[keetes]

I own the block for a 1970 Chevelle SS 4-speed car. It is currently .060 over. It has been hot tanked and magged. This came from a machine shop. If you have the car that needs it's numbers-matching engine or are building a clone or a corvette, please contact me. The casting number is # 3963512, casting date is K-7-69 (Nov 1969). Engine suffix "CRT". It is a two bolt main block. I see no damage, no repairs, and no welding.

$1200

Hey Guys,

I've come across this engine for sale and was wondering if it's a good deal. I have a 1970 Chevelle that I've cloned to an SS. I do not have a date correct block though. I'd love to have one but I'm not confident that this one is what I'm looking for. There are no heads as it's a bare block. Your input and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mike]

CRT= 70 ,454 ,Chevelle ,360HP ,LS-5 RPO ,w/4-Spd ,4-Brl

 

[1966_L78]

I own the block for a 1970 Chevelle SS 4-speed car. It is currently .060 over. It has been hot tanked and magged. This came from a machine shop. If you have the car that needs it's numbers-matching engine or are building a clone or a corvette, please contact me. The casting number is # 3963512, casting date is K-7-69 (Nov 1969). Engine suffix "CRT". It is a two bolt main block. I see no damage, no repairs, and no welding.

$1200

Hey Guys,

I've come across this engine for sale and was wondering if it's a good deal. I have a 1970 Chevelle that I've cloned to an SS. I do not have a date correct block though. I'd love to have one but I'm not confident that this one is what I'm looking for.

IMO, its not worth it... Its already 0.060 over, and while the mentions its been hot tanked and magged, there's no mention of if it will need to be bored again (getting thin). I could be sleeved, but thats a lot of work...

Have you EVER tried to read the casting numbers and dates with the engine IN the car??? Very difficult to do without at least leaning way over your fenders (so is anybody going to be allowed to lean all over your car to see IF it has the right block?)...

The "stamped" engine suffix code is alot easier to see, and if its still there, it will also indicate that the engine belongs to a different car. IMO, once the motors been changed, its no longer original. If I see a car with a very closely dated but non-original engine, I become very sceptical of the rest of the car, because it seems as though someone is trying very hard to make it "original"...

IMO, unless you were trying to compete in a show where they will check the casting numbers, its probably NOT worth it... Even so, If the judges were getting that in depth, do you think they wouldn't find something else wrong on your "clone"? And are you planning on returning the car to "stock" to compete in those shows?

Also, if you currently have a well running engine, then figure the extra cost of needing to rebuild this engine...

One other thing, whats the build date for your car? The car build date must be after the engine assembly date...

 

[keetes]

Wow the information is great folks. Hence the reason I return often with many unsolved questions. Personally, I didn't like the fact it was bored .60 over. I figured it had been rebuilt many times or someone was trying to make it a 468ci. I wasn't trying to go for a numbers matching thing for car shows or anything, but it would have been nice to have a 1970 454 engine. Thanks again for your advice.

 

[keetes]

Secondly, I was considering building this one for my current 70 so I could use my other 454 and trans in another Chevelle I'm building. I have a frame, 12 bolt rear, fiberglas hood, and other parts for my second build. No engine or trans yet. Well I will keep my eyes and ears open in hopes something like this will find it's way to me again.

 

[SixActual]

I own the block for a 1970 Chevelle SS 4-speed car. It is currently .060 over. It has been hot tanked and magged. This came from a machine shop. If you have the car that needs it's numbers-matching engine or are building a clone or a corvette, please contact me. The casting number is # 3963512, casting date is K-7-69 (Nov 1969). Engine suffix "CRT". It is a two bolt main block. I see no damage, no repairs, and no welding.

$1200

LS-5's had two-bolt mains?

Respectfully,
John R.

 

[keetes]

Yeah, the photos in the ad showed a two bolt main.

 

[kettbo]

John R.,

The 1970 LS-5 454 had 2-bolt main, steel crank, cast pistons 10.25:1, closed chamber heads 101cc 2.06/1.72" valves, low cast-iron intake, Q-jet. The cam was the hi-perf hydraulic....barely large enough to make a 396 run half decently. In a 454 that cam is a low rpm torque king, all done playing by 4000 rpm

 

[SixActual]

John R.,

The 1970 LS-5 454 had 2-bolt main, steel crank, cast pistons 10.25:1, closed chamber heads 101cc 2.06/1.72" valves, low cast-iron intake, Q-jet. The cam was the hi-perf hydraulic....barely large enough to make a 396 run half decently. In a 454 that cam is a low rpm torque king, all done playing by 4000 rpm

George,

Thanks for that info.


Respectfully,
John R.

 

[Dave Birdwell]

The best thing is, with the LS5, all you have to do is clean up the casting flash in the ports, put the LS6 2.19" intake valves in, and use a good aluminum intake, with a decent performance cam, and you'll think you own an LS6 because it'll run that well.