base/clear is the best way to go. If you mess up putting the color on it is easier to fix. Then the clear can be applied in several coats of which about half will be removed during the cut/buff process.
My wagon is a metallic color and a friend experienced in painting laid it on real nice. The Nova wagon will be a solid color and I will attempt it myself using what i learned during the Chevelle paint process.

 

I will have to admit the last time I tried/failed with base/clear I was in a horrible position for painting of any sort. I might elect to try it again under more favorable conditions. It does seem like it should be much easier to get a great looking finish without a lot of follow up work.

I have noticed from images on the net that certain colors such as Willow Green seem to have a wide variance of "shades" for lack of a better term. Is it just me? You can really see the difference in images here... Willow Green 1965 Chevelle - Bing images

 

You can't really get a good idea of that color off of the computer and also there are different colors on that same screen as you pointed out. .There are going to be variances in Willow Green by Formula and from paint line to paint line. Don't get freaked out by that. If you are settled on Willow Green, Most any auto body supply shop can mix up the formula. Have them mix up a pint and do a spray out test panel with clear. There is more skill involved in laying down a nice single stage metallic job than it takes to spray a metallic base/clear. Do you want the satisfaction of painting it yourself or is it to try and save some money on labor? Even a seasoned painter will have a hard time pulling off a decent paint job, when 1. No booth, dry/clean air source and direct good lighting and 2. adverse cold weather. What temp will you be spraying in? Do you have adequate Air delivery? You need it for a metallic . By follow up work , do you mean wet sand and buff? I would like you to be successful. How can I help? :thumbsup:

 

My wagon was done in the guys shop, not a booth. We cleaned the shop real good, hosed the floor down and did it early in the morning before the wind started blowing. There was some dirt in it but most of it buffed out and what is left is hard to see unless you're wiping down the whole car. It is a driver, didn't need it perfect.

 

Much the same here...just want a nice looking driver.

 

I'm assuming it's Willow Green 'Metallic'! If so . . . you definitely want 2 stage!

You can't sand, cut or buff metallics! You cut and buff the clearcoat over them.

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And trying to compare colors on the web is useless!

Every camera is different. Every monitor/screen is different. Each website may have digital differences.

Lighting makes a difference. Sunlight vs. late afternoon vs. flourescent vs. LED, etc.

Spray techniques, gun pressure, humidity and temperature all affect the final color.

I have original color chip books from DuPont and PPG for the same years! Guess what?

A good paint store will have someone who knows how to tweak 'formulas'. A 'computer only' mix guy won't add a 'little of this or that' if you request it.

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Going all new with a certain color in mind is fine. Buy a little extra of the color, in case of screw ups or later touch up/blending.

I've had to touch up or do repairs on custom Harleys, without knowing who painted it, how long ago, what brand paint or the techniques used.

Good luck!

 

Been so long since I actually saw Willow Green on a vehicle I can't say if it's metallic or not...whatever it was in 1965.

 

It's metallic.

 

Hard to ignore the wheels, but yes, that color looks very nice.

 

I’ve done both.... Single stage lacquer and enamel.....
Base/clear is much more forgiving, and goes on better...

 

Rich,
This is Willow Green from a 1965 Sherwin Williams book. In GM paint speak, the code is WA3303. On the label it has different color names but those are for Olds and Pontiac. Same formula. Interesting factoid.. Fender guitars also used the exact GM colors, but renamed them. You can give that Wa number to an auto body supply store and they can mix it from that. I suggest getting it made in PPG's DBC line or Dupont's Chromabase. Both should have good Willow Green. I hope this helps.

 

Thank you Dwayne. :thumbsup:

 

I'm going the single stage solid color route, for a number of reasons.

- DIY job
- Solid color, not metallic
- easier to spray
- I'm a hobbiest, not a pro, so I tend to end up with imperfections in the color coat, which are easier to fix with SS.
- It's not going to be a trailer queen, but get driven, parked in parking lots, etc., meaning there will be dings and dents. Again, easier to repair
- I like the color of a single stage over BC/CC - it looks deeper to me.

 

- I like the color of a single stage over BC/CC - it looks deeper to me.

This is incorrect....a single stage will appear glossier, but lacking in depth compared to the same color B/C.

 

 

That base clear ?

 

Guys...this was 4 years ago.

 

Hello ! Lol
Didn't catch that

 

It was never painted...traded for a Rat Rod which I later heavily modified.

 

Looks stock to me.

 

That was a '47 Chevy cab on a '87 Chevy 1-ton chassis cut down powered by a Cummins diesel...fun ride.

 

Bad ass rat rod!!......paint is so overrated, lol