If you want the pits to "not show", then sand the epoxy with a scotch brite and put a couple coats of 2k primer on it and block it out. Then you can just paint right over the 2k primer and be done. Or put a coat of sealer over the 2k and then paint it.....either way will be fine......

 

Rick,
is the 2K primer the high build or primer / filler epoxy? Presently I have 2 coats of Epoxy primer which mixes as 1:1 from SPI on the chassis.
Thanks,
Roland

 

Sealer will not be required for the frame. It's meant for the body and has properties enhancing a superior finish. Gloss retention, color hold out, dieback prevention, increased coverage capability, and others.

 

Just get some urethane primer and be done with it. I like the Turbo prime from SPI. Just scuff up the epoxy and apply 3 coats of urethane primer and block sand til straight. When finished, apply a few more coats of epoxy...Eric

 

Roland, the 2k primer I use is "Transtar", it is a high build primer. The "2k" just means it has a catalyst that has to be added. And as Scott said, the sealer is not required, but does add a little more finished look, and if you sand through the 2k primer it does help to seal the frame before painting, that is why I suggested the sealer.....

 

Some if not most pitting is really too deep for high build, you'd be using more than 2 coats. I'd shoot polyester prime such as featherfill and then seal it. An extra step but it sure beats piling on high build. You'd need a 1.7 tip or larger, ideally a 2.0 tip to shoot the poly.

Jerry

 

Some if not most pitting is really too deep for high build, you'd be using more than 2 coats. I'd shoot polyester prime such as featherfill and then seal it. An extra step but it sure beats piling on high build. You'd need a 1.7 tip or larger, ideally a 2.0 tip to shoot the poly.

Jerry

Jerry,
the polyester fill is what was suggested by a friend of mine also. He said to put it on and it's easy sanding / blocking. I may go that route to try and get the labor time as low as I can........I am the labor. I want the chassis to look as good as I can make it. Can you suggest a polyester fill from the can?
Thanks,
Roland

 

Slick Sand, I just used some on my sheet metal, sands great not too pricy either. Make sure you have a 2.0 or larger tip though.

Tony

 

I've only used featherfill and it works slick, sands easy. It doesn't require a reducer so it doesn't take you very far. Others recommend the slick sand more often than the featherfill but I believe they are very similar and are both an evercoat product. When you block it out, use a sacrificial paper to cut the glaze. You'll see that first paper clot up fairly fast, toss it and move on with new. You will have to seal the polyester before topcoating as it is porous.

Jerry

 

I put this out about 2 1/2 years ago Roland, but it might help. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200149&highlight=sprayable+body+filler

Rob

 

And heres this, it takes into account those deeper pock marks or scratches. http://www.1969supersport.com/paintchassis.html

Rob

 

I just reread your post Roland. (This is a non matching #'s car, am I considering too much dertail? I want this to be right.)

Non matching cars is where you can go after a lot of detail, a matching car would be done so it looks like it did when it came out of the factory, so you have a lot more options on a run of the mill ride, I know I have a run of the mill ride myself, or partially done ride.

If its purely a hobby, take the time to get that frame right, if it bugs you a little bit now it won't go away.

Take 36 grit by hand or on a rolex disc, sand it and rough up those scratches and pock marks really good. Then put some rage filler over it, sand it pretty flat, then spray it with sprayable body filler, then sand it out, then paint it.

You'll know what I'm talking about when somebody walks up to your car and looks under the hood, you will stop them right in there tracks.:thumbsup:

Rob

 

Heres what your after.

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Rob,
you are definately the master of this. I am going to go with the extra work to take out the pitting on the chassis and do it to my liking. I am attention to detail oriented and if I don't do the chassis and fill in the pits I will know till my last breath that it's like that. I guess that's the nuke in me bringing out the details. I don't know if can achieve your measure of excellence, but I am going to try on the areas that can be seen. I am going to take the front control arms back off and will start at the front rails and work back. Thanks for the encouragement.

Roland

 

You won't have a problem making them look good and even better then the ones I did Roland, it only takes time.

When you get those babys right, get us some pictures.:thumbsup: