[Tod]

Hi All-

I'm close to having a company change my 66' into a pro street car (balk half); don't worry, my 66' is not a matching numbers car and the trunk is somewhat rusted as are the frame/bushing mounts in the rear.

This will be a STREET CAR only, no racing (well, maybe once a year for fun), I'm thinking ladder bar set-up, coil over shocks, six point cage (from the front seats back), ford 9 inch, disc brakes, 16 gal. fuel cell with sendimng unit. Steel tubs and flooring. I have a M-20 four speed with a VortecPro 475ci engine.

Can you think of any questions I should ask the guy concerning the work he'll be doing? Just looking for some good advice before I jump into this.

What would you ask the builder before you took your car in for this type of work? I'm sure getting everything in writing and both agreeing on the work and price, but what else? Anything associated with Pro Street cars I should be aware of?

Thanks Everyone :beers:

 

[66SSFan]

You might try the Pro Street forum for some opinions, sounds like a cool project:thumbsup:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=64

 

[Derek69SS]

Just looking for some good advice before I jump into this.

Best advice anyone can give you is "don't do it"... back-halfing a car destroys its value. You're much better off buying one that's already done if you really want a pro-streeter. You can probably find a whole car that's done for less than it will cost you to have it done. There is a VERY limited market for tubbed cars, and the prices reflect that. :yes:

 

[bbm]

Think about a back half with 4-link and antiroll bar and mini tubs. The antiroll will make it drive on the street much better. Mini tubs will allow a 10-12" slick or put a big prostreet radial tire on it with say a 20X14 wheel with the rear end narrow enough to have a deep reverse on the wheel and still fill the wheel well,and still have room for a back seat.

 

[cobaltchev67]

Why not just have them narrow the frame 2" and do mini-tubs? If it's a street car, you don't need to go to the extreme to fit a 12" tire under it....plus like someone else said, lots of $$$ spent for a special purpose car that doesn't do that special purpose. Probably worth less as well

 

[kaljam]

I love pro street cars and would love to add one to my collection and would never try to talk somebody out of building one, but this is something to think about. I insured my 72 SS 454 for $30000 thru one of these classic car insurers. If I remember correctly any vehicle with an altered chassis could not be insured by most of these companies. So if you are sinking lots of money into a prostreet car (very likely) this is something to look into. I could be wrong but I'm just throwin it out there.
Bill

 

[rkd]

I vote with the don't do it crowd.

If you want to go fast, ie, build a race car, that's one thing.

Not to be too tacky, but while I love to see nicely built cars at cruise nights and shows, I am not impressed with tubbed out cars with lots of money spent, but that don't have the battery switch or proper harnesses, or other stuff, etc, etc to go down a track as quickly as they look. Most guys seem to not go to tracks after the first time because they are disappointed in their times.

From my current street/strip toy, a rolling tin box with dumped super 40s, 4.10 gears, drag radials, manual steering, the last thing I want is another highly modded car. I love my hot rod, but it's not fun to drive over a few miles. It is quicker that a lot of much nicer, more expensive cars.

I would go with good upgrades to stock stuff. Just my $.02.

 

[Tod]

Thanks for the advice; this was exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Chris R]

If you already have to cut up the rear floors to replace all the pans. Why not backhalf the frame too. I have always been a fan of pro street cars personally. But I couldnt bring myself to cut up a car that was too nice. Ever heard the saying. Any man can restore a car, it takes a real man to cut one up. I remember seeing those stickers on pro street cars when I was a kid.

 

[Tod]

If you already have to cut up the rear floors to replace all the pans. Why not backhalf the frame too. I have always been a fan of pro street cars personally. But I couldnt bring myself to cut up a car that was too nice. Ever heard the saying. Any man can restore a car, it takes a real man to cut one up. I remember seeing those stickers on pro street cars when I was a kid.

That's funny Chris That's why I was thinking Pro Street, trunk and other areas need new metal anyway. I've been looking for a 66-67 back half roller on ebay and Racing Junk.com but having little luck. Thats why I was thinking about just doing my car.....new engine, new interior, good paint. However, as always after seeking opinions here, now I'm still not sure what to do???? Lot's of valid points made on this thread.

 

[sg5492]

Best advice anyone can give you is "don't do it"... back-halfing a car destroys its value. You're much better off buying one that's already done if you really want a pro-streeter. You can probably find a whole car that's done for less than it will cost you to have it done. There is a VERY limited market for tubbed cars, and the prices reflect that. :yes:

I agree :yes: a lot of people told me not to turn my 1987 Monte Carlo SS in to a pro street car that I could buy one that was already done for a lot less than I would have in mine. The way my car is setting right now I have $20k in it (and it's not done). A Lot of the money I put in a nasty small block Chevy with all top of the line parts and a trans that can hold it.

Now I'll tell you the dumb part of it. Before I started on my Monte I bought a 70 Chevelle pro street that was needing finishing. I paid $4,300 for it in 1993, it was just a rolling car needing body, paint and a lot of little things, but the interior was done. I had it for about a year, tried to do some body work to it my self (it looked OK for my first time). I never really got in to doing much else with it. I Had a guy stop by and offer me $5,500 for it and I sold it

Now looking back ($20,000 later) if I would have put around $10,000 in it I would have had a killer 70 pro street Chevelle and $10,000 more in the bank

If you do go head and do your car, I would say go with the 4 link and also spend the money for a Anti-Roll & a Track Locator.

Add up what you think you might spend on your set up and look around at the pro street cars out there for sale. There's a lot of nice pro street cars/trucks out there for $25,000 or less. Just my .02

 

[Chris R]

I agree :yes: a lot of people told me not to turn my 1987 Monte Carlo SS in to a pro street car that I could buy one that was already done for a lot less than I would have in mine. The way my car is setting right now I have $20k in it (and it's not done). A Lot of the money I put in a nasty small block Chevy with all top of the line parts and a trans that can hold it.

Now I'll tell you the dumb part of it. Before I started on my Monte I bought a 70 Chevelle pro street that was needing finishing. I paid $4,300 for it in 1993, it was just a rolling car needing body, paint and a lot of little things, but the interior was done. I had it for about a year, tried to do some body work to it my self (it looked OK for my first time). I never really got in to doing much else with it. I Had a guy stop by and offer me $5,500 for it and I sold it

Now looking back ($20,000 later) if I would have put around $10,000 in it I would have had a killer 70 pro street Chevelle and $10,000 more in the bank

If you do go head and do your car, I would say go with the 4 link and also spend the money for a Anti-Roll & a Track Locator.

Add up what you think you might spend on your set up and look around at the pro street cars out there for sale. There's a lot of nice pro street cars/trucks out there for $25,000 or less. Just my .02

I agree and have noticed the same thing. I have seen many tubbed cars that would have cost much less then you could build it. Although I would make sure you look closely at the fab and welding work before purchase though.