i just install new single piston calpiers, brake pads, and the pads on the out side is loose. did i install the calipers wrong? it looks like the pad can move around a 1/8 inch. is that bad? also can you put the caliper in backwards, it looks like they only can go one way, with the piston on the inside of the brake rotor.
questions about installing new brakes?
1969_elcamino
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i just install new single piston calpiers, brake pads, and the pads on the out side is loose. did i install the calipers wrong? it looks like the pad can move around a 1/8 inch. is that bad? also can you put the caliper in backwards, it looks like they only can go one way, with the piston on the inside of the brake rotor.
A dumb question: Have you connected the lines, bled them and tried the brakes yet? The pistons on new calipers are usually pushed all the way in when you buy them, so 1/8" with dry calipers sounds normal. If you look at the bolts, you'll see sleeves that allows the caliper to slide and center itself once you apply the brakes.
They will only go on one way, but you can install them on the wrong side of the car. If the bleeders are at the top, you have them installed right.
They will only go on one way, but you can install them on the wrong side of the car. If the bleeders are at the top, you have them installed right.
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thank you
the bleeders are on top and i have not bleed them yet. so it sounds like i do the job right. cool
the bleeders are on top and i have not bleed them yet. so it sounds like i do the job right. cool
You are referring to the fact the outboard is "loose" in its mount correct? There are two tabs on either side of the pad that need to be hammered down, I usually test fit them off the car so that they fit just tight enough to need a pair of pliers to set in place. You can also use a prybar between the pad and hub to raise the pad up and hammer them down with a small hammer. These are the anti-rattle tabs, if left loose they will cause noise in the form of a brake squeak.
Hey Denny,
Can you post a close-up pick of those tabs? I've never done that in the centuries I've been replacing front brake pads and maybe it's time for an old dog (an some young ones) to learn a new trick from someone that does it for a living. In fact, I recently replaced the pads twice on my P/U and they still have a slight squeal even after I used factory pads and anti-squeal goop. I puled a set of new pads from NAPA off thinking it was the type of pads causing the slight squeal. I used black RTV on the backs of them. It has always worked before.
I guarantee you that most people don't do that or know that trick.
Can you post a close-up pick of those tabs? I've never done that in the centuries I've been replacing front brake pads and maybe it's time for an old dog (an some young ones) to learn a new trick from someone that does it for a living. In fact, I recently replaced the pads twice on my P/U and they still have a slight squeal even after I used factory pads and anti-squeal goop. I puled a set of new pads from NAPA off thinking it was the type of pads causing the slight squeal. I used black RTV on the backs of them. It has always worked before.
I guarantee you that most people don't do that or know that trick.
Don't feel bad, Herb. I have worked on cars as a hobby for almost 30 years, and didn't know about those tabs until quite rescently. Probably because I never read instructions.
I have never used them, but on the other hand, I have never had a problem with them either as I usually put a dab of anti squeal compound or silicone on my pads. I'll look at my latest installation this weekend though, maybe it's time to start doing it right.
I have never used them, but on the other hand, I have never had a problem with them either as I usually put a dab of anti squeal compound or silicone on my pads. I'll look at my latest installation this weekend though, maybe it's time to start doing it right.
Sometimes they fit okay out of the box. Most times they dont. GM is not the only one who does this either. The older Mopars and Fords did too, and were more difficult to bend. Cavaliers have little ears sticking out of holes in the outer casting and they're a pain to bend too.
Sorry about the poor quality. I stole the pic and tried to draw on it, but you get the idea... I hope...
![Image]()
Sorry about the poor quality. I stole the pic and tried to draw on it, but you get the idea... I hope...
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hmmmmm.....I've always installed the anti-rattle clips but never done any bending or hammering to get em in. Notice they were never there on the OEM pieces but always supplied with replacement parts.
Anyhow, good to know.
Anyhow, good to know.
Sorry no pics, I haven't done brakes on an old Chevy in years. The channel lock method works pretty good, the best way is to pre-fit them. It takes a little practice but you'll know when it's right. Just lightly hammer the tabs down until they just barley won't fit in the caliper, then use some channel locks to force them in. That way they fit nice and tight--no need for silicone or RTV or anti-squeak junk.
If you hammer them down too far just use your channel locks to open them up a little.
If you hammer them down too far just use your channel locks to open them up a little.
On the GMs I just use channel locks after I have them installed.
The factory GM disc brakes Did come with an anti-rattle clip for the inner pad. It clips on with finger force and was factory installed on single piston calipers.
The bending of the tabs or 'ears' to fit the outer brake pad snugly onto the caliper is specified in many GM service manuals and/or bulletins. Aftermarket and GM pads are no different with regard to this.
The very early discs had a deep groove in the rotor to help keep the pad from wandering.
The factory GM disc brakes Did come with an anti-rattle clip for the inner pad. It clips on with finger force and was factory installed on single piston calipers.
The bending of the tabs or 'ears' to fit the outer brake pad snugly onto the caliper is specified in many GM service manuals and/or bulletins. Aftermarket and GM pads are no different with regard to this.
The very early discs had a deep groove in the rotor to help keep the pad from wandering.
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