[vjp38]

Let me start by saying I am a novice mechanic and don’t like electrical work. It hurts my head and frustrates the hell out of me. I have seen this topic addressed before in many different ways. In fact some of what I read here lead me to call Pertronix. I have a 1969 Chevelle SS396. I recently convert the stock distributor contact points systems for a Pertronix ignitor module. It was a piece of cake installing and the car started right up. However, under load and acceleration from a stop, it bucks and coughs. So much so I have to let off the gas and rev down. I called Pertronix and they asked if I had a resistor in the circuit. A what? Come to find out I have a white cloth resistor wire from the ignition. I did not know or understand that a contact points systems does not need 12 volts, hence the resistor wire. Pertronix quick fix is to replace the resistor wire with a regular 12-16 gauge wire, thereby removing the resistor wire from the circuit and restoring the full 12V the module requires. So I trace the wire from the coil to the under the power booster on the brake master cylinder. There appears to be two separate wire plugs with multiple colored wire. One of these plugs has the resistor wire. I am assuming due to its location the fuse box is on the other side of the firewall. Before I do something I will surely regret, what is the easiest way to remove and replace this wire. Something tells me yanking it out of the firewall is not the correct procedures. Hope that makes sense, over to you guys for easy to follow layman instructions.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[1badss396]

Read this thread --->http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345299&highlight=resistor+wire&page=2

 

[Dave Ray]

Unless you like to experience "PerTronix Failure Nightmares", LEAVE THE RESISTOR WIRE IN PLACE, use a stock coil, set plug gaps no larger than .035, and use a good set of 7mm plug wires.

 

[bobm67]

Unless you like to experience "PerTronix Failure Nightmares", LEAVE THE RESISTOR WIRE IN PLACE, use a stock coil, set plug gaps no larger than .035, and use a good set of 7mm plug wires.

Are you using pertronix 3 with this set up?

 

[Malibu70]

You can opt to leave the factory resistor wire in place, with no changes to the factory wiring that provided less than 12 volts to the stock points and ignition coil. Your Pertronix module works best with a full 12 volt supply.
One option is to add a relay on the firewall near the new Pertronix ignition system. For less than $20 in parts, a relay can provide full 12v to your ignition system.
Parts needed: relay such as Dorman 84601 ($7), 20A circuit breaker like Littlefuse ACB20BP ($6), and 10 feet of 14g stranded high-temp wire like Dorman 85716 ($7), and a few 14g insulated spade terminals.
Connections would be the horn relay near the headlights to the new circuit breaker with less than a foot of 14g wire, wire from the circuit breaker to the firewall to new relay on pin 30. Wire from relay pin 87 to the Pertronix ignition module supply wire. Factory ignition resistor wire connects to the relay on pin 86, with a foot of 14g wire from relay pin 85 to a firewall or engine ground point.
This is the setup I use on my ignition system and it works great with no modifications to the factory resistor wire from the fuse panel.

 

[billbonn80]

Jim...About 6 months ago I installed a Pertronix 3 in my 68 SS/396. If you search the archives in the elec section you will find my post under "Pertronix # Questions". If you haven't already figured the installation out I'd be glad to talk with you and explain what I did. Just send me a message. I'm an electrical novice like you and once I understood what I was doing it was simple and the SS is running great. I've put about 1000 miles since the swap.

Bill B.

 

[vjp38]

End of the story. I ended up taking the wire and wire block off the firewall and dropping it off at American Auto Wire. They removed the resistor wire and replaced it with an non-resistor HEI/connection. Car runs much better. As far as I am concerned, issue resolved.

 

[65chevelle300post]

Straight from the PerTronix installation instructions.

Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistors or resistance wires. To achieve optimum performance we recommend removal of these components. Determine the proper wire length, and attach the provided terminals. (Use a wire crimping tool to achieve an adequate connection).
To remove a ballast resistor, (normally white ceramic blocks 3 to 4 inches long), disconnect all wires on both ends of the ballast resistor. Remove the resistor from the vehicle and splice the disconnected wires together at a single point. To remove a resistance wire, trace the coil power wire, which was previously connected to the positive coil terminal, back to the fuse block. Bypass this wire with a 12-gauge copper stranded wire.

I'm literally amazed at the simplicity of these directions, yet even more astounded by the insidiously incorrect responses. This incredibly easy to solve problem should have been resolved with the very first response.

 

[Dave Ray]

Yes, it could have, with a simpler 12 gauge wire from the IGN terminal on the fuse box, to the positive coil terminal, and taping off the resistor wire, hiding it in the stock loom. That would have given the full 12 volts to the Ignitor, without having to destroy the stock resistor wire in the loom.

Many tests have proven that Ignitor's don't produce any increase in spark by feeding it more volts.

I would suspect there was a corrosion/increased resistance over stock issue at the resistor wire tereminal at the bulkhead connector, very common issue.

 

[PA Camaro Guy]

One option is to add a relay on the firewall near the new Pertronix ignition system. For less than $20 in parts, a relay can provide full 12v to y
Parts needed: relay such as Dorman 84601 ($7), 20A circuit breaker like Littlefuse ACB20BP ($6), and 10 feet of 14g stranded high-temp wire like Dorman 85716 ($7), and a few 14g insulated spade terminals.
Connections would be the horn relay near the headlights to the new circuit breaker with less than a foot of 14g wire, wire from the circuit breaker to the firewall to new relay on pin 30. Wire from relay pin 87 to the Pertronix ignition module supply wire. Factory ignition resistor wire connects to the relay on pin 86, with a foot of 14g wire from relay pin 85 to a firewall or engine ground point.
This is the setup I use on my ignition system and it works great with no modifications to the factory resistor wire from the fuse panel.

This is a great way to add a new ignition keyed 12v source whatever the need. Thank you!

 

[huffhuff]

Straight from the PerTronix installation instructions.

Many vehicles came equipped with ballast resistors or resistance wires. To achieve optimum performance we recommend removal of these components. Determine the proper wire length, and attach the provided terminals. (Use a wire crimping tool to achieve an adequate connection).
To remove a ballast resistor, (normally white ceramic blocks 3 to 4 inches long), disconnect all wires on both ends of the ballast resistor. Remove the resistor from the vehicle and splice the disconnected wires together at a single point. To remove a resistance wire, trace the coil power wire, which was previously connected to the positive coil terminal, back to the fuse block. Bypass this wire with a 12-gauge copper stranded wire.

I'm literally amazed at the simplicity of these directions, yet even more astounded by the insidiously incorrect responses. This incredibly easy to solve problem should have been resolved with the very first response.

\

this is how I have done it several times.

 

[70CHEVELLE396]

A relay as stated is the best way to get full voltage to your ignition. Also using the power lug on the horn relay is best. That's the main junction for the engine compartment. Even coming off the ignition terminal on the fuse block, is really going through the dash harness. Voltage drop will happen, as the car wasn't designed for high voltage ignitions. That said it will still work fine in most situations. MAD electrical has some good reading available on their website.

 

[toomanymodz]

I ran across this thread while doing a Google search. I had the same issue and saw this post, so I bypassed the factory resistor wire and the problem is solved. I saw the directions that recommended bypassing, but I checked the voltage going to the distributor and it was over 12 so I thought that was sufficient. Apparently it's not and it needs more voltage to function properly.