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66dream

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I'm in Ia. attempting to paint my dad's 50 Chevy Business Coupe.
Got it all blocked in after 2- 14 hr days and 4 of us ganging up on it.
Got ready to shoot Single Stage Sherwin Williams Dimension Pro Enamle and shot the top of the car.
The problem I'm having is:

just after I lay down the first coat of color there appears to be very evenly dispersed particles in the paint (just like dust). We think it may be from water contamination in the system. I tried different paint, different guns, different compressors, with and with out desincant snake.
Rep told me I need to try a little disposable drier at the gun.
Going to try this tomorrow when Napa opens.

Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance for any help guys.
 
The little disposable filter at the gun isn't going to stop the water, you need to fix the problem at the compressor.
I disagree with the first part of the above statement as I use them religously with excellent results and I also do agree with the second part of his statement. I paint with no issues using the same air line that when I have a blower gun attached, will intermitently spray a fine mist of moisture from the tip. I have a hell of a time keeping moisture out of my lines and can't afford the proper equipment to fix it right now.

I am wondering about your shop conditions and am going to assume that you are working out of a garage rather than a shop. First question, did you seal the primer before starting your first coat of color? Is the garage air conditioned? If not, is there a possibility that the solvent is pushing moisture out of the primer you just finished blocking? Did you do a full wipedown with DX330 or PRE and have trouble getting it all back off the panels?
 
With all of the humidity we have had in the state this week and last, I would be a little worried that you still have moisture in your primer. I am lucky to have A/C in the area that I spray which in my opinion kind of mimicks a booth atmosphere. If the small inline drier doesn't work, I would try and get a panel under a heat lamp for a cple hours and then try it.
Send me a PM in the morning with your contact info and I will help you out if I can. I have the day off.
Gary
 
I use a second tank. Get a $30 air tank and run the lines from your compressor to the tank then to the gun.
See if you can place the tank somewhere you can cool it, like a tub of water in the shade.

Every time I empty my second tank, it has a bunch of water in it. Water is easier to get out of air when it cools. The air also exits from the top and goes thru a water filter after the second tank, then one more inline filter and a throw away type on the base of the gun.

I understand the air dryers are just using A/C to cool the air to get the water out, a $30 tank in a $5 walmart trash can full of water in the shade should make a big difference.
 
I am wondering about your shop conditions and am going to assume that you are working out of a garage rather than a shop.
What's the difference? A properly piped and filtered system can be installed in either. I'm betting the OP has the airhose running right off his compressor and using an inferior filtration system, if any. And a filter at the compressor is a waste. 50 feet of piping minimum with even a cheap filter like a Devilbiss QC3 is adequate for home use.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
What's the difference? A properly piped and filtered system can be installed in either. I'm betting the OP has the airhose running right off his compressor and using an inferior filtration system, if any. And a filter at the compressor is a waste. 50 feet of piping minimum with even a cheap filter like a Devilbiss QC3 is adequate for home use.
Thanks for the input guys.This is in my brothers shop. It is a metal building, about 6 yrs old and pretty clean (no booth by no means, but about the best around here)
The primer I'm using is Sherwin Williams NP75 (basicly etch,fill,and sealer primer all in one) very good stuff, I used it before including my Chevelle with excellent results.
I did all the primer work and blocking at my dad's in his garage. When I first started shooting primer I saw moisture mixed with the primer as I was laying it down, so I used what looks like the Devilbiss QC3 (but habor frieght version) that I have had for a couple of years right at dad's airless compressor and it cleared the moisture problem right up.
Are you suggesting that I mount the Devilbiss QC3 (but habor frieght version) closer to the gun?
One other problem that I seemed to create now is a fish eye condition. After I wiped the roof down with Laquer to remove the sucky color I laided down.
 
What's the difference? A properly piped and filtered system can be installed in either. I'm betting the OP has the airhose running right off his compressor and using an inferior filtration system, if any. And a filter at the compressor is a waste. 50 feet of piping minimum with even a cheap filter like a Devilbiss QC3 is adequate for home use.

Easy Scott!!!
I was not attacking him for where he is painting and I myself am painting in a garage. I have been waiting for a buddy of mine to deliver a 60 gallon tank before I replumb the system that was already there when I arrived. I did however add filters and a reel.
I currently have a filter at the compressor, a 12 ft loop up the wall and back down with a trap at the bottom of the loop, a filter just beyond the trap and then a flex line up to my reel system, and a filter at the inlet of the reel. As stated before, I still have problems with moisture.

I am just trying to help any way I can here and was throwing out things for him to think about (S.W.A.G) They are called (Scientific Wild Ass Guesses)
 
I disagree with the first part of the above statement as I use them religously with excellent results and I also do agree with the second part of his statement.
The filter will catch some moisture the same as adding another 100 feet of hose will catch some moisture. Water will adhere somewhat to the sides of the hose and will adhere to the filter element. So in theory it is removing some moisture.
But at what point has the filter become saturated and lets all the moisture thru?
Does it reduce airflow as it becomes saturated?
The problem with these filters is they are a crutch for fixing the real problem.
I can stick my bubble gum in the hole in my boat hull and it may slow the leak but a problem will arise if I leave it that way. People buy these filters and think all their air quality problems are solved. They also keep them on there forever as there is no way to know when they are bad.
It's always best to fix a problem at the source.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Big Thanks to all of you!
We got the car shot and it turned out very nice!
Ended up creating a air supply line simular to the one described here on TC with down drop for water and air supplying a new hose at the top of the line about 6 ft up from the water trap, disposable filter at gun, and shook the paint for about 10 min., switched to airless compressor. (of all these changes not sure exaclty what was the main factor, in fact it was actually raining outside when we shot the color with excellent results.
I was just about to give up and blame the paint after pulling my hair out during all these changes. Glad I did not, Dad could not be happier. Pics to come soon.
Thanks to TC and it's wealth of information!:beers:
Only thing now, I need to color sand some small dust here and there and a couple of sags out. I posted a question about how long to wait before sanding with 1500/2000 and buffing out Acrylic Enamle? see post http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359626
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Here are some pics of Dad's 50 Business Coupe,
Sorry so long for the pics.
Thanks again for all the help guys!
 

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Dan,
Looks like all the work was worth it in the end. The car looks good. :thumbsup:
 
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