[YenkoChevelle69]

Started my 489 assembly last night! (with pictures)

It's not much, but it sure is a start. It took alot longer to clean up the block than I thought. Been collecting parts for 2 years. Anyhow, here are some pictures.

From the top. This is the block prior to any cleaning. It sat covered with a quilt for almost 2 years.

From the bottom, less main caps.

All clean! I first used scalding hot soapy water and a toilet brush to get the dust and dirt off. I next used transmission fluid on the main journals, and cylinder bores. WOW what came off on those rags was amazing! 2 cans of brake cleaner did the trick to cut any remaining cutting oil etc. I then lightly oiled down the cylinder bores, and the main journals (temporarily) with engine oil until I am ready to drop in the rotating assembly.

All taped up and primed. 3 coats of duplicolor primer. Man I have nothing but great things to say about this stuff. It sticks well and covers even better.

Casting numbers for those who care. Nothing special. It's a 90-91 SS454 pickup block.

WOW, sure turned out BRIGHT. Again, 3 coats of duplicolor CHEVY ORANGE. (almost bought Hemi orange by mistake. Wonder if I would have ever lived that one down.) Nothing but fantastic things to say about this brand of paint.

All untaped and purdy.

MMMMM All ARP studded and ready to go!

Another view of the studs in their new home.

Lastly, here it is with it's caps on right before I left for the night.


Anyhow, thanks for looking!

 

[Brettd85]

Great start! Arent you supposed to align hone if you put studs on?

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

It was align honed at the machine shop.

 

[69-CHVL]

It was smart to mask off the motor like you did. I didn't, and when I tore back into the motor for some mods, I found specs of paint embedded in the paint. This was from just painting the complete motor with the valve covers off. Only slight amount of overspray on the heads/springs.

PS - the paint may seem tacky, and will stay that way till you fire up the motor and go through a couple of heat cycles. Then it cures and turns to iron!

 

[Freddy Mercado]

Dude, that looks hot!!! Looks like all your prep work paid off big time!!!! Good job.......

 

[blazerbob]

Very nice! Must mean some serious business with studded mains! Care to share what rotating assembly, heads, cam, intake, carb, and application! Street/Strip, trans, gears etc. Sorry, just nosey, like to hear of others combos! You certainly have a nice foundation. One question, is that a bolt hole on swivel of engine stand that bolt holds engine in place?! Not trying to be smart, just pointing out a safety feature, engines can slowly work themselves out without bolt to secure!

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

Hey thanks for the concern! Yes, thats a bolt hole, however the handle is in the back. You can't see it because it is so dark. It's there however, so no way it can work it's way out.

Lets see....
.030 block
scat 4.250 crank.
Manley 6.385 rods
JE pistons for 6.385 rods with 18cc domes.
Unsure of cam just yet.
Intake will be a RPM Air gap.
Holley 950 HP carb
781 heads with porting and blending etc etc and large valves
68 M21 4 speed
355 12 bolt posi


I can't honestly say why I went with such a large (read expensive) engine since I really only plan to cruise this car and shows/drive ins etc.

 

[blazerbob]

Ok I'm now relieved that you and engine are safe! Nice build! Well thought out! Considering maybe one of Harold's Hyd. Rollers?! I'm sure others will pipe up with some other suggestions! With the quality parts you've chosen this engine will hold up no matter what you throw at it!

Bob

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

Thanks! I plan to give Harold a call at some point. I'll need some help figuring out what I want.

 

[65cayne]

I can't honestly say why I went with such a large (read expensive) engine since I really only plan to cruise this car and shows/drive ins etc.

...It's only natural...to have and not need, 'tiz better than to need and not have...

I'm jealous. Nice motor.:yes:

 

[magna19]

Looks great. Go hyd roller you will love it.

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

Found these pictures of the engine fresh from the salvage yard. It's come a long way!

Fresh out of the GMC3500 work truck.

Minus some garbage

Part of "some garbage"

Different view

Goodbye TBI intake

Hello filth!

Less the pass side head..... BUT WHAT'S THIS? Hello Detonation!

But it couldn't be any worse on the other side, RIGHT????

Driver side number 4 cylinder... WTF?!?!?!?!?! It couldn't be any worse, RIGHT? RIGHT?.... wrong.

Mr Wrist pin politely excuses himself from Mr Piston, and introduces himself to Mr Cylinder wall. This cylinder ended up getting a sleeve.

This engine ended up spinning every bearing in it! So, I think it's come a long way from what it was. I hope you all enjoy! I'll update pictures as I do more work.

 

[93Polo]

I can't honestly say why I went with such a large (read expensive) engine since I really only plan to cruise this car and shows/drive ins etc.

'cause spinning tires is fun

Looking good

 

[FRYNTYR]

Hope you didn't pay a bunch for the core at the salvage yard? Or at least got some money back.

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

Hope you didn't pay a bunch for the core at the salvage yard? Or at least got some money back.

Paid 400 for a complete engine from air cleaner to engine mounts to pan. Got about 600 back out of parts that i sold off.

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

Well, I managed to get the crank dropped in her tonight.

Here is the block with it's fresh bearings.

Here we are with the crank dry fitted and pastiguaged.

Another shot

All bearings came in right at .003 after being plastiguaged.

 

[YenkoChevelle69]

And here we have the bearings coated with fresh bearing lube ready to accept the crank for the last time.

Another shot.

All torqued down and ready for rods!

This crank turns so smooth that it's crazy. The lubricant I used on the bearings is called Lubriplate that I bought at carquest. All the bearings came in at .003. I torqued the main bolts at 50, then 70, and finally 90 foot lbs using arp's own moli lobricant. Installed the 2 pc rear main, and lightly oiled the surface that faced the crank to prevent dry start. We set the thrust on the crank and torqued that main cap down last while prying the crank forward with a large screw driver. It seems to be going together without a hitch.

 

[Bob West]

Its lookin good!!!

 

[Freddy Mercado]

Yeah, it is a good looker!!! Keep up the good work.......

 

[Budget Racer]

Your probably gonna have to clearance the bottom of some cylinders for the rod bolts to clear:yes: I did on mine. I have heard of some blocks clearing but I have not personally seen one! Looks like a better foundation then my poor mans 2 bolt:hurray: Good luck:hurray: