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adavis

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I see a lot of small and big blocks running Eagle and Scatt cast rotating assemblies. They seem very popular for street engines. Crate engine companies use them up to 475hp. I spoke to Scatt and he stated 450hp all day. Not to start a big debate over forged Vs cast, just looking for what guys are running and how much power they have. All thoughts welcome.:thumbsup:
 
I am but I have no idea how much power I'm making, probably not enough to need an aftermarket crank.
 
I see a lot of small and big blocks running Eagle and Scatt cast rotating assemblies. They seem very popular for street engines. Crate engine companies use them up to 475hp. I spoke to Scatt and he stated 450hp all day. Not to start a big debate over forged Vs cast, just looking for what guys are running and how much power they have. All thoughts welcome.:thumbsup:
While my preference is always a forged crank in a performance deal the Scat 9000 series cranks will take a lot of abuse in milder applications with limited RPM
Best (or worst depending on how you look at it :D ) example I have is a Modified Alcohol circle track deal that was about 550-600HP & ±6800 RPM as I recall
The guy ran this thing for over two seasons before he broke it (383)
Put another in & ran it for another couple of seasons,,,, same results except this time it took the block with it :(

I have at least a half dozen or so ±425HP give or take 6000 RPM 383's running around, some with a lot of mileage & I don't know of any these that have broken the crank in these kind of applications
All are Scat cast cranks, Scat I beam 7/16" capscrew rods & forged piston engines & all are internally balanced very well by me.

But again if it were me I would use a forged crank ;)
 
I'm using Scat cast cranks in my 406 (540 hp) and 383 (465 hp) and both seem to be fine. I'll run both up to 6400 rpm or so.
 
All forged rotating assembly in my motor. Never know when you will get the urge to throw the bottle at it...For the money it costs to go forged, its a no brainer to me.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I have a plan for a 383 010 two piece rear seal crank. Scatt 9000 rotating assembly, Edelbrock RPM heads. lunati 60103 227/233 489/504 Edelbrock Air Gap intake and tweaked Qjet. Hooker super comps w/ two chambers, no need to shift over 5500 rpm. Car will be street driven engine an is going in a 79 Vette.:thumbsup: I think this engine based on my research and input from this forum should live a long life.
 
You have a cast crank in the record engine?
That was my old iron headed 406--Gil Nevarez built it in the early 90's as a dyno mule to try a few things. I inherited it when he sold his Nova while my engine was still inside. I still have the rotating assembly in my shop--some day I might put it back together as a REALLY low buck piece.
 
Scatt 9000 in my 500hp 412.
 
Scatt 9000 in my 500hp 412. 6000rpm
 
Stock cast crank here , just because I had it and funds were limited. Went to 7k weekly for two seasons until I realized it wasn't doing any good,so I changed the limiter to 6800. It May blow up next week ???? Next build will prob be forged , lighter and stroked.
 
I was told since I was a youth, that a rod would go before the crank. In other words, the rods are commonly the weak link in the system so thats where I will put the beef. I'm no pro stocker and I tend to baby my car, since as a youth, I'd blow up a small block a summer. But hey, every now and then you have to have a Stang or two for dinner. Catch em at the light, devour em whole take er home and let her digest it. LOL. A guy once told me that only little boys wear bowties and I caught em with his mouth open when I said, Oh, yeah, but all little girls want Ponys. Ha ha. Any way, I will go with the cast crank, until my pockets get a little better. You guys are great and I have learned a few things from this forum.
 
Now here is a crank! Sonny Bryant Billet 4.375 Full Counter weight (8) Crank, Cross Drilled, Double keyed snout, Full REM polish
Image
 
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