A recent thread had several posters describing their tricks to changing spark plugs. I intended to add my two cents, but decided to wait for a picture. Well, can't find the original thread, so started my own.
Take a cheap spark plug socket, the kind with a rear external hex for a 3/4" wrench (some are longer than others, choose the shortest). With the inner rubber removed, determine how much can be ground off the plug side, yet still engage the plugs hex. Then flat grind the end accordingly, keeping the opening square. In my paticular case, I never use a ratchet, so the plug terminal can extend all the way into the sockets 3/8" square drive opening if desired. Next, viewing the plug opening, grind a notch the width of one of the six hex flats, approximately 1/2" deep. This allows an angled approach to the plug, as the notch can staddle the ceramic insulator. I also bevelled the outer diameter on the plug end.
This will reduce the clearance required to slip the socket over plug. If socket strength is a concern, then you obviously over torque your spark plugs.
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Here's mine compared to a standard Craftsman.
Oh yeah, I also ground down the open end of a 3/4" combination wrench. I previously had a similarly altered 3/4" stubby wrench, but left it and the socket under the hood once. I heard them hit the ground while turning a corner, some 7 miles down the road. After work, I returned to the intersection, but was onlty able to recover the socket.
Take a cheap spark plug socket, the kind with a rear external hex for a 3/4" wrench (some are longer than others, choose the shortest). With the inner rubber removed, determine how much can be ground off the plug side, yet still engage the plugs hex. Then flat grind the end accordingly, keeping the opening square. In my paticular case, I never use a ratchet, so the plug terminal can extend all the way into the sockets 3/8" square drive opening if desired. Next, viewing the plug opening, grind a notch the width of one of the six hex flats, approximately 1/2" deep. This allows an angled approach to the plug, as the notch can staddle the ceramic insulator. I also bevelled the outer diameter on the plug end.
This will reduce the clearance required to slip the socket over plug. If socket strength is a concern, then you obviously over torque your spark plugs.
Here's mine compared to a standard Craftsman.
Oh yeah, I also ground down the open end of a 3/4" combination wrench. I previously had a similarly altered 3/4" stubby wrench, but left it and the socket under the hood once. I heard them hit the ground while turning a corner, some 7 miles down the road. After work, I returned to the intersection, but was onlty able to recover the socket.
