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replacing quarters off of the frame...

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3.7K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  cromedss  
#1 ·
Hey guys, let me preface this thread directly by saying why Im prefering to have the quarters done off the frame. Im in the middle of doing a narrowed 3 link and as such I have a totally different suspension system going in. Because of how the car was purchased, there was no way get a starting point of where the wheels should sit in relation to the body or the frame. Now I find myself in the position of building the rear suspension blind or at best using other cars as a rough guess (as I have so far getting measurements from).

I was hoping that I could have the quarters done then set the body on the frame and get the wheels centered in the wheelwell then build the rear suspension. I do know its best not to have quarters installed without the frame but am I taking a huge risk even considering this route?

My plan B was to build a temporary suspension with solid mounts for shocks and such in order to get the body on the frame and then build the suspension afterwards.

Im curious what recommendations you guys may have. Im not doing the quarters and my body guy is a bit stumped by my dilema as well. It really is a chicken before the egg type of situation. I dont like the thought of building a finalized suspension without the body as a reference only to do it again later and also dont want to have quarters or other panels that dont fit right cause the body wasnt bolted down.

More or less what would you do? I dont want my suspension nor my body work screwed and do not want to do things over so I gotta make a good decision on this.
 
#2 ·
I'd see if a local member doesn't have a rolling frame that they could loan you temporarily to get the quarter panels installed. I think you'd have all sorts of problems trying to get the body good and straight by installing the quarter panels with the body off the frame.
 
#4 ·
Guys... Yes you car replace your quarters with the body off the frame !!!! We do it all the time .. You just need to make sure the body is sitting on some jack stands . Around 6 will do .. Front rocker,rear rocker, and rear trunk floor .. Make sure it is sitting on all 6 stands good .. This will help keep this body in line.. Now you can cut the quartes off and install your new ones. If the body needs to be moved around for shop to shop or in and out of your shop . You can build a body stand with wheels to mount the body like it sitting on the frame .. This will work to ..

If you need to see one being done go to www.mikescustomcars.com and look under projects .. We have a 70 Chevelle off the frame having all the metal work being done.

Mike's Custom Cars
1-803-329-2835
www.mikescustomcars.com
mikeriggs@mikescustomcars
 
#5 ·
I have experience at all, so take this with a grain of salt...

But it seems that if you carefully supported the body at the body mount locations in some sort of welded jig... Carefully setting them at the appropriate level.... How would the body know it wasn't on the frame?
 
#6 ·
Although that would be a great setup, building it would be well beyond the time and money worth it to just bolt on the frame.

I do have the option of bolting it to the frame as is and sending it off on a smaller rolling frame suitable for just transporting it. Truthfully thats another option I didnt really consider and may give it more thought.

I really dont want to take the chance doing the quarters off the frame. It can be done but going to the moon can be done as well. Im not implying ho Ive chose to do my quarters doesnt know what hes doing by any shot but Im making the point that just cause something can be done doesnt mean that everyone can nor is it the most economical way to go.

I left it out but considering it was brought up as a spot to support the body, the rear of the rockers (so pretty much the full rocker) needs to be replaced. Sadly this is not due to rust but due to a hack that enlarged the wheel wells via metal rod, bondo and aluminum flashing. This is why I couldnt mark off the bod or the frame since the suspension had been changed and I couldnt trust it either.

I think your posts have sparked my own ideas and Im going to see what I can do about building a rolling frame to go under the body AND the attatched frame. This way I dont need suspension and I dont have to worry about the body tweeking.

Thanks guys you helped me figure out what I think is the best way to do it
 
#7 ·
If you build a cart, build one to factory frame specs and be done with it. If your cart has a few mounting points located at factory specs you dont need to have the frame under it.
GM didnt have the frame under these cars during assembly they were under jigs.

I do agree major sheetmetal should be done with the frame attached, but if you have a jig that replaces the frame spec wise the body wont know the difference. Plus sheetmetal repair would be so much easier...Eric
 
#13 ·
Ive looked at your site when you had announced the fiberglass rear seat and I am blown away at what type of crap you start with and how it ends lol. Being in CA a car in the typical condition you start with would be crushed without question. Great work, you and your team are definitely craftsmen.

Now on to my situation. The car is on a body cart right now but the trunk area isnt supported. Right now it would be really simple to build a temporary square frame with casters that is tacked to the bottom of the actual frame. Then I can get the body back on the frame and bolt it down without having to obtain a secondary frame or spend time and money building a much more complicated body cart that bolts to the stock locations (although if time, money and weather werent limiting options I would happily do it).

I get something made and post it up, I figure now that its winter time and I dont want to work in the shop and more than I have to I can get the sublet stuff taken care of and come springtime I can start knocking things out. I wish my building had lower insulated ceilings so I could heat it somewhat but with a 5k sq ft concrete tiltup with no insulation its impossible to heat it and in turn makes it miserable to work. I have no ambition to freeze after working and freezing all day on other guys cars.

Stay tuned Ill get something knocked out in the next week or so.
 
#14 ·
Ive looked at your site when you had announced the fiberglass rear seat and I am blown away at what type of crap you start with and how it ends lol. Being in CA a car in the typical condition you start with would be crushed without question. Great work, you and your team are definitely craftsmen.

Now on to my situation. The car is on a body cart right now but the trunk area isnt supported. Right now it would be really simple to build a temporary square frame with casters that is tacked to the bottom of the actual frame. Then I can get the body back on the frame and bolt it down without having to obtain a secondary frame or spend time and money building a much more complicated body cart that bolts to the stock locations (although if time, money and weather werent limiting options I would happily do it).

I get something made and post it up, I figure now that its winter time and I dont want to work in the shop and more than I have to I can get the sublet stuff taken care of and come springtime I can start knocking things out. I wish my building had lower insulated ceilings so I could heat it somewhat but with a 5k sq ft concrete tiltup with no insulation its impossible to heat it and in turn makes it miserable to work. I have no ambition to freeze after working and freezing all day on other guys cars.

Stay tuned Ill get something knocked out in the next week or so.

Thanks Matt for the nice words about my work !!!! I do 99% of all the work here . It's just me and one part time guys doing it all ...

If you are just doing one body . Get some 2" x 2" x .083 tubing and make you a body cart with wheels (Like you have). Make it about 5' wide and around 11' long . Make you some mounts coming up off of it about every 2' . Just weld the mount to the body shell . Making the cart and body as one . Do your metal work and cut the body back off of the cart .

As for freezing ... Run down to Lowes and pick you up a 170,000 - 200,000 BTU Readyhearter..They are about $ 300 . These are good for 5,000 + SF buildings. We have 3 here we run in the body shop .

Good luck on your project !!!

Thanks,
MCC