[Motorhead62]

Brian,

Here is what you need to do:

- Fill the crank case with Rotella 30W oil and use an AC Delco oil filter.

- Dry set the timing as close as possible prior to start up

- Have a timing light handy at start up

- Double check and triple check everything prior to start up

- Use starting fluid in the carb to help start the new engine

- Bust off the new engine, check for oil pressure, set the timing to 12 degrees initial and then set the idle to 2200 RPM or so

- Run the engine at this speed for about 20 minutes, during this time blip the throttle ocassionally (this is the cam break in time, I still do it with roller cams too, force of habit I guess)

- Do a leak check while the engine is in the break in time (if you see big leaks shut the engine down)

- While the engine is running monitor the temp and oil pressure for proper limits (shut down if things look bad - high temp or low pressure)

- Take the car for a spin and drive it for about 15 minutes or so. Occassionaly hit the throttle and wind her up, no more than 5000 RPM.

- Change the oil and filter with the following: Valvoline 20W-50 Racing oil and a Mobil 1 oil filter.

- Enjoy the new stroker!

I hope this helps.

Chris

 

[Motorhead62]

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Yes, you are doing pretty much the same thing but being as it is so easy I would put a bit more time on it before leaning on it too hard & vary the speed & loads during this time.Then go hammer it & see what falls off
If the engine was built properly it should be happy.
If not,,, oh well,,,
I think probably one of the worst things you can do is any kind of steady state loaded or unloaded running when the engine is new.

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And again, I ask the same question,, what magically happens at 500 or 1000 miles?
Does the engine become different?
I don't really care what GM says, I don't build engines like GM does.
I use torque plates on every engine I do so the bores are reasonably round from the start.
The finish I use is pretty well what it will be in 500 or 1000 miles from the start due to the stones & technique I use.

And I have dynoed more than a few GM crate performance engines & they certainly did not have 500 miles on them with no ill effects.

What does a circle track engine not being built for hi mileage have to do with anything?
Do I have to use some different magical formula to build these "different" engines??
What about road race ones? What in your opinion should I do different here :sad:

I do quite a few circle track as well as performance street stuff & I certainly don't change much in them except for compression, cam etc. & this has nothing to do with break-in

So again, explain exactly what in your opinion changes on "break-in" with a well built performance engine?

50 or so years ago you needed to "break-in" rings because the bores as well as the rings were nothing like they are today.
As I earlier stated, if the bores are correctly done the rings are damn near broke in on the starter.

And in case you missed it, as I stated, if you have to go 1000 or even 500 miles before the engine is "broken in" there are a number of folks on just this site that are in deep doo-doo that have made this horrible mistake of leaning on a fresh engine before these magical numbers have been reached

I have to agree with you Mike!

 

[Motorhead62]

I came on baord Team Chevelle in much the same manner you have and these guys were far less gentle with me than they are being with you. I guess we all grow up.

That is the way it is around here!