I personally run the Moroso solid motor mounts and I rubber trans mount.
I think running a solid trans mount you are asking for problems.

The rubber mounts weren't lasting too long for me, and the reason I am running both solid mounts on the engine is because they are sold in pairs.

I think the next best option is running the polyurethane engine mounts , but i would still stick with a rubber trans mount,.

Dave

 

I have run all solids with no problems. There are some people that have had cracked bell housings doing this. I have a scattershield 4spd car, and since many posts on this subject, I have changed the tranny mount to a polly. I have seen no real diffrence since the switch. I have run all solid mounts in many cars since the 70's, but I respect the opinions, and experiance of the TC members, so I did the polly tranny mount.

 

On the motor mounts, the driver side is under extension and the passenger is under compression, so the load is on the driver side. This is the reason for the solid driver mount. As far as the trans goes, I like having something to absorb any vibes in the car. The weaker part is the aluminum trans case. I have always run rubber or poly. My Chevelle had a rubber mount up until a few years ago. The Nova still has one.

 

Solid driver,stock pass. side, stock tranny mt,,no problems.I did have a poly trans mt. once but took it out when the case cracked 2 years ago.

 

I run poly in all 3 places and it works fine.

 

Solid driver's side, rubber pass side, rubber tranny mount here - no issues, no vibration.

 

Ditto that!
I've always used a solid mount on the driver's side...on any performance application. Buy them in pairs and you've got enough for two cars.

 

Solid driver's side, stock new rubber pass. side, Energy poly trans mount.

Works great and I've done this on several cars with no ill effects.

 

I don't see any advantage in running a solid mount on one side of the engine and a rubber or poly mount on the other side. Seems to me that the movement of the rubber mount would create more stress on the solid mount - but this is only my observation - I have never had any experience with such a setup.
For a street/strip or bracket car poly mounts all the way around are the best choice IMO. If solid engine mounts are used, a poly or stock rubber transmission mount works the best.

 

The engine is still able to pivot slightly on the cross bolt passing thru the solid mount...compensating for the minor compression and movement of the rubber mount on the pass side.
I watched my bro-in-law's Chevelle break a poly engine mount which allowed just enough movement after it broke to let the fan hit the shroud which in turn took out the radiator...right on the track. :sad:

 

Remember when you could get an anchoring cable for the drivers side from the dealer. Then you could get the t-lock mounts. If the mount breaks the fan can hit the shroud and or the air cleaner hit the hood along with trans mishaps.

 

I saw a Grand National a couple weeks ago that had the turn-buckle style cable.

 

What will produce the most shaking of the car at idle? Would the one solid, one poly shake more or less than 2 solids, 2 poly's or 2 rubbers? This could be a deciding factor for a street car. With a good sized cam some people wouldn't want the car to shake the wheels off the ground at a stoplight. (or maybe they would)

 

I have a 66 SS and will be installing a zz502 w/ lunati cam and pro comp carb set-up w/rs600 manual tranny w O/D. ill be pushing 600HP and prob easily over 600lbs of torque (straight from chevy it was 502 HP and 560 torque i believe) it is mainly going to be just a street car. cant say ill never do any track time but thats not the intent of why i built it for. so would you guys just go poly all the way around? what would you recommend?

 

Solid on the driver's side, rubber everywhere else...

I had the rubber mount fail on my original '70 with only a 350 pushing only 250hp - and never any track time. It's not worth it to use rubber on the driver's side for any application, in any condition, for any reason EXCEPT when maintaining a 100% factory look IMO.

 

I built a stout 327 chevy for my cousins 67 camaro..4 speed car
he had solid moroso mounts and the only problem i ever seen was at the track the water pump bolts would vibrate out!!!!
I tried lock tight and lock washers ,,but on pit road the thing would be sitting there and i would have to go tow it back...never seen anything like it....I cut some tire side wall and placed it between the solid mount and the block and bolted it back together,,,never had that problem again....

Tire sidewall is good for a lot of things.

 

Okay so what I've gathered from this discussion is that the rubber mounts fail when used on the driver's side because they are under tension and eventually get pulled apart, whereas they last on the passenger side because they are under compression.

I was looking around and found the Lakewood muscle mounts. While more expensive than a stock replacement, I think they're made of higher durometer rubber.

So I think what I'll do is run the solid driver side, get a Lakewood mount for the passenger side, and get a rubber for the trans.

Any suggestions on a high-quality rubber trans mount?

 

wow lots of you guys are running solids! I wouldnt just because its to rough and has no give so your putting a lot of stress on that mount but hey if it works for you go for it

I personally run a poly driver mount and rubber pass side and trans. No issues and the poly still allows movment.

The energy suspension poly mount has interlocking plats so you cant tear it apart like a rubber one. Ive tore 3 rubber ones in half!

 

Do the poly's squeak? I'd be glad to try em if they don't squeak!

 

Nope no squeak with the mounts there isnt enough movment to squeak. The metal plates that make up the poly mount are interlocked so you cant tear it in half.

 

The solid mount is not rough. Feels exactly the same as with stock rubber - it's not noticeable. It think that's a common misconception.

 

Running solids on my solid roller 406 as long as you run a rubber or poly tranny mount your good with all solids you will twist the bellhousings in two!

 

when running this set up( solid drivers, ploy/rubber pass side and trannny mount..
do you use a nylon locking nut on the solid side bolt, so you can leave it a little loose for free movement and a little grease on the bolt where it's in shear.. instead of having the bolt torqued down and binding any movement the rubber/ploy might give on the other side

 

Energy Poly on the drivers side and trans. Stock on the pasenger side.

 

well ordered the energy polys today, ill be getting a rubber mount for tranny whenever i get my RS600 so going to mount the rubber for the tranny. guess ill see what happens.

 

ok got them today,,,the energy suspention mounts. whats the deal though?????? i ordered mounts and inserts. all i got were the inserts and instrustions on how to modify stock housings to allow these to work with them??? Was i jipped here? i got them from summit. is this the normal way they come?

 

anyone have anything for me on this??? anyone??

 

I just put on a solid mount for the drivers side today. Other side is a Lakewood Muscle mount. The engine seemingly doesn't move or twist at all now. I could just barely feel some vibration at low speeds, but nothing at cruising speed. Seems fine to me.

I had broken a couple stock mounts in the past, but these Lakewood Muscle mounts held up nicely. I would recommend them and/or use them again.

 

I had pollys all the way around in my bb 70 and the pass side tall m/t valve cover would hit the evap core cover, I went solids on motor and left the polly on the trans, works great:yes::thumbsup:

 

Well I installed the rubber trans mount tonight. I'll do the passenger side motor mount tomorrow. Can't wait to see if there's a difference.

By the way, what are the correct torque specs I should be using?