What system are you using? Brand? Clear shouldn't use thinner, just hardener and clear.

What about primer? You shouldn't shoot color over bare metal. It won't take long before the paint falls off. Especially in the engine compartment.

Thinner? Only lacquer uses that word. Urethane and enamel use reducer. You also didn't make any mention of a catalyst. (hardener) Before something terrible happens, list exactly what you have so we can can walk you through it and see if you need to get something else.

 

Alan somes it up quiet nicely.....:thumbsup:.....Good job Alan....:hurray: .....so what do you know


www.howardsbackyardautobody.com :beers:

 

Thanks for the replys, and yes I guess clearcoat requires hardener, not thinner :clonk:

My paint is OMNI AU basecoat (MBC) im not sure what all the letters and numbers mean, but I have OMNI medium reducer to go with it. My clearcoat is the brand SELECT and well as Fast Hardener. And I sandblasted everything, one coat of army-green metal etching primer, then two coats of sanding primer. I've got it as straight as I want it. Can I work with what I have? I have also heard that you spray the clearcoat on 15 minutes after you spray the basecoat, which is not enought time to clean the gun out and reload with clear, so I have to buy another gun right?
thanks aLOT!
-wes

 

Hi there, go to the PPG web site(omni is owend by ppg)and you can get all the mixing info. Saand your primer with p500 or p600 sandpaper. Your base coat will take 2 or three coats to cover.Leave it 5 to 10 minutes flash time between coats. You should be able to touch it(do this on some thing that is masked so you dont leave a finger print in your new paint job) It doesnt have to be 15 mins between base and clear so clean your gun very well. A little longer flash time would be better then not enough.
Ive never herd of that clear so your on your own on that one.
Make sure you clean the area your going to paint with a good wax and grease remover cause fish eyes suck. I think that just about sums it up.
Just make sure everything is really clean and youll be good to go.
Also you might want to spray a test panel so you can get a feel for it.
Not enough paint makes dry spots and to much makes runs but you can always wetsand and polish that out later.GOOD LUCK:thumbsup:

 

I have used the Select Clear, it was available at one time at Partsource in Canada, but I haven't seen it in awhile. The time I did use it was just on some door jambs and a partial fender job but it seemed to work OK. The only problem you might run into is the speed of setup. I used medium activator and it set up very quick. It was OK for me becuase I was using it in small areas but if you are cleariing a whole car it might be too fast and you will run into dry spray so be careful.

I agree with my fellow Canadian Paul-ish, when in doubt try a test panel first

 

Something else to consider. Clear coat ISN'T paint. It's a sprayable plastic. Make sure when it's all said and done you clean the gun VERY thoroughly. Everybody on here has contributed some valid and helpful. If you take your time and follow all the advice, you'll do fine. One side note; I've done it plenty, so you'll probably be ok, but PPG doesn't like you mixing brands. Also if it were me, I'd go with slow reducer in this heat, not medium.

Omni- brand name

AU- acrylic urethane

MBC- metal base / clear (For use on metal surfaces)

The numbers are just stock numbers to identify the differant products 168 hardener as opposed to 167, etc. I used to know the whole Omni line part numbers by heart when I had the body shop. It was inexpensive quality paint. It cut the cost of paint jobs down to a competitive rate. It's been about 8 or 9 years since then, however.

 

Hey, WES, there is nothing like painting your own car, if it comes out slick you will have a big grin on your face for weeks, if it turns out NOT so good, you have wasted valuable time and money.
If you know someone who has done this before by all means get them to help you with the clear coating atleast.
One other thing about the clear, you have atleast 6-8 hours before you have to clear the paint, so do not get in a big hurry cleaning your gun after you paint.
There sould be some directions on what the window is before you have to put the clear on the paint.
If you wait past that window you will have to sand the paint first, you do not want to do that.

 

Good information here except for the 500-600 grit sandpaper, you'll need a coarser grit for good adhesion. PPG recommends 400 dry or 500 wet.

You are on your own with the clear. I would definitely not recommend mixing brands. PPG makes some very good and economical clear under the Omni brand and you can clear coat at any time up to 24 hours at which point you'll need to sand the base coat to roughen it up.

Tom

 

So are you
jambed out yet???:beers:

 

I havent painted yet, still got alot of work to do. What is the recipe for the paint/thinner and the clear/hardener?
Thanks for all your help guys!
-wes

 

Hello again WES, you will have to get the mixing formula from the place you bought the paint and clear, all paints and clears are a little different.
Most clears are 3 parts clear to 1 part hardner, or it could be 4 to 1 mixture.
The paint i use has a activator plus a reducer. It is 16 parts paint, 1 part activator and and 10/15% reducer. So most paints are different mixes.
Be sure to read the mixing instructions carefully.

 

I wouldn't make my first paint job my car. Why don't you start out with something smaller and easier. Paint your kid's bike, or maybe the refrigerator in the shop you keep your beer in, or even paint your engine hoist and engine stand. It's just less stressful to paint something you care a little less about. I started out painting the metal cabinets in my shop. There is always a learning curve, some people get through it faster than others. YMMV

 

Thanks for the help felles. I've done a little painting, im just doing the engine comp and door jambs, im havin the body done professionally.

 

go to the ppg web site..
it'll list the mixing /etc
on the data sheets..
go back to the place you bought the stuff from
and get the ppg measuring paint stick...
it'll more than likely be alum.
that and the data sheets will tell you the mixing instructions..
good luck..
remember when you think it's clean enough, clean it again

 

Whoa!!!! If you are asking these questions, then you are far from ready to paint your car.

Let's slow down and talk about this for a while, you obviously know far too little about what you are doing even to just do what you are.