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My official big block combinations page (viewing is mandatory) :-)

67K views 1K replies 32 participants last post by  Kevin R  
#1 · (Edited)
Well the time has come and I will be building my first engine. This is the forum where we will discuss my combos, I look forward to hearing input from all of you.

George and others have convinced me to build a BBC.

So far a pretty standard 454 build up, more to come soon.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Here is what is in the works now.

454 block 60 over

Scat cast standard stroke crank

781 heads with larger valves and port work
Compression should be roughly 10.5:1

GM "truck" thumb rods w/ arp bolts

Pistons are KB .25" domed
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=details&P_id=116

Cam is undecided, want a fairly stout lope, but needs to be streetable and reliable without putting major strain on the valvetrain.

Carb is undecided, probably about 850 cfm

Intake is undecided, looking for a good deal on a dual plane
 
#1,003 ·
Figured it was time to bring this bad boy to the top before it gets lost again in the depths of the threads. :D

Lashed the rockers today, kinda a chore when you have to remove all the plugs. All were pretty good, went a tad tighter then I was before, right at stock settings now. Next time think I will keep them a bit more loose to increase the lower end torque.

Took her out for a spin but the roads were wet. Was fun to get on her and have them spinning through 4th gear. :yes: I had no problem just rolling along, increasing the throttle and letting the tires break loose in 3rd. Couldnt seem to do it in 4th though. :sad: Didnt even try overdrive... :D
 
#1,002 ·
#1,001 ·
#995 ·
Hmmmm 3.90 gears, th350, and 2800 SBC stall.....
That BBC will make that converter stall 3100-3300
Throw a healthy RAT in there...no trouble at all low 12s or high 11s....thought the DRs might complain...and some bolt-in suspension pieces

IF you can convert for little/no cost to 4-bolt, why not? So long as you do everything right...might as well stud the bottom end too as you'll have to align hone with the new caps....
Some of the guys here have gone to some pretty interesting cams in 08.....
But Muncher-Brian.....
Start your own thread as you are only upping the post count on Brett's thread......
 
#996 ·
Some of the guys here have gone to some pretty interesting cams in 08.....
But Muncher-Brian.....
Start your own thread as you are only upping the post count on Brett's thread......
George is just jeolous that his thread only had half the post count. :yes:. With 3.90's and the converter you've got you should be right there in the low 12 range. are you looking for a flat tappet or roller. I do agree to start your own thread the info will be more directed towards your combo
 
#993 ·
Doc,

Thanks for the info so far.

1970 Chevelle, 3.90 posi, turbo 350 trans, drag radials.
Cast steel crank is okay?
Thumb rods came with engine.

I work at a machine shop, I can convert to a 4 bolt main at zero labor cost- should I ?

My current converter with the small-block, (I'd guess 375 hp), about 2800 stall.

Camshaft - this is a street car - maybe see the strip once every two years. It'd be nice to hit the high 11's or low 12's. Fuel mileage is not important.
 
#998 ·
No extra cost, 4-bolt it, why not for free.

The cam Kevin, Mark, and Brett are running rocks and with the combo I listed above, should run 11's easily. 402A3 cut on a 107lobe sep instead of 110. Kevin's motor would run 10's in my nova and run on pump gas. Heads are worth a bit of extra poop though.
 
#991 ·
454 block
L2465F forged pistons, pin fit before mounting, and add 233K moly rings
Thumb rods with ARP bolts
Cast crank ok, steel if you can get it
Balance it
Clevitte or comparible bearings
HV pump with a heavy duty steel sleeved drive
781 or 049 heads with pocket porting, larger valves if you can afford it if they are done corrrectly but stock valve size will work well with a good pocket port and the compression will be slightly over 10-1. add good springs to match cam choosen
Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, or even the Weiand Action plus manifold
roller rockers HIGHLY recommended
Hooker 2255 comp headers
Cloyes double rooler (true roller great but you can keep the cost down with a good old heavy duty regular Cloyes double roller or similiar quality brand)
Carb: 800 or Larger DP'r carb with some tuning

Camshaft,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,here's where you really need to figure out how nasty you want it and what RPM range. Brett's new cam , that a few others on the NW forum are running, have shown excellent power and still very streetable

Stall converter to maximize engine

Gears,,,,what do you intend to run?
 
#990 ·
I agree with Mark that you can make 500hp easy with 2 bolt mains and a 454 cast crank. most say just use ARP bolts and they are good up to 600hp plus. Studding the mains requires align honing.
 
#988 ·
Hey guys, give me a hand here.

I too, like so many others here, am starting my first big block build.
I just picked up a completely disassemble motor.
highlights:
454 2 bolt - needs to be honed at least, probably bored.
peanut port heads

I see some 781 heads complete for $100 locally - is this a deal? Better than peanut port heads?
Building a budget motor and would like to see 500 HP. I don't mind buying good used parts.
For my '70 Chevelle - currently a small-block car. I'm looking very hard for a used 4.25 stroke forged crank.
Help me pick the right parts....heads, pistons, cam, etc.

Thanks in advance.
 
#989 ·
Somewhere in this thread Brett has a spreadsheet of all his parts and costs. That will get you in the ballpark. For your goals, a cast 454 crank will do you just fine, just stud the mains.
 
#983 ·
Hopefully mods allow this:

If anyone is interested, I'm going to sell stuff from previous engine with 2k miles.
-Lunati 60204 cam, lifters, springs (excellent condition)
-Stock rebuilt waterpump
-Stock mechanical fuel pump
-24cc 4.310 bore domed KB hyper pistons(only 7)
-Comp steel roller tip rockers
 
#980 · (Edited)
Figured I should give an update to my loyal fans and followers now that the cat is out of the bag.. :D

So,,, I thought all the water in the oil was from head bolts but that much water never could have come from torqued head bolts even if there was no sealant on the threads. Looks like the intake was the culpret. I believe that because of the decking of the block and possible milling of the heads that this may have caused the problem. So its frustrating that I stripped a head bolt and had to buy new gaskets when I didnt really need to.

I ended up taking a day off to vent my frustrations. I then overnighted some new head gaskets $200, and some felpro printoseal intake gaskets which are quite a bit thicker and have a polymer gasket seal on all the ports. I also smeared a very thin layer of RTV on the lower parts of both sides of the gaskets to help with the sealing. I worked every hour that I wasnt sleeping or working and removed the heads and cleaned things up. Next day I reinstalled and took it for the first drive on Friday. I then showed up at Darryls with it.

So far no water in the oil! :hurray: I got on the engine pretty hard today, its alot of fun and pulls really well. I can now just romp on it in second and tires go ballistic, sideways before I know it! :D Seems to really pull pretty strong especially up higher and the cam has excellent street manners. I am pretty happy. Still only taken it up to about 5k under load, 6k+ when the tires were spinning. (it was an accident, it just wants to run free) :D

Here is a pic of the leaking intake gasket and me doing the teardown. Cam looked perfect. R&R iron heads in the car is a PITA! :mad:

Wet on the lower half and intake ports oily.
Image


heads off:
Image


Mostly back together with the inner springs in now:
Image
 
#977 ·
I wish,,, This one has been fighting me non stop. If this ends up needing to be rebuilt, I will replace my heads and all internals into a different 60 over block. The threads are just shot on this block and the decking causes lots of problems and requires thicker more $ head gaskets. I really think I have the capability of doing a rebuild, its really not that difficult just lots of prep and things to check. Its just sometimes things go wrong.

I will update all at the BBQ or after. Waiting to see how some things play out before I disclose any information. I will let you know I dont think the head bolts were the main problem, more likely the intake gasket with the way it looked and how much water was in the oil. Bottom half of the gaskets wet with oil... This probably means I didnt have to reinstall head bolts at all. That means I didnt need to strip head bolts. That means I didnt have to buy new head gaskets. That means life sucks and try to learn from mistakes.

PS: Cam looks perfect! :thumbsup:
 
#974 ·
Mark, the books I have say 75 for the long ones, 65 for the short.

Heres the videos: Quality is horrible.

Breaking in:

Setting idle:
 
#973 ·
65 is what all the books I've read say. Are you running a tap down the bolt holes and a die on the bolts to clean them up?
 
#971 ·
Hey Brett;

Sorry about your head bolt issues. If you do decide to degree your cam you can borrow my degree wheel setup. I've got the CompCams 18" Billet setup.