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Installing Vacuum pump in 1970 SS 396 but where to mount?

2.5K views 29 replies 10 participants last post by  DrBrown  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello guys,
Well got the big cam but now have only 8 inches of vacuum left to run my brake booster. So the brake barely work. I bought a electric vacuum pump from MP Brakes but that sucker is heavy. I planned to mount it on the drivers side inner fender where the window wash fluid container was mounted but I'm not sure the metal is thick enough to handle the 6.5 pounds that pump weighs. When this on runs there's no vibration to speak of but I'm concearned that driving the car will shack the pump around and crack the fender metal. Measured the thickness of the metal where the window washer fluid container was bolted on and it measured 0.05 inches thick. Does that sound right? Is this thick enough to handle a 6.5 pound pump without cracking the metal? Any thoughts or advice regarding the placement of this pump would be apprecaited.
Thanks,
Paul
 
#4 ·
owns 1969 Chevrolet El Camino SS396
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#5 ·
I have a 1970 Chevelle SS 396, I had to add an electric vacuum pump as well.I mounted mine on the drivers side just a few inches forward from where you where thinking of mounting yours.I made a bracket out of Aluminum, the pump mounts to it and the bracket to the front of the fender well. It seems to be fine and I have had no issues from any vibration.
Doug
 
#8 ·
Hey Guys thanks for the replies. This pump is the MP brakes silent vacuum pump. About 7 inches high. It's small. It will fit nicely where the window washer fluid jug was mounted. My only concern is that the metal there is 16-18 gauge and the vibration from driving might crack the metal. I'll post pics so you can see what I had in mind. Thanks again.
 
#10 ·
Yah that is same position that I suggested just on drivers side as opposed to passenger side. Where you are going to put the pump i have a reservoir mounted for the pump. Advantage of using other side is one could beef up the metal and would not be noticeable. I did not beef mine up however.
 
#11 ·
Brad, Thanks for your reply. That's the spot the window washing fluid jug was mounted on the drivers side. I have fiberglass inner fenders to I cannot use those at all. I thought I would mount it on the flange in the picture where the jug was. My only concern was that the metal might not be strong enough. On the other hand that part of the fender is also where the hood hinges are attached so you'd think it would be pretty strong. How could you beef up the metal? I don't want to weld on that it's only 16-18 gauge. I could put a plate on the back side but would that even do anything? A bracket to the flange but then where? If I have metal inner fenders that would have helped a lot.
 
#15 ·
. I have fiberglass inner fenders to I cannot use those at all.
Sorry I just assumed they were metal inner fenders. If they were metal they could possibly be beefed up just by adding an additional piece of sheet metal and bolting it all together.
 
#12 ·
hi
I would explore .
Have vertical sheet metal connected ,,[top] inner side fender and bottom and bent 90 deg to attach to inner wheel skirt . You would need to allow for panel flex so rubber isolation mounts would need to be at bottom panel connection .

The Pump looks like a Hella UP5 . Comparing specs will reveal details . More broadly Never ever use Chinese knock off they do not work well at all .
 
#14 ·
Swampy, You are correct. The pump says made in Germany, Hella UP5. It's very quiet and doesn't vibrate at all. It's just kind of heavy at 6.5 lbs. The concern is not that it would fall off or something but while driving the roads aren't exactly smooth so will hitting all those bumps make the pump flop around on that flange and crack the metal?
 
#19 ·
It's installed and it's not going anywhere.
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Now I got to run and 18 gauge wire to a keyed 12 volt sourse. I'm planning on plugging it into the male spade marked IGN on the fuse block. I found a nice spot to run the wire through the firewall. Only thing is my oil pressure copper tubing goes through that hole. Does the copper tube get real hot? Don't want to melt any wires or short everything out.
 
#23 ·
Are you triggering a relay with that 18 ga wire, or running the pump off of it?
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Simple solution just use a piece of heat shrink or two over the wire in the area where it is close to the tube.
Okay. Got her up a running. Brakes a better now. Still not perfect but better. Strange thing happened though. After I got down hammering on the brakes to make sure they would stop the car I parked, got out and the brake lights were on. The pedal was stuck? Got back in the car hit the pedal a couple times and it popped back up. Why would that happen?
 
#30 ·
Yes. There was a truck crate engine in it. The previous owner blew up his 396. The car was set up for street only. The mechanics told him to stay off the freeway. He didn't listen and blew the engine. Instead of rebuilding it he put in a crate truck engine. At that point the brakes didn't work well at all. I had the 396 rebuilt, put in a big cam and put her back in. Well, the brakes sucked so we started messing around with the linkage between the booster and the MC. Bad idea. I didn't know at the time that it had to be done a certain way. We managed to get the brakes working better but ruined the MC doing so. That's why I have a brand new MC. So, we set it up correctly but due to low vacuum bad brakes. So, I put in the vacuum pump. that helped a lot but it still can feel hard at times so I was thinking of putting the reservoir back in. Maybe with the pump and the reservoir that hard feeling will go away.