The problem is that each of those spade connectors is powered or protected by the adjacent fuse and have different functions.
Clock, Lighter, Courtesy fuse protects BATT terminal - this one is hot at all times

Dir Sig, Backup fuse protects IGN terminal - hot when key is in start or run and when cranking

Radio fuse protects ACC terminal - hot when key is in accessory and run, but not when cranking

You would need to use each terminal as a relay trigger to setup your own aux fuse panel.

 

The problem is that each of those spade connectors is powered or protected by the adjacent fuse and have different functions.
Clock, Lighter, Courtesy fuse protects BATT terminal - this one is hot at all times

Dir Sig, Backup fuse protects IGN terminal - hot when key is in start or run and when cranking

Radio fuse protects ACC terminal - hot when key is in accessory and run, but not when cranking

You would need to use each terminal as a relay trigger to setup your own aux fuse panel.

So what you’re saying is use the factory 3 outputs as a primary source of “power”, then branch off to 5 different outputs(5 for my use)?
Basically, Split 1 wire to 5 wires.

 

Suggest you use them to trigger a relay which would bring power from the battery then out to your loads (fuse each load separately).
Fuse battery power at the battery.

 

Any suggestions on which relays to use?

 

I agree with Levon and that's the way I use mine. I ran one 10ga from each of them to their own busbar. Pending the power type I need, the specific busbar terminals to a fuse, to a relay, to the item. I like the Painless Relays. They have outstanding wire quality and the relay sockets hard mount and mount together on a rail system if you use more than one. Makes a clean install.

Bussbar I bought off ebay:

Relays from Summit:

Mike

 

I agree with Levon and that's the way I use mine. I ran one 10ga from each of them to their own busbar. Pending the power type I need, the specific busbar terminals to a fuse, to a relay, to the item. I like the Painless Relays. They have outstanding wire quality and the relay sockets hard mount and mount together on a rail system if you use more than one. Makes a clean install.

Bussbar I bought off ebay:
View attachment 708436

Relays from Summit:
View attachment 708437

Mike

This seems intreating! Any tips on how to wire this up? I don’t think Iv don’t anything like this before.

 

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fuse-block/bussmann-6-position-atc-fuse-panel/32322_0_0

These are great for add on circuits.

 

This looks perfect for thinks I need attached strictly to BATT. But now to get something like this for ACC and IGN

 

Run a #10 wire from the battery to a small fuse box by the voltage regulator. Run all your new electric from this box. The factory fuse box is a very small box with hardly any current.. I think its fed with a #12 or #10 stranded...

 

Do you have any photos of how you did this?

 

Here is another thread on this that has some ideas in it.

Adding accessory conections to fuse box

Like a lot of you, I've been adding accessories to my 70 Chevelle. Stereo, GPS, accessory lighter plug, gauges, amplifiers - they all need power, either hot or switched. The fuse panel has one accessory plug for battery, one for switched, and one for "acc". I'd like to keep my wiring as clean as...

www.chevelles.com

 

Don't use a relay for main power to a fuse block. What you need is a Continuous Duty Solenoid. It is all about the contacts inside. The contacts inside relays are thinner and can break down and cause issues from the current changing, everytime a circuit is turned on and off. A solenoid has a solid bar that goes across two posts/contacts. The lugs on a solenoid are much larger, meaning you can put heftier cable connectors on the wire.

 

I have done what you are asking, additional circuits under the dash with their own fuses. Here is the side fuse panel I added to my 1970 way back in 1992:

Disconnect the battery, then remove the two bolts holding the fuse panel to the firewall. Behind the panel, you can identify the hot and switched wires. Sorry I cannot find my note of the wire colors. Make new wire connection to the factory wires using your preferred method, crimped or soldered. Make sure the connections are very well insulated as they are not fused!
The top terminal strip is all chassis grounds for all the added gauges, coil kill switch, etc.
The four fuses get their power from the feed wires behind the factory fuse panel, not thru the factory fuses. Two are switched power, one is battery hot, one unused for now. All wires between the panels are 14g. Please note I also replaced the factory feed wire from the horn relay to the fuse panel with new 10g.
If I were to do this today, I would choose plastic ATO blade fuses instead of the glass AGC fuses.