[70 nialator]

Latest 70 Chevelle upgrade

 

[joerob727]

Looks like a very clean set-up.

Whose are they? Got a part #?

 

[70 nialator]

Thank you ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170765795377?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Everything fit great, I had to weld the tabs for the hard lines because there is no room for the provided hose type clamps but I have a welder so no big deal. REALLY nice kit for 350.00.
Also purchased an adjustable proportioning valve (separately) to dial them in.

Need to wipe it all down, cleaned out the garage and dust is all over everything now....

 

[chrispicide35]

I have a couple questions if you don't mind.
1.could this be done with the rear end still in the car?
2.do you have to pull the axles for any reason?
if one did not want to save the drum backing plates they could be torched off right.

 

[70 nialator]

Don't mind at all
1. YES
2. YES
Backing plates are for dust restriction and to keep foreign debris out of the brakes. I can't think of any (none I have seen) drum brakes have them. Disks don't "need" them either. If you are talking about the rear plate the houses the wheel cylinder for the drum's and has all the spring mounts, then yes you need that....

 

[riskyvt]

I'm looking to do something like this on my '71 Mule. Would these rear brakes still fit inside a 15" wheel?

 

[70 nialator]

They are supposed to and they better because that's what I'm running right now. I'll confirm later today after she's back in.

 

[chrispicide35]

Would these rear brakes still fit inside a 15" wheel?

They are supposed to and they better because that's what I'm running right now. I'll confirm later today after she's back in.

This was a concern i had as well, i will be waiting to hear.

Talking about the baking plates i was referring to the drum backing plates. i would prefer not to have to pull the axles to remove these, so i would saw or torch them off.

70 nialator: let us know if your master cylinder works ok with the new setup, i remember hearing there are different masters for drum/drum, disc/drum and disc/disc.

 

[70 nialator]

If you have power front disks brakes now the master cylinder you have should be fine. You will however need a proportioning valve, adjustable preferably (please see above)

I can CONFIRM that 15 inch wheels do work with this kit.

Still not exactly sure what you are talking about as far as the backing plates. The axels will need to come out. It's easy and you could probably use new fluid and a new seal anyway. It can be done in the car.... I just wanted to clean things up and have it out the way. Battery is in the trunk and wanted to secure the cables better and stuff.

I'm also a fairly large man... if you are going to attempt this I suggest you bring a friend, getting it out is easy (gravity) back in.. not so much

 

[Schurkey]

Notice how, unlike the engineering done by GM, who assured that there's iron to support the caliper in the MIDDLE, so the caliper won't twist on it's mount, THOSE caliper brackets only support the caliper on the inboard side of the rotor?

Not the best engineering. Torque loads are going to twist the caliper in the bracket.

Gonna make life hell for those long caliper mounting bolts.

I hope you have good insurance.

 

[joerob727]

Hey Darren,

Thanks for posting all the info and pics.

Nice work and thanks again,

Joe

 

[350_Malibu]

Notice how, unlike the engineering done by GM, who assured that there's iron to support the caliper in the MIDDLE, so the caliper won't twist on it's mount, THOSE caliper brackets only support the caliper on the inboard side of the rotor?

Not the best engineering. Torque loads are going to twist the caliper in the bracket.

Gonna make life hell for those long caliper mounting bolts.

I hope you have good insurance.

If they were front brakes, I might agree. However, the rears don't take near the abuse of the fronts.

 

[Ray Gasser]

Are those calipers and brackets from CPP?

 

[Ray Gasser]

If they are; PM me and I will give you some personal insight (funny story I guess, just kinda expensive when I destroyed the rears) then went back to drum rear.
Ray

 

[Philip]

Notice how, unlike the engineering done by GM, who assured that there's iron to support the caliper in the MIDDLE, so the caliper won't twist on it's mount, THOSE caliper brackets only support the caliper on the inboard side of the rotor?

Not the best engineering. Torque loads are going to twist the caliper in the bracket.

Gonna make life hell for those long caliper mounting bolts.

I hope you have good insurance.

I agree and they will also chatter under hard braking. If you dial down the pressure then they are nothing more than "pretty".

Here is a photo of the GM bracket I used. It supports the caliper over the center of the rotor against the rotational force from braking.

The other draw back with that style caliper is the parking brake. It has to be used to keep the pads adjusted to the proper clearance and it does not hold a parked vehicle very well.

They do fit under 15" wheels and IMO the vendors are selling them cheap right now as they know it is out dated technology.

I have changed the rear discs in the Nova to late model GM type but had to go with 17" wheels to run them. Car stops better from both the better brakes and the better tires available in the larger size.

 

[70 nialator]

Well…. I do have good insurance and if they suck I’ll be disappointed but I changed them once and I’ll do it again if they are not what I want. I know several others with the same set up and no problems, we’ll see. I’ll make sure to do my testing far from others and obstacles just in case.

 

[70caminoman]

Let me know what you think of that kit and would you advocate buying a front conversion kit from them based on what you bought? I mean its so inexpensive I winder if a front kit from them would be ****ty.

 

[70 nialator]

I can tell you the rear kit went on like a breeze and the plate that holds the caliper is stupid thick, but I can see everyone's concern as well. There is a lot of metal hanging off of it that is going to have to endure some pretty extreme forces. Like you said for 350.00 it's worth a shot for me, IT'S NOT worth wrecking the car or hurting anyone though. I drive hard and they will be thoroughly tested before I put anyone else, myself or the car in dangers way...... As I (and EVERYONE) should do after messing with something that STOPS your car

 

[Philip]

Darren give it a try and see if it works with your driving style. There are lots of cars with the exact same rear brake package, it was a common upgrade. You now know the short comings of the set up and can watch for any trouble they might cause. The bracket issue could be solved by welding a supporting piece to the mounting plate.
I drive my car hard and even though the GM brackets held the caliper securely the calipers had problems inherent to the design. Keeping the pads adjusted, the park brake holding issues and leaking around the park brake shaft were the ones I experienced.
I do not think there would be a complete failure of the rear brakes, if so there would be talk of it in the many forums I frequent.
Last time the caliper started seeping around the park brake shaft seal I was 700 miles from home and made it back safely without a large loss of brake fluid. Under heavy braking the warning light would come indicating unequal pressure, but no loss in braking was felt.

 

[70 nialator]

As always, I really appreciate everyone's input and advice. Knowing what others have experienced is kind of what this site is all about. Experience is invaluable, and I soak it all in, both negative and positive. I have a welder and support brackets are not an issue if that is what is required. Almost EVERY aftermarket part I have purchased....and most factory ones too for that matter.... have needed a little Darren love.