to finished. To the OP, no offense, but if you thought body filler was applied in that area I suggest doing more research on proper autobody techniques and products before you go any further. Mistakes are costly in this business and will add frustration to the the hobbiest's project.
 
#9 ·
Hence why I have learned to always ask before doing, while learning this autobody hobby.

Once again I am amazed at all the great info I get on here, THANKS EVERYONE!
 
#8 ·
yep, if you've got it protected with epoxy and there isn't any rust, just use factory seam sealer.
 
#10 ·
OK I am FINALLY ready all the 2K primer is on!!!

Are there any newer 2 part seam sealers on the market now that you guys recomend?

Or should I buy that Duramix Controlled flow seam sealer for this still?
 
#12 ·
I still think duramix's control flow is one of the best sealers on the market for this application.
Most of the self leveling seam sealers are pretty thin bodied and tend to run and have trouble staying on a vertical seem. Not saying one can't use a self leveling sealer it's just harder to use IMO.
Control flow is a heavier bodied self leveling sealer but doesn't tend to run like it's thinner bodies counter parts.

Evercoat is the only product that I know of that uses a regular chauking gun, but have never used their sealers nor know of anyone using it...Eric
 
#13 ·
So will any dual tube cocking gun work for this duramix?
 
#14 ·
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
DAMN !! Thanks Man, It pays to shop around. I just bought that Gun for $54 free ship on amazon and oreiley auto wanted $120 plus tax WTFO!

Should I but the 3m durramix 8329 or should I buy durmix brand control flow?
 
#16 ·
Duramix 8329 IS the control flow for use in the 3M gun.
Duramix 4229 is for use in the Duramix gun. Same product just used in a different gun as 3M bought out Duramix a few years ago.

Duramix has many seam sealers but really only three are used. I'll use the Duramix gun part numbers

1. Self-leveling 4227 very thin viscosity meaning it likes to run, hence self leveling.
Not for use on vertical seems. Used on the roof seem found on most late model cars and trucks like the Ford F150.

2 Control flow 4229 medium bodied with flowing characteristics but not a self leveling sealer. I'd use this one for drip rails and seam sealing door skins.

3. 4226 Heavy bodied doesn't flow what so ever. Used on interior seems like a trunk floor seem.