I’ve used FatMat. Did not install it in the doors, but I don’t think stuff will ever come off easily.

 

I've used Peel n Seal from Lowes numerous times and have never had an issue with it coming off. If you install it on a clean surface, you better have it where you want it the first time!

 

I put P&S in mine about 4 years ago, not a single problem and no smell at all. I warmed the metal with a heat gun right before applying it and it isn't going anywhere.

 

+1 for the Lowes Peel & Seal. People told me that it would smell like asphalt and road tar on a hot day . . . not so on the hottest of Louisiana days. Before applying the material, I hit it with a thousand watts of heat gun heat and never smelled a thing then or now. Nice price compared to the alternatives. Seriously, no smell.

No matter which of these products you pick, good surface preparation is important prior to laying it down. My floor, back wall and ceiling all got a spray coating of clear coat to give the sticky side of the sound deadening the best possible bonding surface. Basically, it needs to be clean and smooth metal. If no clear coat, at least remove loose rust and any dirt.

Even upside down on the underside of my El Camino ceiling, the Peel & Seal is hangin' tight!!!

Rick

 

Dynamat in 3 cars. Never a problem. Expensive though

 

Thanks all, for the advice and recommendations!

Greg

 

I've seen that Loews or Home Depot tar based cheap crap ooze out of a door on hot days during a Texas summer. I also don't particularly care for the name brand stuff since having to go through the process of removing it for a floor and firewall mod in a car.

 

I used Reflectix from Lowes and a/c supply house spray glue (not the junk glue HD or Lowes sells) for my roof above my TMI headliner, Dynamat Extreme (CL) and FatMat (Ebay) I'm in Fl. and going to be adding a/c :thumbsup:

 

Cool-it 14620. Much cheaper than Dynamat and I felt it was a very good product.

Around 2:14 you can see how I laid mine. I am weight stingy so I put chunks down rather than sheets and I still feel the result was good.

 

Lowes Peel n Seal. No smell from mine. Can't comment on whether it runs, as I put it under the carpet.

 

I wonder if the mil thickness is the only real difference on the peel & stick stuff, Dynamat Extreme to Peel & Stick roofing material...? maybe tar material or how much?

 

I don't trust the chemicals they make that stuff with. You'll be breathing all that in. On my 69 el camino I used undercoating made for airplanes from Lanolin called Fluidfilm. Its clean and smells nice.

Those el caminos have small interiors with sedan doors, they will by design be quiet already, I know mine is. People usually comment on the quietness or the smooth ride of my car..

.Sorry! Something went wrong!

 

Bought a couple rolls of the Peel & Seal today, gonna use it on my roof.

 

I just ordered hush mat they make a complete interior kit for these old cars. It has 125 sq.ft of material less then Dyna mat just under $800


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125 sq.ft of material just under $800

That’s pretty steep! 200 sq ft of 80mil FatMat is $365 on eBay.

 

I used Reflectix on the roof from Lowes at about $25, a/c spray glue $5, Dynamat Extreme from CL IIRC $60 did the floor under dash firewall to behind the front seats and FatMat did from behind front seats to top back of rear package tray, both doors and behind rear side panels but I don't remember FatMat cost but IIRC under $150 and I still have some left for another project :thumbsup:

 

It’s definitely steep but, It’s rated up to 550 degrees for heat which will make insulating the firewall and floor a huge improvement. I’m in Southern California and on a summer day the heat was terrible in the car.


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hi
What do you do for the inaccessible areas or even as an alternative .
Answer
Use a Product made by 3M called Stonegard . Yes it sprays on with its own gun .
With good quality carpet and quality thick underlay. Windows up cannot hear the exhaust note.

Under floor ,inside boot ,under side of roof ,inside all wheel archs

This product is used a lot in the crash industry.. Mainly for stone protection but u also see it in sound deadening duties .

It stops panel vibration noise and tire noise really well .

 

A product called "Lizard Skin" is another paint on sound deadening product that works well for my EC.

Rick

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Spray ons are great for the places hard to get to, I had a case of duplicolor under coating that I also sprayed inside the car in the hard areas, I forgot about that

 

Greg. I put down kilmat in my 70 last spring and I'm happy with it. I did 80 mil on the floor and 50 mil on the doors and behind the seat/wheelwells. Took dad up to Canada for the show in Kimberly last July and we had the windows up with the pull vents open and it was very comfortable. Also, we could have a decent conversation going 65 down the highway!

 

Positing only to get notifications:

I used Dynamat on all of my floors in my ‘68 ElC. I just recently removed the headliner and want something that will absolutely positively not come down from the ceiling before I install a new headliner. If whatever I use sticks well there I’ll use the same inside the doors when that time comes.

Currently I live in a mild climate but expect to be moving to Tucson within two years.

Thoughts?

 

Dynamat, Lizard Skin, etc, etc, are all designed to kill the resonance in the metal. What else do you guys do to stop outside noise from coming in or absorbing it once it does?

I also see a lot of inner door frames completely covered with Dynamat. Do you guys do anything at the openings? I’m just concerned about all the crap that might get stuck to the sticky surface at the openings inside the door.

 

Guys

Interesting information here but I have a seconday question / followup question to the topic. A lot of threads discuss sound deadening and a lot of threads discuss insulation. It seems to be one or the other topic but it never seems to be both topics.

What is the common wisdom about sound deadening material AND insulation material. Is there a product that accomplishes both? Do folks use two different productss together and if so what are those products.

I have been thinking about additonal insulation and figure that more sound reduction would also be also be a good idea.

Any real world experiences with solving both the insulation and the sound deadening problem?

 

“Sound Deadner” is to reduce vibration in the metal. Not shaking but harmonic vibration and the “tinney” sound. Some people completely cover areas and in this case it adds some thermal insulation too.

“Insulation” is used to absorb noise and for thermal.

You should use both. There are a lot of articles on the web about the proper way to “sound-proof” your car. I don’t think you’ll ever a get a Chevelle to the level of a new Benz especially if you like to hear your exhaust or solid lifters or turbo whine but it can help.

In my 66 I used Dynamat on the inside of the outside door skins, the inside door skin behind the door panels, the inside of the outer quarter panel skins, the inside of the quarter frames behind the quarter panels, the entire floor, the inside of the firewall and the portion of the rear wheel wells that face forward.
I used a sheet of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) between the back seat and the trunk and under the package shelf. It is taped at the seams and around the edges to 100% seal it.
I added jute insulation over the MLV and on the floor area under the back seat. I re-carpeted the car with original style loop carpet with jute on the back.
I’m redoing the headliner now and the original roof sound deadner is in amazingly good shape so I’m not touching it.

Did it help?
Eh....

The doors sound super solid when they close which is nice. I’ve got a droning issue with the mufflers which might have been more annoying if I hadn’t added the deadner/insulation. I’ve also got a whistling window due to a mis-manufactured door seal. I definitely don’t hear as much road noise so I got that going for me.

Next I’m going to try to find a way to seal up the trunk from the quarters above the rear wheel wells. I feel I’m still getting somE noise come through there, probably through the window felts.

I sold 2 mW, 3600 HP, 16 cyl diesel generators for a living and we got pretty good at reducing the overall noise down to various levels as required by local codes so now that I’m retired this is just a personal quest for me. Plus I drive this car A LOT so comfort is more important to me then if it were a weekend car.

 

sprayed the floor with the same stuff MB uses, put it on the floor and smugglers box to save weight
Headliner used simple 3m spray adhesive and carpet padding on the roof tin can effect gone, lightweight
OP the peel and stick stuff wont come off...helps with road noise...if you dont mind the cost. I didnt want to add a lot of weight
Firewall made an exception and used the heavy rubber/padded insulator, filled all the little holes. Doing your doors will help a lot along with weatherstrip

 

Yesterday I discovered that I still had half of a box of Noico 80-mil sound deadener in my pile of stuff. Since I won’t be reinstalling my headliner for quite a while I decided to put it on my ceiling to see if it stays put. If it starts to come loose I’ll let you all know.

 

I've not done mine yet, as I'm not to that stage quite yet. I was looking at a homemade lizard skin, that uses micro balloons and whatever kind of paint you'd prefer to mix it with, but I'm kidna thinking I won't add anything. Be that as it may, how about just using the factory jute and whatever they came with from the factory. For me, again for "ME", I am kinda liking the old car thing, some rattles and noises. I can hear the engine, the exhaust rumble, all that. Kinda takes me back in time to how the cars were back in the day. If I wanted a quiet car, with the ride of a modern car, I guess I'd buy a modern car. But to each his own of course. Don't flame me