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Tim67

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Have a 67 chevelle SS with original M20 trans. Can I use a hurst comp plus with the original link rods? IS there much work involved in switiching out stock shifter to hurst? A lot of adjustments? Any info on this subject would be great, flying sorta blind here.

Thanks
Tim
 
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Pretty easy install, and not too much adjustment, just the three rods and then the travel limiters... Only takes an hour or two (maybe a bit more the first time), but not really difficult...

With Hurst, you buy a shifter and separate linkage kit...

You might need to modify/trim the floor opening slightly (from stock) with the Hurst... Very minor with a Comp-Plus. Not sure if its absolutely required, but every car I have seen had a modified shifter hole...
 
You will have to pull the trans to have enough room to bolt the shifter on. Use the rods from Hurst they have bushings on them. It took about 1 hour to change the transmission,shifter and clutch but we also were using a lift. It's not to hard of a job. It's good to have one of those plugs for the trans so that you don't leak to much grease in the floor!!
 
You will have to pull the trans to have enough room to bolt the shifter on.
I have never had to pull the trans to install a shifter... Even with the car only on jack stands... I do have to slide the large bolt thought the shifter body before lifting the shifter into position, but thats about it...
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
How do I go about adjusting the linkage. Does the trans itself have stop points inside that I just match up with the linkrods, then set the set screws on the hurst? Can I shifter to far and wreck something? Anyone have some steps to follow? Transmission Newbie :confused:

Thanks again!
Tim
 
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Tim,

Both the Hurst and the factory shifter are adjusted similarly.

The shifter itself has not detents for the gears...

On the Hurst shifter, you remove all three rods from the shifter (1-2, 3-4 and Rev). Then you place all three shift levers on the shifter body in neutral. There is a small hole that you insert a 1/4" (approx) alignment pin (drill bit or allen wrench will work too) that is inserted through the shifter body, all thre arms and through the other side of the shifter body. This will hold the shifter in nuetral...

Then with the transmission in neutral (all three levers have detents inside the transmission that hold them in gear or in nuetral)you can adjust the rod-ends/swivels on the shifter-end of the rods (one at a time)until they perfectly slide into the arms on the shifter body... Then you remove the alignment pin... The shifter should work very well now (old one may still feel loose due to wear)...

The factory shifter is similar, except the alignment pin is a flat piece of stock... I forget the dimensions, but its in the assembly manual (about 1/2 inch wide?).

There is also a secondary adjustment that has to do with the stop-bolts. These are what keep your from shifting too far and wrecking something. This keeps you from shifting too far... I am not sure on the actual procedure, but I shift back into second making sure it engages completely (car not running) and then adjust the front stop-bolt until it just hits the internal shift lever (after a while, you can feel when it hits...

I do the same with the rear bolt by shifting into 3rd... You should probably check 4th, but I am usually worried about 2nd and 3rd, because thats where I am going to be really banging gears... :D

I think Hurst web site (Mr Gasket Company) has down-loadable instruction sheets... Probably with diagrams, etc...


If you want to keep it stock looking, you can built a simple bracket (welding required) to bolt the factory Chevelle handle to the Hurst shifter body. Then it will look stock but have the better shifting of the Hurst... If you want reverse-lights, hurst sells a separate switch assembly...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the info Tony. Im sure ill have more questions down the road for yeah
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Thanks again
Tim
 
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The only other thing I might mention is to insure the reverse rod/bracket doesn't hit the trans mount if you have used a PST or other mount than stock. I did and had to trim my mount a little to clear the rod/bracket of the shifter. No big deal though.
 
Can anyone confirm that the Hurst Comp/Plus can be used with a factory console ('70) without rubbing? I have a Hurst now and it rubs the console in reverse, but I don't know the shifter part number. I know Summit website says the same shifter is used with or without console. This doesn't seem right. Anyone have any experience with this. If so, which kit did you order? Thanks!
 
Ground Up, who is a site sponsor here, sells a Hurst shifter kit that comes with a Muncie stick. I have not tried one but looks pretty good. Check out their catolog
 
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