[Gunn]

I've done it before and have gotten along fine. But now I'm having trouble keeping the line from slipping in the clamp. Every single time I try to begin the 1st flare, the tube slips. I have the clamp tightened all the way on both ends. I tried wrapping the tube in a layer or two of duct-tape, not figuring it would work and...it didn't help.

I'm trying to make the flare in previously installed brake line tubing (not Stainless). Could that have something to do with it? I even used steel wool to clean up the outside before putting on the clamp but no help. Now that I've thought about it, all the previous successfully made flares I've done have been in new tubing. I'm trying to just replace a section of the line this time.

Which leads me to my next question. Surely there has got to be better double-flaring tools for the home user than the relatively cheap clamp and twist the cone shaped thing down type. Is there anything better out there, but not so pricey? Maybe around the $50-75 mark that is easier and more reliable?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Redmanf1]

Is your clamp center or edges touching? You could take a little off the edge to make it tighter. If you do that it will make the hole smaller. Just a thought.

 

[TH]

I've had to put the clamp into a vise to get a good grip with it. Cinch it down really good.

Another member here said that brake line will "work harden" if it is cut with a cutting tool and this makes it hard to flare. He suggested cutting the line with a fine tooth hacksaw. I don't know if that will help you or not. I'm just passing on info that I heard here.

 

[bulb122]

I've had the same trouble with cheesy flare tools. I don't even attempt double flares anymore, I used regular ole single flares on my brakes, and they work just fine. I've had zero leaks, and nothing has broken or otherwise caused trouble.....A single flare may not be as attractive as a double, but in my experience they work just as good.

 

[Derek69SS]

ditto on the single flare! no trouble here, and every brake line on my car is done this way.

 

[straight1]

It's the hardness of the brake line that's being offered today and also the metric sizing,I had brake lines that needed to be replaced on a drum to disc conversion earlier this year and I pulled out the Blue Point (Snap On) double flaring tool that had worked flawlessly in times past when it was used and the single flare would do properly and the double flare would be egg shaped,so I borrowed another Blue Point and it worked better fixing the problem. Hope this helps

 

[John D]

Try this: (I'm assuming you've got the type of tool made with about 1/2" square bar stock, ribbed holes, and wing nuts to clamp it together??)

Using the "draw filing" technique, shave a few thousanths of each side of your flare tool clamps. It'll give you a bit more clamping force before the halves are tight against themselves.

To "draw file", chuck a half of the tool (with the 1/2 circles up) in a vise. Using a good/sharp file, lay it flat on the material, and pull/draw it toward you. You'll see where you're cutting, as the metal will be shiny. The idea is to stay as flat and parallel as possible. Several strokes on each 1/2 should do it.

 

[Dean]

Good advice John.

Double flares on steel tubing take some practice as well as a pretty good quality flaring tool.

I have found that as well as deburing the inside of the tubing, I have to chamfer the outside of it pretty drastically also.

I've probably made at least a million or two flares in the last 35 years and can make a nice flare on 2" copper but I still have problems with double flaring steel tubing.

(mom told me 10 million times not to exaggerate)