The RTV that you have will work fine. Don't drive the seal all the way in. The new seals are a little too thick and sometimes will contact the outer pinion bearing. Leave it out about 1/6 to 1/8 inch. Be sure that you use RTV around the inside of the housing before you drive the seal in. Use a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke while you torque the nut to 150 foot pounds. If you try using the parking brake it will probably slip and give you a false torque reading. If you leave one wheel on the ground you might end up with the car on top of you.

 

Ok, thanks.

 

And don't forget to lock-tite that nut!!!!

 

Thanks, I won't. Loc-tite red.

 

You could also have a helper sit in the car and apply the brakes while you torque...

 

That is a possibility. Don't mean to sound ignorant, but will the brakes hold ok while trying to apply 150 ft lbs?

 

I just replaced the p/seal on my 69 12bolt and put it in 1st gear and applied the emrgency brake real hard. Wheels did not seem to slip/move after the intial slop in the barakes/drivtrain was taken up and was able to torque to approx 125lbs no problems.

You could also stack something like 4x4 or 6x6 wood stock under the rear tires/wheels (w/emergency brake on) then slowly release the floor jack so the rear & tires come down on the stacked wood with some pressure to also help hold the driveshaft tight when tightening the p/nut.

But make sure you have the floor still lined up under the center of the rear with some pressure so if the wood should start to slip out the jack can still hold the car up.

Also,have jack stands under the frame too for added safety esp while tightening the p/nut on the rear.

I was told to trq p/nut anywhere from 100ft lbs-150ft lbs depeding on who i talked to in the buisness or know of building rear ends when changing the p/seal with the rear still in the car.

So to be safe i decided to trq the p/nut somewhere in between 100-150 ft lbs (approx 120lbs w/loctite in threads) and have driven approx 300 miles since with no problems/funny noises/and p/nut is still tight thank goodness.

Scott

 

I just replaced the p/seal on my 69 12bolt and put it in 1st gear and applied the emrgency brake real hard. Wheels did not seem to slip/move after the intial slop in the barakes/drivtrain was taken up and was able to torque to approx 125lbs no problems.

You could also stack something like 4x4 or 6x6 wood stock under the rear tires/wheels (in 1st if man trans w/emergency brake on) then slowly release the floor jack so the rear & tires come down on the stacked wood with some pressure to also help hold the driveshaft tight when tightening the p/nut.

Scott

Scott, I had to blink a couple times while reading this little bit of your post???

Over the years I have done a fair amount of differential work and I can't recall ever having had to put the transmission in any gear much less 1st OR needing to hold the drive shaft tight while tightening the pinion nut.

You have a whole new method that we really need to explore at length here.

How do you tighten your pinion nut with the driveshaft in place?

 

How could you possibly tighten the pinion nut with the driveshaft installed?

 

Charbilly/Von,You got me,DDDOOOHHH!!!!/ !!!YIKES!!!!! what was i thinking,man i feel like real idiot after that one.

I guess i was inadvertantly thinking i was giving advice for removing the drivshaft before even dealing with torqing down the pinion nut which was why believe i mentioned to put the trans in 1st gear to help hold the d/shaft along with the E/brake when trying to loosen the unjoint bolts before getting to the pinon nut but who knows i may have just messed up.

I guess i got my wires a little crossed on that one,these 60 hr work wks with 5 12 hr work days in a 7 day period are getting to me after 6 yrs of it ,i have acutally lost my glasses while holding them in my hand.(LOL)

Thanks for pointing that out.

Scott

 

Believe me my friend you and I share that one. I have typed plenty of boners in my day. I got a good laugh out if tho.

 

You're forgiven. Anyone who works 60 hr weeks should get some slack. Hope it's not every week.

 

I just replaced mine yesterday on my back in the garage. I backed up onto ramps and chocked the front wheels and was able to loosen and tighten the pinion nut without the car moving. My only problem is when I installed the new seal I tried not to drive it in all the way but by the time I got it tapped in evenly it was flush. Oh well, I'll keep my fingers crossed. I drove it for a couple of miles with no noise or leakage so we'll see....

 

And no problems torquing it back down to 150 ft lbs?

 

I didn't use a torque wrench, I painted a line on the nut and pinion and counted threads. I would guess it was at least a 100 lbs to get the paint line to match up.

 

Ahh, I see. Tightening it was no problem for you though?

I've ordered a brand new nut along with the seal.

 

No, it started getting tight about a 1/4" inch away and then took a steady pull with a 1/2" drive ratchet for the last 1/8" to get the paint marks to line up. I've only driven a couple of miles with no noise or leakage so I'll have to see what happens with more use.

 

You should be fine.