yep its a bare block better dress it lol
yes it is a nice looking block.

 

She will be dressed in some of the finest 4340 soon.:yes:

 

Mike,

Very nice block. Looks like you are going to have a lot of fun with this!!

 

vroom, vroo m, vroom, vroo m. The roaring sound made by a motor at high speed.:yes:

 

I have not got my hands on a Dart SHP block yet

Whats nice is the price and did you see it is clearanced for the rod/rod bolts. Usually with 400 blocks or aluminum rod engines the rod or bolt will come close to just under the oil pan area - Its already clearanced for you !!!!!!!!!!

 

Did you also notice, no steam holes?

 

well thats a good thing? right. then the heads wont need to be drilled.

 

are the NPT holes hosed up like on the Big M? Room for the distributor gear?

Let us know how this goes, it'll be interesting to compare to the Big M.

Lifter bores tight?

main bore tight?

NPT holes have straight threads, won't take NPT fittings, only thread in about 2 turns?

What's the deck height and bore size like?

 

We have shipped a few of those blocks and the lifter bores were right in the middle of the spec, main lines we in spec but off a few tenths and we get them all to size, All the pipe plug holes have to be tapped deeper. The decks are pretty close to 9.025 and the 4.000 bore block is .005 under and the same with the 4.125 bore blocks.

We have one going to Wisconsin that the cam tunnel will be bored for 50MM roller bearings and set up for a dry sump.

In this link there is some good info. on the SHP block and some good info on cam bearings.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12112

 

Great, now everyone knows my penmanship sucks LOL. I wonder if anyone will miss the thermostat bypass ommission on the Dart block?

A smart man buys a quality block, a REAL man overbores it .030" right away. The cylinder walls are uber thick, there ain`t no steam holes cause they replaced them with cast iron. They recommend no more than .040, I wouldn`t hesitate going .060 personally. I have a sneaky suspicion that it would swallow a 3.875 crank with minimal clearancing. I`m looking forward to actually being able to use ARP moly on the head bolts rather than sealer.

More pics to follow, parts coming from the Southern British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, and Ohio. Isky solid lifters to be ordered from Michigan later on.

BTW Mr. O`Hearn, your PM box is full.

 

Great, now everyone knows my penmanship sucks LOL. I wonder if anyone will miss the thermostat bypass ommission on the Dart block?

A smart man buys a quality block, a REAL man overbores it .030" right away. The cylinder walls are uber thick, there ain`t no steam holes cause they replaced them with cast iron. They recommend no more than .040, I wouldn`t hesitate going .060 personally. I have a sneaky suspicion that it would swallow a 3.875 crank with minimal clearancing. I`m looking forward to actually being able to use ARP moly on the head bolts rather than sealer.

More pics to follow, parts coming from the Southern British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, and Ohio. Isky solid lifters to be ordered from Michigan later on.

BTW Mr. O`Hearn, your PM box is full.

=
You have mail

 

lets us know how it goes I might just go big sbc for the velle next winter.

 

I really like the Dart blocks, they are worth every penny IMO.
Good stuff!! Make sure and douche the water jackets out REAL well, on my Little M I got tons of stuff out of there both shavings and where the freee plugs were punched through.

Main caps and water jackets on these....:thumbsup:

 

MMMMMMMMMMMM!

Dart Iron!

I LOVE Dart iron!

Good luck with it.


Randy

 

Some more kool parts arrived today.
AFR 195 Street Heads, Scorpion 1.5 x 7/16 Stud Roller Rockers and Comp Cams 288TLS-6 Solid Tappet ADVERTISED 288in 296ex / @ .050” 259in 266ex / Lift .550in .570ex 106º

Thanks rustbucket79, nice pictures for sure.
I'm thinking you are having as much fun as I am on this build:beers:
More parts and pictures coming. This going to be a good solid build.
And you guys at TC have been a fantastic help..:thumbsup: Thank You..

 

Shhh, don't tell these guys we engine builders enjoy our jobs, they won't want to pay us labour.

I was blown away with the Scorpion rocker arms, they rate them to 950 pounds spring pressure and when you see the size of the bodies you'll see why. Extremely nice for the price.

I am seriously looking forward to working with your parts and pieces, but even more exciting is the anticipation of what it will accomplish on the dyno. The heads are a work of art, the block is a fortress, and I know from past experience that the Comp 288 tight lash cam has magical properties.

 

Shhh, don't tell these guys we engine builders enjoy our jobs, they won't want to pay us labour.

I was blown away with the Scorpion rocker arms, they rate them to 950 pounds spring pressure and when you see the size of the bodies you'll see why. Extremely nice for the price.

I am seriously looking forward to working with your parts and pieces, but even more exciting is the anticipation of what it will accomplish on the dyno. The heads are a work of art, the block is a fortress, and I know from past experience that the Comp 288 tight lash cam has magical properties.

Doug, Thats what i thought {darn huge body}

Doug, do you think they will clear a 1.64" O.D Manley NexTek spring? How does the relief look?

Mike, You got some nice parts! That cam is like a copy cat of ours with a little more lift, I would install the Intake Centerline @ 103° being its a 106° lobe seperation

Mike or Doug, Are you considering a Timing Chain like this below from Comp or Cloyes? The Cloyes is about the same but has 3 key ways on the crank, The Comp has one key way but the cam gears are almost identical, 12° of adjustment

 

Just an FYI Summit brand Aluminum rockers are made by Scorpion. I had ordered a set from Scorpion and they sent me 1.8 exh and 1.7 int so I ordered Summit brand in the 1.7 and got them before I sent back the scorpions and they were the exact same rocker.

 

I believe rustbucket79 is installing a Cloyes true roller timing set.
http://www.cloyes.com/HighPerforman...rformance/Products/OriginalTrueRollerSets/tabid/179/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Unless a better deal is found.

.

 

Mike, just to give you an idea here is a link to that timing chain at Jeg's

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/8100/10002/-1

 

The relief isn't huge, but according to their website http://scorpionperformance.com/newsite1/scorpion.php?category_id=1 they're set up to clear a 1.625 spring, I wouldn't think another .0075" would make a difference.

Timing set estimated was a normal Cloyes true roller set. Yes the adjustable sets are nice, we've used their hex ad just sets a few times, but for the application he doesn't need anything more. It's easy to consider parts upgrades but most often budget controls parts choice. We'd all like to afford belt drives, billet cranks, aluminum blocks, but paycheques only go so far. Mike can step up to the billet set if he upgrades to a solid roller down the road.

 

The relief isn't huge, but according to their website http://scorpionperformance.com/newsite1/scorpion.php?category_id=1 they're set up to clear a 1.625 spring, I wouldn't think another .0075" would make a difference.

Timing set estimated was a normal Cloyes true roller set. Yes the adjustable sets are nice, we've used their hex ad just sets a few times, but for the application he doesn't need anything more. It's easy to consider parts upgrades but most often budget controls parts choice. We'd all like to afford belt drives, billet cranks, aluminum blocks, but paycheques only go so far. Mike can step up to the billet set if he upgrades to a solid roller down the road.

Only reason i mentioned it is our 406 only like 3° advance and with a normal timing set that is hard to do plus that Comp 8100 is dead on when you have a good block

 

That sounds like a real nice buildup you got going there would like to follow along. :beers:

 

Can we buy it in ductile iron so that it will hold up to 2500 hp?

pdq67

Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

We were going to use the stock AFR springs.

 

Please, again.

Can we buy a Dart SB block cast out of ductile iron so that it will hold up to 2500 hp?

pdq67

Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

Here you go pdq: http://www.dartheads.com/products/chevy-aluminum-billet-small-block.html or if need be you could probably get the Iron Eagle cast in CGI material if you have the cash.

Planning on building a 2500 HP small block in the future?

Mike, what colour are we painting it?

 

I really like this colour CAST, but in some kind of clear coat to let the frost plugs stay there natural colour.

This is my 355 currenty hidding out in the engine bay. Painted a orange/red.
Black is out of the question, for this new build.

I don't know if there is a clear coat that would stand up as a high heat paint with out turning some kind of yellow.

 

I painted my engine "cast iron" colour, kind of a dark metallic colour. (darker than the top pic) I have a pic of that at work I can shoot off to you in a week or so. The clear coat issue, maybe someone here knows of a brand of clear coat that doesn't colour over time. Of course, we could always paint the heads block colour as well if you don't want to deal with them oxidizing over time. Once you decide on the pan, I'll need to know if you want it painted block colour or left original colour.

 

Don't rreally like the black. A dark Orange almost red is nice.
But back to the cast colour and pan issue. Not sure if there would be a heat issue with the cast colour vs black vs dark Orange almost red .
I like what 66 Buick Special "TC" user has going on with his pan selection and colour's for both the pan and block. This is the pan I think we should use for the build. Have to look up this pan for stroker clearance.

The lastest pictures of the crank are on my system at home. When I bet back I will post them. Again Thanks Doug. Have a Fantastic trip.

 

Mike, That cast color does look good, I have used it

How about Cast Aluminum Color? They have that also

Note: I install all my freeze plugs after the engine has been painted, of couse their is some fine touch up work to do unless you buy a set of those freeze plug installers from powerhouse products

 

Yes thats a good idea to install the freeze plugs after the block is painted.
Hope they are brass in colour..

 

trmnatr, do you think there is any power to be gained by notching the tops of the cylinder bores? The notching offers a smoother transition from the chamber into the bore.

 

Mike, Just as Doug said. Notching or Chamfering the cylinder depends. You put the head on the bare block your using and mark the head drivers side and passenger side and draw the bore on the deck of the head from the underside and remove the head snd see where the bore sits in relation to the chamber

 

Plugs will be brass regardless, installed post painting.
Bores should already be larger than the head chambers, according to AFR's flow chart, they are designed for a 4" bore. I'll do a trial install on the block and have a look for chamber overhang.

The heat/paint colour is a non issue IMHO. We used a cherry red engine paint only rated to 250 degrees, still looks great after 3 seasons.

 

:thumbsup: your the man..:hurray:

 

Crankshaft came in on friday.
Scat 4340 forged std weight crank, 3.75 stroke.

 

Mike,

Very nice!! Who's damper is that?

 

Mike, Dumb question. Did you go with 350 mains? The only reason i ask as i have seen less journal wear with small journal 327 cranks over large journal 350 cranks and I have also seen better bearing wear on 406's that use smaller 350 mains, I prefer a 2" rod pin {small journal} any time i can