[Tokyo Torquer]

The engine dyno guy hammered a hardened steel pin into the dowel hole on the flywheel flange when he dynoed it and left it in there. I am trying to get the dam thing out. I tried putting vice grips on it and hammering outwards on the vice grips to get it out, but its not moving.

I called him up and he said hammer up and down on the dowel 90* and it will come out, but hammering 90* down on the end of the crank doesnt seem like a good thing to do to me.

Anyone ever dyno an engine and use one of these dowels? How do you get them out?

thanks,

mike

 

[oldtimr]

Can you drive it all the way through? I just looked at an oem 2pc rear seal sbc crank and unless the dowel is long as hell it should drive thru. I didn't look at one in an engine though........

 

[oldtimr]

Failing in that I would drill/tap it like 3/8 or 5/16, set a a socket over it and pull it with a bolt.

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

thanks, but the crank is installed in the engine, so how would you get behind it to drive it through?

The pin is hardened steel and is probably a b*7#ch to drill... the vice grips didnt even stratch it.

 

[M.Maner]

Mike when you do get it out make sure you go over that area of the crank flange with a stone to make sure there's not a raised up area around the dowel hole that might keep the crankshaft from fitting flush agaist the flange.
Mike

 

[M.Maner]

Mike,I believe Tim was suggesting you drive the dowel toward the back of the block in an area where you might have room for the dowel to then fall out. Also try hitting the center of the dowel with a centerpunch to see how hard it is. Most dowels are soft in the middle.
Mike

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

Mike, Tim,

the dowel is about an inch long and driven into the crank flange about 1/4". There is only about 1/4" inch between the back of the crank flange and the rear main cap where the oil pan seal rides so no way to hammer it in the other way or get behind it.

mike

 

[M.Maner]

Check the dowels center for hardness. Sounds like it's time to start drilling.
Mike

 

[oldtimr]

no, I didn't mean to drive it from the engine side. That #2 post automatically assumed crank in floor. Then I retained(readin ritin retention) the part about the dyno guy and I posted post 3. Post 3 is what you need to do. drillin/tappin/pullin. Dowels drill easy usually.

 

[77 cruiser]

Cut off wheel & grind flush then drive it through.

 

[GOSFAST]

The engine dyno guy hammered a hardened steel pin into the dowel hole on the flywheel flange when he dynoed it and left it in there. I am trying to get the dam thing out. I tried putting vice grips on it and hammering outwards on the vice grips to get it out, but its not moving.

I called him up and he said hammer up and down on the dowel 90* and it will come out, but hammering 90* down on the end of the crank doesnt seem like a good thing to do to me.

Anyone ever dyno an engine and use one of these dowels? How do you get them out?

thanks,

mike

Hi Mike, it takes a special puller consisting of a slide hammer setup to remove that pin. It is the same tool that most shops use to remove the head dowel pins from the SBC's. Will remove the most "stubborn" pins!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If it's not interfering with anything you could leave it in position. It will have a very "minor" effect on the status of the balance job if it's a "standard" steel pin, if it is "tungsten" (heavy-metal) it would be wise to get it out! Whoever installed it will/should know the material!

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

Thanks guys.. I was figuring that if these dowels are standard for an engine dyno, there must be an easy trick to get them out as I assumed they dont drill and grind them out every time they take an engine off the dyno stand.

mike

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

Garry,

there is a special puller for these pins? I dont want to leave it in as it must have some effect on balance being an inch long hardened steel pin hanging off the end of the crank.

mike

 

[RB69SS396Conv]

Get yourself a "tile" or "ceramic" drill bit. Uses diamond grit as the abrasive, laughs at anything metal. Maybe $5 or so at Home Depot, Lowe's, Menard's, etc., whatever you have access to. Drill it to some convenient size you can buy, then tap it to some equally convenient size such as 7/16-14 or whatever.

Make yourself a slide hammer consisting of a piece of threaded rod of whatever size you tapped the hole to, a large nut and maybe a washer to put on the far end of the rod, and something heavy you can slide up and down the rod (excuse me) but which the nut stops. Bam, outta there.

As an example, to pull the "dowels" out of a Northstar (Caddy) block, which are about ½" ID tubing about 1/16" thick, I tap the insde of the "dowels" to ¼" pipe; and my slide hammer is a ¼" galvanized pipe nipple, screwed into an adapter, screwed into about a 2' piece of 1" pipe, with a union on the end, and a piece of about 1¼" pipe slid down it with a couple of exra fittings on it to make it heavier since I'm basically a wimp, which I then bang upwards against the union. Takes about 4 good whacks to pull one of em out of the block, and if I feel like it, they're still in plenty good enough shape to re-use even if they have over 100,000 miles on em like the ones I did this past weekend. Cost me about $3 for the ENTIRE rig. You should check out what $$$$$ special tool the service manual calls for, which largely destroys them.

 

[BillK]

Mike,
Are you sure the dyno guy put it there and it was not there from the start ?? If you engine is external balance the pin is used to properly install the flywheel. Other than that, it wont hurt a thing, just leave it there. If it really bothers you, use a cut off wheel to get rid of most of it and grind it flush to the flywheel flange. It is not enough to affect balance.

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

Mike,
Are you sure the dyno guy put it there and it was not there from the start ?? If you engine is external balance the pin is used to properly install the flywheel. Other than that, it wont hurt a thing, just leave it there. If it really bothers you, use a cut off wheel to get rid of most of it and grind it flush to the flywheel flange. It is not enough to affect balance.

Bill

Absolutely sure. The engine is also internal balance. I talked to him about it.. he said he needed it for the dyno hook up.

mike

 

[Wolfplace]

Bill

Absolutely sure. The engine is also internal balance. I talked to him about it.. he said he needed it for the dyno hook up.

mike

=
The tool Gary is referring to is a slide hammer with a collet attachment used for removing head dowels, flywheel dowels etc & any shop that surfaces flywheels should have one
http://www.goodson.com/technical_support/instructions/GA-600.pdf

Another option is to weld a nut to the dowel & attach a regular slide hammer into the nut

I have no clue why you would need the dowel to attach the engine to the dyno, that makes no sense at all.

 

[TCSS1970]

Use a cobalt drill. Center punch it and use some oil on the drill. Dowell pins are only case hardened and they will drill. After you get .030 or so below the surface it is soft. Drill and tap it the smallest you got. 10-32 or a 1/4-20. Do what old timer said. It will work. If I was there it would be out in 5 min. tops. If you don't do this sort of thing often take your time. Drill it and tap it and you'll have it out in 15 to 20 min. Be careful and don't break the drill or the tap. You don't need to drill it all the way thru just a half inch or so. Tap by hand so you can feel when it get to the bottom so you don't break the tap. It will jack out of there so easy you will not believe it. Don't worry about the small bolt size. Good luck.

 

[Tokyo Torquer]

=
The tool Gary is referring to is a slide hammer with a collet attachment used for removing head dowels, flywheel dowels etc & any shop that surfaces flywheels should have one
http://www.goodson.com/technical_support/instructions/GA-600.pdf

Another option is to weld a nut to the dowel & attach a regular slide hammer into the nut

I have no clue why you would need the dowel to attach the engine to the dyno, that makes no sense at all.

Thanks Mike and to all who offered suggestions. I like Mike Lewis' and Gary's idea on the special puller tool. I have bought tools from Goodson before and they were great to deal with and offer better prices direct than from the distributors. It is need, cleans and keeps sharp cutting tools away from my expensive new Callies Magnum crank. Now that I am aware of the existence of the tool, I am leaning towards that, but will first ask the dyno operator if he has one I can borrow. Buying all tese tools to fix his oversights is getting expensive as I also had to get a pilot bearing remover to get out the small ID pilot bearing that he also left in the end of the crank.. another item he needed when he hooked the engine up to the Land & Sea dyno.

mike

 

[Wolfplace]

Thanks Mike and to all who offered suggestions. I like Mike Lewis' and Gary's idea on the special puller tool. I have bought tools from Goodson before and they were great to deal with and offer better prices direct than from the distributors. It is need, cleans and keeps sharp cutting tools away from my expensive new Callies Magnum crank. Now that I am aware of the existence of the tool, I am leaning towards that, but will first ask the dyno operator if he has one I can borrow. Buying all tese tools to fix his oversights is getting expensive as I also had to get a pilot bearing remover to get out the small ID pilot bearing that he also left in the end of the crank.. another item he needed when he hooked the engine up to the Land & Sea dyno.

mike

=
You need a pilot bearing to align the dyno shaft but I just leave them in as they are deep enough to cause no issue with an automatic
The damn pin is another story,, it serves no purpose other than being an alignment dowel for the flywheel so some dummy does not install it in the wrong position if externally balanced,,

As far as the balance statement stated above about it making no difference I do not agree with this at all
A stock dowel is about 17gms & a Tungsten one is double that & we use them to trim balance in a some cases,, especially the Tungsten ones

If Carl balanced your crank I can assure you 17 or more grams added to your crank after the fact would not make him a happy camper :noway: