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mitro67

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
New to this site.. i have a 67 chevelle. Alston non adjustable lower control arms single adjustable uppers. Had moog stock springs switched to Eibach lowering springs with air bag in passenger side. 9" rear end out of a bronco or something with the ears welded on from old rear end... Shocks are edelbrock IAS.

The problem i am having is the passenger of car in the rear end sits about a 1" higher then the driver side. this also cuases the driver side front to sit lower then the passneger side front..Front has moroso drag springs. It was the same with the stock springs as the eibach springs. The control arms have rubber bushings. I am thinking that the passenger upper may be in a slight bind.. i have tried lowering rear end with shocks undone and passenger side sits lower then driver side. Also treid having front end up and off tires to see if the front suspension is infuenceing rear susp. it is still crooked.

Has anyone tried putting spherical bushings in a street/Strip car on the upper ears of rear end for the control arms? and would this help the problem? Any other feedback would be appreciated. I am looking at the TRZ spherical bushings they said they have a teflon lining on them that help with wear...

thanks

Corey
 
Don't give up and have patience. 50 views just means 50 people looked but don't have an answer.
Everyone doesn't know everything about a Chevelle. I can answer some questions but not about rear's.
 
For what it's worth, my 66 is slightly higher on the pass side, especially at the rear.

It had some 3 in spacers under the springs, on top of the axle pad. It has some rubber blocks in the left rear, but it still sags.

I actually removed the spacers last night and it lowered it a bit too much, imho. The pass side is still higher than the drivers side.

I am going to try a 1 in block of wood under the drivers side to see if that evens it up.

Also bought new rear springs from Ground Up today in the hope of a permanent fix.

Mine may have rusted body braces letting the body sag on one side. I plan to get under there and measure the frame and body to check that.

With your setup, I would go and measure a lot, ie, frame to ground, body to ground, etc, before trying to adjust it. It could be that someone put a stiffer, taller spring in the right rear to help starting line traction. The addition of a 9 in makes that seem possible.

Assuming the frame and such is straight, perhaps new springs or a spacer under the low side would correct it.
 
Have a frame shop check the frame.

They can determine if the frame is straight and if the suspension is sagging someplace.

It is common for the cars to be lower on one side or the other.
If the frame checks out you can install spacers on top of the springs on the low side to raise it up a little. Remember, in the front you will get lift about two times spacer thickness. Back is one to one.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
thanks good advice.. about checking frame.. i have tried two different springs and its still higher on the passenger side.. it does appear that the passenger upper rear control arm is in a little bit of a bind on the ear of the rear end.. thats why i was thinking of the spherical bushings.. i will check the frame out.

For what it's worth, my 66 is slightly higher on the pass side, especially at the rear.

It had some 3 in spacers under the springs, on top of the axle pad. It has some rubber blocks in the left rear, but it still sags.

I actually removed the spacers last night and it lowered it a bit too much, imho. The pass side is still higher than the drivers side.

I am going to try a 1 in block of wood under the drivers side to see if that evens it up.

Also bought new rear springs from Ground Up today in the hope of a permanent fix.

Mine may have rusted body braces letting the body sag on one side. I plan to get under there and measure the frame and body to check that.

With your setup, I would go and measure a lot, ie, frame to ground, body to ground, etc, before trying to adjust it. It could be that someone put a stiffer, taller spring in the right rear to help starting line traction. The addition of a 9 in makes that seem possible.

Assuming the frame and such is straight, perhaps new springs or a spacer under the low side would correct it.
 
I would agree with the frame shop idea from verle, and rkd. Has the car everbeen in a crash or has anyone cut or welded on the frame?
I don't see how spherical ends would fix the problem.
If you are going to spend money I would make sure I had a set of matching springs front and rear that have the appropriate spring rate.
 
park it on level ground and measure everything.
it could just be worn out body bushings or something like that.
 
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