damn sounds like it was wrecked at some point, my understanding of from steel is that its desigined to bend and be felxible, i had a broken frame on my toyota fj40 which isnt very chevelle but i just got done droppong in a 350 si its a bit closer, anyway i couldnt find a shop that would touch a frame repair due to the liability, however i did cime accross a retired man who ran a welding shop where he repaire semi frames all the time . he put a piece of 3/8 plate steel over my frame and welded along the horizontal only . he said welding along the vertical sides of the repair will create a weak spot on the frame where it will brake for sure, now he knew this frame was in for tough times in the mud , but he said that that is the way he repaired all frames, just my experience......good luck

 

I'd weld the crack, grind it down flush, then weld some re-enforcement metal over the area just for good measure. Make sure the re-enforcement is big enough to completely surround the 'stressed' area and that when you weld it you are welding it to 'unstressed' areas. that'll help distribute the forces around the questionable area.

 

Did you remove the inner fender? I bet it's cracked there too.

A lot of the Big Block cars have cracked in that same spot. My Uncle and I have been building/restoring cars together for almost 20 years. The majority of those cars have been Chevelles, and a large percentage of them have been cracked. I can't answer your question completely, (due to liability) unless I was able to see it. If there is NO other damage or bends, welding it should be enough.

Stop driving it for now and weld it before it runs or creeps any further. My frame has been welded twice on one passenger side and once on the driver's side. I think twice is enough. Now, I'm in the process of switching frames.

Just my opinion,
Jimmy

 

While you're at it, check out Pete Lohr's site and the reinforcement he did to his frame www.einstyn.com

May as well do it right.

 

Did you remove the inner fender? I bet it's cracked there too.

Yes I removed both inner fenders. I only found cracks on the two undersides of the frame.

 

If it were me I would drill through the frame at the end of the crack. Then V the complete area to be welded then weld it up. Then you can grind it down and check to see if you need to redo any of it.

 

>my understanding of from steel is that its desigined to bend and be felxible

The type of steel chosen is meant to be able to handle the stresses the frame will see and provide the performance required within the anticipated lifetime of the frame. The frame is designed to flex to some degree.

Two ways it can crack- 1) the material wastes away (rusts) to the point it can no longer support the load or 2) the repeated flexing over time work hardens the steel and it cracks.

 

Yes I removed both inner fenders. I only found cracks on the two undersides of the frame.

Sounds safe to weld it then. I've done it.

 

If it were me I would drill through the frame at the end of the crack. Then V the complete area to be welded then weld it up. Then you can grind it down and check to see if you need to redo any of it.

RIGHT ON!!!!,the holes drilled stop it from cracking more,and the weld in the v groove restore strength-67rat bob h

 

I have just done this to my Elky too. 1 crack on the outside of the frame On the RHS at the 'turn-down' of the chassis. After welding the crack and re-prepping that weld. I welded a plate and also 'bent' the plate a little to curve under the frame edge a touch,then ran a weld from the plate to the orig. rear lower control arm bracket on the frame. I figured this would give extra strength and help stop flexing caused by stress at full lock, and also strengthen the control arm bracket in the same process......time will tell I guess!........later