Team Chevelle banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Turnkey Crate VS Build

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
D

Datanka69

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
The options nowadays for ready built engines with warranties is outstanding. My current 350 is tired and burns a little oil with who knows how many miles are on it. I’m hitting a crossroad on making the decision to either purchase a turnkey 383 all forged 500hp, dyno’d, broken in and ready to drop in with a 3 year warranty @ around $8750.00 from Smeding Performance or roll with the bigger mouse boys and build a 421 SBC with a Dart SHP, AFR heads, HR cam etc with tons more “fun” torque to move my fat girl of a 72 A-body with a 700r4 and 3:73 in the back with a strong existing 10 bolt. The car is mostly used on weekends weather permitting and is not a daily driver by any means. I guess it all really comes down to the funds and is it possible to build one around the same pricing? Thanks
 
#4 ·
:cool: Be sure to research the so-called "warranty." Most of them are pretty limited and generally require YOU to pull the engine, YOU to crate the engine, YOU to ship the engine back to the builder, at which point the builder will determine IF they'll accept responsibility (yeah, sure they will). Once they fix it, you have to pay to have it shipped back. Some warranties are better than others, but...

IMHO get a mill that's built by a local engine building expert. They often have day jobs repairing Honda's, but on weekends they're at the drag strip.

Anyways, If I were going to buy a non-local engine I'd toy with the idea of buying an assembled short block (say for instance a BluePrint 540 CID BBC) and then add a Top End Kit (say an Edelbrock 2079), and then accessorize it to my likes/needs.
 
#5 ·
Are you going to drive it or race it? Built to the hilt engines are cool, sound great but sometimes are not great for driving around town with the mrs smelling like gas and yelling at each other to talk.
 
#6 ·
well, the "smart boys", might see close to your magic "500HP", 10% less HP for a third less cost.

https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-383-stroker-mid-dress-engine-435hp-p/hp36m.htm

Which likely is TONS more than you have now. Their 500 Hp version stickers at $6600.

Dont know how much experience Nickey Chevelle has had with local engine builders, but its hit or miss, mainly miss in fact. Heck, do searches here for a small statistical sample. Yet, an option would be to have your tired 350 redone by someone local. That should be a sub $2000 deal with a flat tappet cam and some work on your part.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#7 ·
You want tq to move that heavy 72 id find a way to do the 421....even a mild version will move it very well!! Without lots of big cam hassles. The 383 is a nice improvement but the 421...BB tq without the weight nor having to twist it to move the car.
Youll fall in love with the big stroke!
Love the current 383 but would not do it again, always go bigger.
 
#8 ·
I'm in the process of building a 406 right now and if I had to do it all over again, I'd probably just get a crate engine from ATK. I would have saved money and time. I enjoy building engines, but between working 55-60 hrs a week and remodeling my house, there isn't a lot of time left for hobbies.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
nitrofox said:
I'm in the process of building a 406 right now and if I had to do it all over again, I'd probably just get a crate engine from ATK. I would have saved money and time. I enjoy building engines, but between working 55-60 hrs a week and remodeling my house, there isn't a lot of time left for hobbies.
Click to expand...
I know exactly how you feel brother
 
#10 ·
Ask your engine builder to furnish you with dyno inc engine efficiency and before & after balance sheets. Does he balance < 2 grams ? Show you his crank polishing machine. Does he stock parts or does he order one piece at a time ?

Remember, the longer the stroke, the slower it’ll rev up !
 
#11 ·
Torque is king on the street, it's fun.
I you're building the Strong 10 bolt now, consider going to really good axles and 1/2 inch wheel steel studs all around. If you are ever going to beat on it, a c clip eliminator, it's cheap insurance over wrecking the car. Or spend more money... and get a moser/currie/ ... 9 inch.
 
#12 ·
The following is something that should be considered. Wherever you decide to acuire your engine what happens when something goes wrong, be it the fault of the engine builder or your fault. How difficult is it going to be to get resolved? Are you going to have to pull the engine, crate it up and pray it isnt damaged in shipping? Or is the builder within driving distance. Everyone is happy when things go right but stuff happens on occasion.
 
#14 ·
I'm not sure I wanna say this in public, but I had SWP build my 572 for me. I spec'd pretty good stuff- Dart block good Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, AFR heads with good parts, all ARP fasteners, ect. Their machine shop is top notch, they have very knowledgeable guys in there, and they gave me a really good price on it as a turn key piece. It made really solid power on the dyno, right where it was expected to be. I built it with a fairly mild cam to not kill the valvetrain too fast and it came out at 717 tq and 718 hp. I haven't fired it yet, but am working with them to honor the warranty from the time we fire it. I couldn't come close to building this for what I paid them for the package.
 
#15 ·
shelteredv said:
I'm not sure I wanna say this in public, but I had SWP build my 572 for me. I spec'd pretty good stuff- Dart block good Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, AFR heads with good parts, all ARP fasteners, ect. Their machine shop is top notch, they have very knowledgeable guys in there, and they gave me a really good price on it as a turn key piece. It made really solid power on the dyno, right where it was expected to be. I built it with a fairly mild cam to not kill the valvetrain too fast and it came out at 717 tq and 718 hp. I haven't fired it yet, but am working with them to honor the warranty from the time we fire it. I couldn't come close to building this for what I paid them for the package.
Click to expand...
SWP uses only ARP !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNLMb0aTwcQ
 
#17 ·
Turn key crate engines are fine for cruisers but if you are going to go racing then a properly clearanced engine from one of the race builders would be in order. I have a friend with a 502 GM crate engine that runs 11.60 to 11.70's and he is always complaining how he would like to go faster. After several suggestions he never listens to me and continues to go backwards with the car. After I ran the 11.78 with the Peanut port head 461 he was shocked that something with that tiny of a port can go almost as quick as his square port 502 engine. His buddy is the same way, put a bigh dollar 454 SBC in his Nova, car runs 11.40's. I told them to keep right on going to the car shows as it's a pretty nice looking car. Build'em loose, spun them up and have some fun. That's the way I build my engines.
 
#18 ·
68Chevele said:
Turn key crate engines are fine for cruisers but if you are going to go racing then a properly clearanced engine from one of the race builders would be in order. I have a friend with a 502 GM crate engine that runs 11.60 to 11.70's and he is always complaining how he would like to go faster. After several suggestions he never listens to me and continues to go backwards with the car. After I ran the 11.78 with the Peanut port head 461 he was shocked that something with that tiny of a port can go almost as quick as his square port 502 engine. His buddy is the same way, put a bigh dollar 454 SBC in his Nova, car runs 11.40's. I told them to keep right on going to the car shows as it's a pretty nice looking car. Build'em loose, spun them up and have some fun. That's the way I build my engines.
Click to expand...
Great story !

Heck of a difference between a car show “Thumper” and a high performance engine !

I’ve seen posts right here complaining “DZ 302’s have poor street manners”. !
 
#20 ·
Buddy had a 302 Camaro he ordered from the factory.
Said with slicks and 4 speed and 411 gears it went into the 12's.
30-30 cam in it.
My cam grinder has an original cam 30-30 or call it 365 HP 327" cam etc. made a master off of it decades ago.
He said the 268H will run circles around it though.

When UD Harold designed the 268H he did it with the thought that it was going to make more power than the GM cam and have better manners and get better MPG. (That is what I read years ago)
It does all that.
 
1 - 20 of 60 Posts
About this Discussion
59 Replies
30 Participants
Last post:
Reelysalty
Team Chevelle
posts
5.3M
members
131K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet Chevelle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restorations, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Performance Engine Chevelle Tech Body Shop