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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I read threads for a while before ordering all parts for suspension rebuild of my 71 Convertible Malibu (small block). For springs I went with the Eibach 3856.140. See pic below, the rear sits where I'd like it but the front needs to go down at least another inch - I honestly don't believe the front dropped any, actually may even be higher. So, I'm searching more threads here an other places on the web but there's mixed results everywhere. I'm going to order 2inch drop fronts but looking to see what brands are actually "2 inch drop". BMR, UMI, or Moog. Seems like all feedback I've seen with Hotchkis is it will not be 2 inches.
 

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I was really hoping to not cut the springs, but if the pros do it then it must be necessary. BTW- the coils are set correctly in the lower control arms.
 
I read threads for a while before ordering all parts for suspension rebuild of my 71 Convertible Malibu (small block). For springs I went with the Eibach 3856.140. See pic below, the rear sits where I'd like it but the front needs to go down at least another inch - I honestly don't believe the front dropped any, actually may even be higher. So, I'm searching more threads here an other places on the web but there's mixed results everywhere. I'm going to order 2inch drop fronts but looking to see what brands are actually "2 inch drop". BMR, UMI, or Moog. Seems like all feedback I've seen with Hotchkis is it will not be 2 inches.
You have to be careful with Lowering the Frontend of your Car to much
with the Size of Wheel/Tire Width you have on your Car
as when you go to a Full Turn aspect you may find that the Tire Will Rub or Bend your Fender Lip
 
I have found that there is no one spring that fits all applications. Too many variables to take into account. What you really need to do is first is to weigh the front and rear axles independently and then calculate what spring rate and size will fit your needs. Most small block Chevelles will come in around 1800 to 1900lbs front axle weights. I have used Eaton Detroit springs with great success to get me the right spring for prior applications. Another thing to remember is that as you change the rear springs lower, the front will change upward accordingly. Cutting the fronts is fine as long as you retain correct positioning to index the spring in the pockets It will also change the rate slightly, but most of these cars were undersprung to begin with. I would spec a 350 lb rate for a daily driver with a 1/18 sway bar, or a 450lb rate with a still larger sway bar for more corner carving feel.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I'm pleased with the results of my BMR 1-inch lowering springs in the front.
How do you like the ride of BMR’s? I’ve ran Hotchkis and Eibach many times and like the ride - firm enough to improve handling but not so harsh that it rides rough. I see the BMR price is pretty cheap - that used to mean lowering the car and riding like a wagon. 😀
 
Thanks for the feedback. I was really hoping to not cut the springs, but if the pros do it then it must be necessary. BTW- the coils are set correctly in the lower control arms.
Not in the lower control arms. I’m talking about up in the frame. There’s a pocket for the springs to seat properly. I’m suspecting that they are not seated properly. If I’m right, your front end should drop by an inch. Don’t assume they are. If you just put the spring up in there, compress it and attach the ball joints, I’d be willing to bet money that they won’t be installed properly. Take 30 seconds to check on your back with a flash light.
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
Not in the lower control arms. I’m talking about up in the frame. There’s a pocket for the springs to seat properly. I’m suspecting that they are not seated properly. If I’m right, your front end should drop by an inch. Don’t assume they are. If you just put the spring up in there, compress it and attach the ball joints, I’d be willing to bet money that they won’t be installed properly. Take 30 seconds to check on your back with a flash light.
Good point. That would be a good check.
 
How do you like the ride of BMR’s? I’ve ran Hotchkis and Eibach many times and like the ride - firm enough to improve handling but not so harsh that it rides rough. I see the BMR price is pretty cheap - that used to mean lowering the car and riding like a wagon. 😀
The BMR's lowered exactly where I wanted and tightened up the original worn spring body roll. The BMR's did not degrade the ride quality. My poly body mounts, installed a couple months before the springs, did more to make road imperfections noticeable (ie: harsh ride). Also, my shocks are bad. I'm expecting things to smooth out a little once I get new shocks. I would still like aftermarket sway bars front and back.
 
I used the Hotchkis small block 2" drop springs on all 4 corners with an LS1 & was extremely pleased with the way the car sat & handled. Tried the CPP 1" drop springs first & they were a joke. Car sat higher than stock.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Pretty happy with my 2" UMI springs front and rear. View attachment 726411 View attachment 726412
Your car sits perfectly. I'll assume your car has the big block by looking at the decals. UMI lists their 2 inch springs for small block and big block with aluminum heads and intake or an extra 1/4 with cast iron BBC. Is yours all cast iron?
 
That ride height is perfect. Having the front end lower than the rear screws so many things up. Having the front end slightly higher makes the car look strong.

You could put a nice low compression 454 in there. That will really wake things up.
 
Just put drop spindles in the front and coilovers all the way around and set it exactly where you want and retain your FE geometry.
 
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