[espos1111]

I have searched for answers on this but didn't really see the answer. Background, I'm finally getting around to body work. At one point somebody shot a thin one coat over primer over OEM finish. I'll be sanding that off but as most of the body is in great shape and the metal is straight and rust free I don't want to take the whole car down to metal.
Question.
What type of primer should I use? I'll be doing some light body work so some bare metal and filler, a couple pre-primed patch panels and mostly sanded OEM finish. I know I might be fooling myself by saying the body is in that great of shape without sanding it all down but we are all hopeful.
I don't mind getting a few kinds for the different parts of the job, then sanding down everything (leaving primer intact but sanded) then repriming the whole car with one primer and block sanding it in prep for paint.
I'm a bit overwhelmed with the choices. Last time I did any paint work was over 25 years ago and honestly I have no clue what we bought. I just remember it was a gallon can of "primer", we shot it over the OEM paint/patches at the time then shot lacquer over it. Any help would be great and sorry about the complete noob question, I'm great turning a wrench but paint scares the heck out of me after so long. Thanks ahead of time for any answers

Edit: Sorry, the finish will be a urethane bc/cc

 

[Kaizen]

Start with the unknown you will end with unknown. If you had just a faded finish and you wanted to spray i'd say maybe scratch and shoot. But where you are going down to metal in some places i'd take it all down to metal. Do you know what is on the car now for paint? you sure its factory? another way to think of this is sections, left side, trunk side, etc. taking down to metal on any of these parts say for a pinhole rust repair will be noticible as a dip if just sprayed.

 

[espos1111]

Kaizen, yes it I am 100% sure it is the factory finish under what seems like a cheap one coat paint with one coat primer (not even sure about the primer) under it. It has been on there since, my guess, the 80's. Judging from the color and amount of fade. All that is coming off (hell I can almost wipe it off with a little acetone). So I should be left with the factory lacquer finish. It is a 72 Malibu btw. I know "go big or go home" but I'm not going for a 100% show car. Just something nice to me.

 

[Kaizen]

I'm not talking about a high end paintjob either. I'd be concerned the original finish is cracking or will. Sounds like you are halfway there i'm just saying spend some more time and get to steel as best you can. Imagine spraying a new paint and having all kinds of problems. up to you. take off the first few layers like you said and decide.

 

[TechNova]

Factory 1972 paint is a poor foundation. You will never regret taking it to metal.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

Its easier, faster and CHEAPER to strip it now then in say 1 to maybe 10 15 years from now, who knows.

Might as well get your "new" piston rings and cam shaft from a junk yard motor since its not gonna be a drag car either...Eric

 

[espos1111]

Thanks for your thoughts on the matter folks. Although, Eric not sure if that was a generic line at the end there but as I said I've been turning wrenches for quite a long time I've just been out of the paint/body work game for just as long. I know the difference between mechanical and paint. Kind of apples and oranges. Rings are ground/filed to fit per cylinder, can't do that with junkyard rings but I wouldn't mind finding a junkyard posi laying around . I understand the point you were trying to make even thought it was a little insulting.