1. Raise the front end to stock height, get the wt bias to shift rearward
2. Remove the front sway bar at the track, ditto
3. For the price of a few bolt ons, just get the slicks....best bang for the bucks.

I'd CHECK the angles first

Roll THROUGH THE BOX then do the burnout

What shocks frt and rear?

 

Brett
The no hop bars will sometimes dent your bed. I ended up just running the bolt in ladder bars in the rear. They ride rough but they work PERFECT it plants that rearend.

 

I have seen dents in trunks, but not beds as the bed is higher up. The 66 and on have much more clearance between bed and rear too I believe. I know it is more common in the 64-65's. I will take some measurements though to make sure I clear.

 

George, you may be right about my car having poor weight transfer, yet it still hooks really well...

Not raising the front George!

A little worried about removing front sway bar because of car handeling at that speed.

You are right I should measure first to see where the problem lies but it is most likely pinion angle.

I'm borrowing the slicks already. Just hoping after getting them wet that they dont hop. A bolt on to fix the problem would be nice though.

 

Go with the no-hops. If they dont hit your trunk or whatever problem you truck boys have

I dont think its your pinion angle.:noway:

Good to see your gona be running slicks FINALLLY!

 

I dont think its your pinion angle.:noway:

What do you think it is?

 

get the UMI relocation brackets- they are designed to help cars that are lowered. Best $100 i spent on my suspension stuff(just be sure to throw away their hw and go buy new grade 8 stuff from napa)

Completely eliminated the wheelhop i had and made it hook.

 

Whats the install like on those? You bought the bolt in correct?

 

Gosh your so smart!

I will take some measurements to see if the no hops will even clear. I also dont feel like trying to remove my top housing bushing to install the no hops. My lowers are nearly level right now.

 

You just need a flat head screwdriver and a big hammer Honestly both the umi lowering kit and the no-hops would probbaly work for yah.

 

Hey Rambo, did you put your lowers in the lower most hole or the uppers on the UMI jobbers?

 

you don't need both-

No hop bars & the UMI relocation brackets do the same thing- just different ways.

No hop bars will hit the bottom of your bed and dent it- been there done that (my first 69 elky) and you will also need to get a longer rear brake hose, as yours will get streched out.

The UMI brackets, you unbolt the LCA from the axle- unbolt the bottom of your shocks- Bolt on the brackets, bolt on the shock again- then bolt up the LCAs. Easy peasy. Especially since you've already got new arms on there, so no messing wth 40 year old bolts that don't want to come off...

I am using the lowest setting in the brackets- i have never tried the middle one, but always meant to do some back to back track testing- just never got around to it. The bottom setting has done great for me.

 

you don't need both-

No hop bars & the UMI relocation brackets do the same thing- just different ways.

.

I know I was just joking silly.


Well I already ordered the UMI's so I'm stuck now! :yes: :hurray:

Thanks for your replies fellas, hopefully these do the job for me and improve my 60' times a tad.

 

Ok guys, thinking I should do this before running slicks at the track on the 22nd...

I still get wheel hop if I try to sit with brakes and do a burnout ever since I converted to manual. I am unsure if doing it in a water box would change this. If I launch with lots of power and just roll out there is no wheel hop. At the track launching with more traction I did get some.

I am running global west tubular lowers, my car is lower than stock. Lowering the car helped but I still get it a little bit. Manual trans makes it much worse... Running stock springs which have been cut and air lift helper bags.

Should I get no hop bars?


Should I get UMI relocation brackets?


Should I get adjustable upper arms to change pinion angle?


Should I try different trans mounts to change pinion angle?

Put a 6 cylinder in it, guaranteed to cure your wheel hop

 

or my 350

 

I get wheel hop in my XB:yes: I must have too much power

 

I got the relocation mounts installed today and took it for a test. I dont think traction improved at all, if anything it seemed to get a tad worse.. Wheel hop is gone though and now I just need to work on not rolling forward when trying to do a burnout. Guess I'm an amateur. Sure not as easy as with an auto or especially a line lock. I have trouble using my right foot for both gas and brake like Darryl.

 

I got the relocation mounts installed today and took it for a test. I dont think traction improved at all, if anything it seemed to get a tad worse.. Wheel hop is gone though and now I just need to work on not rolling forward when trying to do a burnout. Guess I'm an amateur. Sure not as easy as with an auto. I have trouble using my right foot for both gas and brake like Darryl.

Must suck having a size 5 shoe huh?

glad to see the wheel hop is gone though. you are in the realm of sticky tires now you have to step up if you wana hook.

 

Haha thx Brian. I have size 12's but still the gas pedal is so far down compared to the brake. I am also running manual brakes and you have to press them pretty hard.

 

We got the same brakes bud remmeber?

Just floor it, dump the clutch and move your left foot over to the brakes immediately. That oughta do the trick.

 

If you can't heel and toe the gas and brake, can you catch the right side of the brake with the left edge of your shoe and use the right edge of your shoe to work the gas?

I used to just go right foot on brake, clutch in, quickly stab the gas with your right up to 3000-3500 and side step the clutch and get that foot immediately on the brake.

If you are on fairly level ground you shouldn't roll 6-12". Usually you shock the tires and it won't even move before you can get your foot on the brake.

 

Maybe Brian and I should take turns showing you?

 

Hey Brett Im able to do it with my little size 9 1/2 shoes... I push the break with the heal of my right foot and use my toes or front of my right foot to run the gas peddal.. I rev the motor up to about 2000-2500 and dump the clutch then I transfer the left foot to the brake and the right goes to the gas. If you get it spining quick enough it will stay in one place but if you do it to slow it will want to push the car forward... Just need practice doing it in some water which yes is easier...

 

Thx guys. Wish I had a place to practice... Only got to try twice before I was afraid of someone calling the cops on me. Not much wilderness around kirkland.

 

head down to the big industrial park behind Woodenville (just south of the red hook brewery)

That big long streatch is almost always deserted at night- never has cops on it, and plenty of open parking lot in & between the industrial buildings down there for burnouts.

Not that i know from experience or anything

 

Which gear are you in? Try your burnouts using second, take it up to 4k and let the clutch out fast to break the tires loose. You get a better burnout as your tires are spinning faster.

 

Take some lessons....

 

Kevin, you do yours in second? I was trying first.

 

Your tires don't turn over fast enough in first to do much. You need to do it in at least 2nd.

 

You could use a broom handle or a sawed off hockey stick to hold the brake down until you get your foot over on it.

However, I'd go with the fancy footwork instead. Some good video Bryan posted there.

 

2nd gear burnouts Brett otherwise the RPMS are too hard to control....

 

We have a short burn out area due to class so I start in 3rd gear but with a line lock and it is only a few seconds

 

I did my first one in first gear but then after talking with Darryl I started doing them in second..

 

If yah think about it say in first gear at max rpm your tires are going what 35mph? somthing like that

in second gear you can turn them up to 70?

but in third gear 120mph:beers:, heat those suckers up

 

I wonder if I could get them to brake loose in 4th....140mph...:beers:
I think they would explode...