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Please help!!!!

2.3K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  BillyGman  
im guna be honest i dont know what my timing is at i will have that checked before i start making bigger changes
You'll need to know the whole timing curve, (ie. the "static" ignition timing, which is at idle RPM, and the "total" ignition timing, which is the furthest number of degrees it will advance while the engine is being reved up, and at what RPM that advance total occurs). The total advance should occur between 2,500 and 3,000 RPM. Most engines on pump gasoline do well with a total timing of 34-36 degrees.

If that total timing of 34-36 degrees isn't coming in until 4,000 RPM or more, then your ignition timing curve needs to be re-adjusted with the use of lighter springs in the distributor in order to bring the total timing in sooner at a lower RPM, ( 2,500-3,000 ).

And if you have an aftermarket ignition box, (such as an MSD box) then not all timing lights will work to check the timing with. With MSD ignition boxes, only timing lights that are compatible with those boxes can be used.
 
:cool: Your cooling system apparently worked fine until you did the engine swap. So, assuming you didn't break anything, what did you change that's now causing the overheating issue? One aspect that's often overlooked when searching for a reason for overheating is one's engine timing. Did you kick the timing to get more power (Been There, Done That)?

Set your 454's timing to 4 degrees BTDC and then see if it overheats.

I found out with my 454 HO Crate Engine that she makes decent power with the timing more advanced, but too much timing and she runs HOT!

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I thought it was the other way around. meaning, if the ignition timing isn't advanced far enough, that would make it run hotter. Anyway, the question I have for the original poster is: exactly where do you have your initial timing set, and your total timing at? And at what RPM does your total timing come in by? Another thing that you need to check, (if you haven't already done so) is to make sure that the thermostat is opening. Sometimes they get stuck closed. You can warm up your engine to operating temp, (without overheating it) and then shut it down, and feel various parts of the radiator (carefully) to see if it's warmed up/hot just like the engine is. If it's still cold, then you know the thermostat isn't functioning, and needs to be replaced. the water pump choice might be the problem, but you need to rule out the small and simple stuff first.