Team Chevelle banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

Rich-L79

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,300 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
In this thread: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289582 I learned that 65-67 Muncie shifters have sets of two holes for the shifter rods on the 1-2 and 3-4 arms. The upper hole is for the normal long throw shifter set up, how they were assembled at the factory. The lower holes were for setting the shifter for a shorter throw.

This new information sent me digging through my shop manuals and in the '65 Chassis Service Manual it clearly states that's why they are there. So tonight I crawled under the coupe and reset the rods into the lower holes. Once done, I didn't even need to readjust the shifter arm lengths, it was still adjusted just fine.

I rowed through the gears in the garage before I started and immediately after I was done and I can undeniably report that the shifter handle throw is greatly reduced. I'd guess it reduced the throw length by about 1/3 in all forward gears. I can't wait to take the car for a spin to see how it feels in real use. Maybe this will help me be a better and quicker shifter.

The only odd thing is that reverse still has a ridiculously long throw which feels odd after the shorter throws on 1 through 4. The additional effort required to shift with a shorter throw doesn't seem to be very much more at all. I'll report more after I go for a test drive with the "new" shifter.

Anyone else using the lower shifter arm holes for a shorter shifter throw? I think it's pretty cool that Chevy built this detail into the factory shifter. I'm surprised that none of the vintage magazine reviews of 65-67 Chevelles I've read ever mention this possibility, it seems just like the kind of tuning trick Popular Hot Rodding or similar magazines would do while running such a car through it's paces.
 
Dont take this wrong Rich but I'm surprised you didnt know that. As deep as you are into these early cars you should have run across that info a long time ago. I learned it in 1972 with my first 4 speed 67 Chevelle SS.
It really makes a big difference.
Ron
 
News to me, but the only Muncie shifter I ever had was in my 65, back in 1970. I only had that car about 2 months when I put a Hurst in it and gave the Muncie to a neighbor!

I might mod a Muncie handle for my Hurst some day, but that is about as close as I will get to an original shifter.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
Dont take this wrong Rich but I'm surprised you didnt know that. As deep as you are into these early cars you should have run across that info a long time ago. I learned it in 1972 with my first 4 speed 67 Chevelle SS.
It really makes a big difference.
Ron
The only place I found any documentation is in the aforementioned '65 Chassis Service Manual and I doubt I would have found it if I wasn't specifically looking for it. I live more in the Assembly Manual than the shop manuals anyway. The assembly manual makes no mention of this feature and clearly shows the rods being installed in the top holes which is why my shifter was assembled that way in the first place. I probably haven't seen those shifter arms up close and personal for more than a decade and I always assumed the second set of holes were used on some other Chevy installation.

One thing too is that when you drop the rods into the lower holes the 3-4 rod gets really close to the nut that holds the 1-2 lever to the transmission. It looks like they might actually touch in some gear settings. I'll have to keep an eye on that to make sure that situation doesn't cause any bind in "performance maximizing" situations. ;)

Am I the only avid 65-67 4-speed owner who didn't know about this feature? Of course for many, many years I've owned the car it had a Hurst in it anyway. I installed the Muncie shifter for the first time since I've owned the car, bought it in 1981, when I completed the 2nd full restoration back in 2000.
 
Anyone know if there are levers like that for a ST-10? I had linked here an article from CHP that showed how to shorten the trow by making new levers for the trans out of flat bar. I even made a couple sets for other guys. But they wear out rather quickly because of not being hardened.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Rich, I am not early velle guy, but my 1st M20 was a 65. Are these extra holes right at the shifter or on the tabs on the side of the trans where the rods connect?
They are in the levers attached to the side of the transmission.
 
I don't recall mine having those, but then it could have been changed over the years. Or maybe it was changed when someone put a Hurst Indy shifter on it. I had thought about adding holes to them just for this as one time, but never got around to it, now I know it can be done! :cool:
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I don't recall mine having those, but then it could have been changed over the years. Or maybe it was changed when someone put a Hurst Indy shifter on it. I had thought about adding holes to them just for this as one time, but never got around to it, now I know it can be done! :cool:
You'd have to be careful about where you put the new holes. If you go too low on the hole for the 3-4 rod, the rod will bump into the stud for the 1-2 lever.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well, and I'm talking about stock Muncie shifter rods and levers, it may be quite a bit different with later model equipment and aftermarket equipment. It also might be really hard to drill holes in the hardened steel! Buy a really good drill bit for your drill press!
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Just a little follow up. I finally drove the car with the shifter rods adjusted to the lower holes. I like it! The increase in force needed to change gears isn't really increased much but the shifter handle throw is significantly reduced. It looks like I'll have to recoordinate myself to the "new" shifter, the shorter throw kind of messed up my shifter/clutch coordination a bit. The shifts feel firmer and more positive and I don't have to lean forward off the seat to shift into third anymore!

I do have to scrutinize the adjustment though as I managed to get it stuck in 2nd and reverse at the same time. Luckily I was only a couple blocks from home in a friend's driveway when that happened and a quick once over with my handy 1/2" wrench and I was back in business.

This is a setting I would recommend to anyone with a 65-67 car and the original Muncie shifter. It feels a lot more like a Hurst this way and makes the shifts much quicker and the shifts feel a lot better.
 
Rich,

After talking to you on Saturday about this, I still can't believe after all these years of working on these cars I learn this nifty little trick. I would have thought this little bit of information would have been a little more prevalent. I can't wait until I can get under my car and change it.

Good talking to you on Saturday by the way.


Rocky
 
Ok Rich, I got the Chevelle out today and crawled under it and swapped the holes........WoW it makes it feel almost like you have a Hurst shifter in there. You were right, shortened the throw by at least a third. I love it.

You right about the long throw in reverse compared to the others now.


Rocky
 
I bought a new Hurst Comp Plus shifter a few years ago and although I hadn't had a Muncie four speed since the 80's, the throws seemed longer than I remember them being back then. Trying to lengthen the hole position and finding only one hole in each transmission arm, I first thought of drilling new holes. Yes, the arms are hardened and that would quickly wear out my drill bits, so I made new arms. Well it worked until I tried to throw a hard 2-3 shift. It locked up just about every time no matter how I adjusted the rod lengths. So, reluctantly, I went back to the original and the longer throw. But at least I can shift confidently, knowing that I won't have to pull over and lie on my back to push the shifter arm back into place.
Rich
 
If you delete the bushings from a Hurst You can use those two hole levers on a Hurst
It works really well shortens it up a lot. We used them in the day One shallow one deep
As far as the stagger and set them to where they dont rub. I used a 15 inch handle
The pattern was much like my corvette. Unbelievable. I found mine at a old dealership
 
Nothing works as well as it used to and that includes my memory. What I actually was trying to do on those arms (Trans side) was to SHORTEN the distance from the rod hole to the pivot. (You would want to LENGTHEN the arms on the shifter , but SHORTEN them on the trans) Anyway, that's my story. Blubu, apparently my comprehension is lacking as well, b/c I didn't follow what you were explaining about the Hurst shifter. Could you explain that again?
Thanks,
Rich
 
Nothing works as well as it used to and that includes my memory. What I actually was trying to do on those arms (Trans side) was to SHORTEN the distance from the rod hole to the pivot. (You would want to LENGTHEN the arms on the shifter , but SHORTEN them on the trans) Anyway, that's my story. Blubu, apparently my comprehension is lacking as well, b/c I didn't follow what you were explaining about the Hurst shifter. Could you explain that again?
Thanks,
Rich
Ok Rich
I will try If you have a Hurst competition plus shifter?
Rather than use the steel bushings or plastic delete them
The Holes in the stock levers used on a lot of Muncie OEM shifters
Using the lower holes Are the same size deleting the need or room for bushings.
The pair one for low and second and third and fourth
They will have deeper dogleg on one than the other
I had a 57 with a 15 in tall stick big throw By using stock OEM levers
The pattern was almost half what it had been previously.

Rhode Island corvette supply house has these very same levers in stock
Once you start it will become apparent what needs to go where.
If it is your thing? You can certainly pound a gear
PM me and I will tell you a procedure to adjust it to where it doesnt hang.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts