FWIW, I put the same kit in my '65 about a year ago. since then a new AGR box and pump and some new hoses. Everyhting was a perfect fit. the steering shaft does limit how many shims you can put in that side for the alignment, but didn't turn out to be much of a problem.
I had no idea this car could handle this good! definitely a nice kit, and good fit of all the parts. I hope Tom likes it as much as I do.
A tip for removing the upper control arm mounting bolts: Run the nut out flush to the end of the bolt (this keeps the theads nice) While prying against the nut/bolt (it helps to have a 2nd person do this) take you air hammer & "rattle" the frame bracket (dont go hog wild here - just an easy squeezy on the air hammer trigger!) around the bolt head. The bolt will slide out without destroying the knurl.
I am intrested to know it the poly bushings squeak.
lo, after these many moons, I'm back. Thanks go to Zack @ P-S-T.com for being patient.
Here we are going back together. A glitch arose here, on both sides. These are not the same LCAs I pulled out and I had a hard time to re-install them. Theoretically all the LCAs would be the same, but the new arms with the new bushings were too wide to fit in the mounts. I was working alone, had a good floor jack but couldn't get the arms to slide up into the brackets. After much struggling and swearing I used the Large Ford Tool to "adjust" outer ears of the brackets a little, then the LCAs mounted up with just the usual struggle. A little of the nice new paint was sacrificed to the previously mentioned Large Ford Tool. Hung the lower with the bolts just poked in the holes loosely, was able to install the previously heated spring, jacked up the LCA, installed the spindle and hub assembly, hung the upper arm.
Torquing up the ball joint stud nuts
Cotter key installed. I do them this way, I 've seen guys just stick it in and bend both halves over, I never did it like that.
Installing grease zerk, critically important for long life of ball joint. Three of the 4 old ball joints were in pretty good shape for 20 years and 180,000 miles. The right lower zerk got broken off somehow along the way, that ball joint had like .200 vertical slop, wasn't really even safe to drive. I didn't know how bad it was.
Minor tip on steering linkage assembly: you can't install the center link if the Pittman arm and the idler arm are both installed. both studs go in from the bottom and with that tongue on the crossmember there's no way to get enough room. Leave the idler arm loose or off while mounting up the linkage. I laid my old linkage out on the ground and measured the length od the tie-rods, then screwed the news together to match. Considering the amount of stuff changed out here I'm surprised it came out as close as it did.
I had to drive the car in between doing the two sides, so the steering linkage got hooked up to the old stuff on the right side. A day later, tear down the right side. Pretty much like the left.
Still the easiest way for me on the ball joint nuts, just use a box end wrench. Same drill as before, break loose a balljoint nut, back it off a few turns, use a pickle fork to break loose the tapered stud. as always, careful here. Nut still on the stud, shock still installed, jack under the control arm.
getting the shock loose. It'll be a PITA later when there's pressure from the spring or the LCA is way down.
going back together. as noted previously, the new LCAs with new bushings seemed to be a little wider, a real bear getting them in. eventually applied the Large Ford Tool to this side also. you'll notice there seems to be a little paint missing off the end of the arm.
bolts in, up and down a couple times to make sure there's no binding
spring on this side has not been "adjusted" like the drivers side, had to use a spring compressor to get it in. more paint loss, grrrr.
second verse same as the first on the upper. check the "diverse" collection of stuff in the bottom of the tool cart.
back together. in this pic you can how scratched up the arm got getting the spring in. even with the spring compresssor it was a pain.
a couple more to come tomorrow. interesting unexpected result, replacing all the worn out junk in my front end raised the ride height about 3/4". used to have to lift up on the bumper or really ram the floor jack to get it under the crossmember, now it goes in with at 1/2" to spare. Yes the springs are properly located.
for new guys, check the two small holes in the spring pocket of the LCA:
notice they are not at the end of the spring pocket where it looks like the end of the spring would go. The blunt end of the spring is supposed to be between those two holes. Looking up from the bottom you should be able to see spring in one hole, not in the other. I'll see if I can get a pic in the morning.
The Large Ford Tool, also known as a BFH in some circles. Any Ford guys that see this, just kidding, you can think of it as a Large Chevy Tool.
Original Performance Front End Kits
Performance POLYGRAPHITE® Front End Kits
Center Links, idler arms, pitman arms, and tie rods
2" drop spindles
Tubular control arms
G-MAX® Sway Bars
High Performance Coil Springs
POLYGRAPHITE® Bushing Sets - coil spring isolators, sway bar bushings, stabilizer link kits, control arm bushings, body mount kits, motor mounts, and transmission mounts
CATAPULT® Trailing Arm Kits
Brake Rebuild Kits
Disc Brake Conversion Kits
Stainless Steel Brake Line Kits
Engine Parts and Overhaul Kits
Great post Tom, fwiw, I installed their polygraphite bushings front & rear on the '65 Camino, also 1" drop front springs. The parts were bought quite awhile back (hint: the catalog was more of a 20 page flyer back then), and the car has seen the driveway but not the road just yet, but as far as fit, finish, and quality of service goes, I recommend these guys without reservation.
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