I'd da it.
people blast, because it's faster than sanding with a da.
eastwood had a kit that turns a sandblaster into a soda blaster..
if you choose to blast..
sand and soda hold water..
and most times you can't get it all out..
I'll be blasting some parts(ones i can get it all off of) and sanding the stuff that I can't..
sandblasting will warp the sheet metal.. if not carefull.
da will to if you stay in one spot to long..
I vote sand (da) takes longer but no side effects..

 

Depends- do you want it done fast or done right? If you want it done right -media blast or sand blast- yeah you may open a can of worms but if you dont , those worms can be boring through the new work a few years form now and cause problems all over again.
Do it once and do it right. It may cost more up front but save you and the car in the long run.

And definatly have the car coated as soon as its blasted- worht every penny. I use a sandblaster for my shop because I usually have the entire car done but media blasting is just as good.

 

Did mine this past year, sandblaster was very experienced, did a great job, got it epoxy primed it after endless cleanup from the sand. It looks brand new. I think it was well worth it. Saved countless hours of labor.

 

When you say MEDIA, what do you mean? Plastic bead, soda, walnut shell, what?

Although I have never soda blasted myself, and I'm no expert, my buddy has a soda blasted car sitting in his shop with the epoxy primer peeling and flaking off it all over. He washed it well afterwards and wiped it down, etc.

Good thing he never got past the expoxy part.

 

all paint manufac.. will not warranty their paint if the car was soda blasted..

 

Now, when I got my body sandblasted at a local junk yard, it all looked good. But then I kept hearing complaints from the guy that did the primer & paint work. Never should have blasted (whatever media) any straight sheet-metal parts that will run a lenght of space. Just blast the nooks & crannies where the metal is re-inforced & warpage is not an issue.
As for getting the majority of the paint off of flat & accessable areas, brush on a good quality paint remover gel. Then do something I didn't do the first time, cover it with some plastic sheeting (even the suran wrap works good) over the gel while it works it's magic. Peel off what paint will come off, then DA the rest. Worried about some minor surface rust since this is taking too long? I keep reading about just shooting epoxy primer over bare metal, but I can't imagine doing that unless it's metal prepped first to get rid of the minor (and barely noticable) surface rust.

 

Don't sandblast the exterior sheetmetal but definately blast everything else, window openings, jambs, firewall, floor, interior, rocker panels, etc... I wouldn't sodablast anything. Plastic media would work well on the exterior but you'll still have to sand it to get the right texture for primer adhesion-assuming you're using epoxy primer.

 

Wow, it sounds like he did all he could do prepwise. WAPITA to remove all that product now, and what is he going to do to correct it? Maybe a phospheric etch folowed by more sanding?

 

I did my 67 El Camino this year and was glad that I had it professionally sand blasted. It is very fast and really not that expensive. I did later learn that around door hinges and hood springs I would have been better off using a stripper. The sand does get into the smallest places.