I had a problem with one of the tri-power carbs I was installing on the BBC. I had about a week before I was supposed to dyno my motor and take it home, so time was an issue.

I got great help from both a Member here and from Holley.

I called Holly and spoke with them about a new metering block to replace the one I screwed up. I was told the part was no longer stocked, but that they would make me a new one...from scratch...for $29..2-3 week wait. That was 1-2 weeks beyond my deadline, but I decided to order it anyway as at that time I hadn't been in contact with Eric.

Eric Jackson (www.vintagemusclecarparts.com/) was able to help me out in no time. I'd recommend contacting him. Excellent down to earth guy.

Eric did a turnaround repair on my old one and had it back in my hands in a 3 days with all new gaskets, and extra set of drillable metering block inserts, and a new vacuum nipple I needed for the manifold Total bill was $25. He also told me he could get me a replacement metering block, but that it would take a lot longer.

What really surprised me was that I received the new part from Holley within a few day's of Eric's package.

Hope that helps.

 

I got great help from both a Member here and from Holley.

I called Holly and spoke with them about a new metering block to replace the one I screwed up. I was told the part was no longer stocked, but that they would make me a new one...from scratch...for $29..2-3 week wait. That was 1-2 weeks beyond my deadline, but I decided to order it anyway as at that time I hadn't been in contact with Eric.

Eric Jackson (www.vintagemusclecarparts.com/) was able to help me out in no time. I'd recommend contacting him. Excellent down to earth guy.

Eric did a turnaround repair on my old one and had it back in my hands in a 3 days with all new gaskets, and extra set of drillable metering block inserts, and a new vacuum nipple I needed for the manifold Total bill was $25. He also told me he could get me a replacement metering block, but that it would take a lot longer.

Wow, I'm impressed with both those stories. I'm not opposed to sending my carb off for repairs (espcially at those prices!), but I really like to screw things up myself. I was thinking Holley just replaced this part number with "pre-metered" part numbers. For example:

(Note: These don't line up properly in the post but you see what I mean I hope)
SEC. METERING PLATE PART # EQUIVALENT MAIN JET PART #
34R5113-3 122-65
34R9716-3 122-56
34R9716-6 122-69
34R9716-12 122-73
34R9716-22 122-65
34R9716-27 122-79
34R9716-32 122-59
34R9716-34 122-53
34R9716-54 122-75
34R9716-59 122-56

 

As you see ,34R-9716B is a casting number used for a few different metering plate's.
Do you know what the actual p/n is or post the carb list # and we'll find it.

 

Well, I thought the casting number was the part number... sorry. The carb is a 4160 as far as I can tell. It has a "LIST-3310-3 1589" on the raised choke plate housing of the throttle body and also "6R-6931 B" on the round horizontal part of the throttle body next to the choke plate housing. If there is another place to look for this information please let me know. Thanks.

 

Remove the plate and put a block on it. The kit for this from Holley is less than $50.00 and then you can jet it the way you need to. You MAY need a different fuel line but it is worth it. The kit converts a 4160 to a 4150 and with the block the center to center length is longer on the 4150.

 

Apparently the Guru at Holley couldn't figure this out ,so your stuck with us.
Anyway ,as posted - http://www.holley.com/134-21.asp

And you might be better off to go to the block -as posted.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R8110 scan.pdf

What looks like cracks on your metering plate are normal. I've seen that on a lot of them. I also say get the secondary block conversion, it gives you more tunability and looks cooler too.

Hmmm.
I bought the trick-kit already, but three guys with 17,414 combined posts all suggest I go with the 4160-4150 conversion. I'd be stupid not to listen .

That's good info to know that small cracks might be okay, but this plate was mounted wrong in the past and the alignment dowels/pins are bent downward slightly. I should probably get a new plate or should go for conversion.

Thanks for the links and help. :thumbsup::thumbsup: !! Does it make any difference that this carb is mounted onto a Weiand 2P 180?

 

3310-3

750

72

134-21 (metering plate)

6.5

4160
--------------

Carb ID

CFM

Jet

MP ID

Power valve

Carb series

 

Apparently the Guru at Holley couldn't figure this out ,so your stuck with us.
Anyway ,as posted - http://www.holley.com/134-21.asp

And you might be better off to go to the block -as posted.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R8110 scan.pdf

 

What looks like cracks on your metering plate are normal. I've seen that on a lot of them. I also say get the secondary block conversion, it gives you more tunability and looks cooler too.

 

Manifold shouldn't have any effect on the plate/block.
If you don't need/want the tuning capability and you were running fine ,just replace the plate.
If you want to have tuning ability (on secondary side) then go with the block.
Add to the cost of the block a couple jet's and a fuel line.
That add's up so consider your budget vs look's.

 

If it's a stock 1850, it's got side hung bowls. The conversion kit has all the gaskets and a new transfer tube. You'll just need jets to tune, which you ought to have with a holley anyhow.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/34-6/10002/-1?parentProductId=749205

 

I've had Eric Jackson restore a couple of 4346 Holleys for our cars. The one for our COPO car was a real blister and it still came back looking like it was new from Holley. Eric's restoration work is second to none. He even called me at one point while doing the carbs.

 

If that is a crack it is the cause of your secondaries dripping fuel. You can do two things here. IF you are a tinkerer, get a metering block kit. If you're not, buy the plate and forget it. Easy way to verify if the plate is cracked is to just take it off. This can be done very easily with a flat head screw driver w/right sized head, or with a Swiss Army knive's SMALL flat head end on the can opener side. It fits perfectly; I use this when working on a Holley with a metering plate. BTW- if you choose to go with the plate, make SURE that the metal plate under the "jet plate" is F_L_A_T. A plate that isn't quite flat will leave you with an internal leak that will have you tearing your hair out. I know, been there, done that. Hammer it out on flat steel if you have to. Again, I'm talking about the flat plate UNDER the jet plate in your picture, not the jet plate itself.

Unless you are going for a restoration/rebuild, I'd do it yourself. A Holley is SUPER easy to rebuild yourself, but use only Holley parts with it.

 

If that is a crack it is the cause of your secondaries dripping fuel. You can do two things here. IF you are a tinkerer, get a metering block kit. If you're not, buy the plate and forget it.

BTW- if you choose to go with the plate, make SURE that the metal plate under the "jet plate" is F_L_A_T. A plate that isn't quite flat will leave you with an internal leak that will have you tearing your hair out. I know, been there, done that. Hammer it out on flat steel if you have to. Again, I'm talking about the flat plate UNDER the jet plate in your picture, not the jet plate itself.

What's the secret to getting all these 30-year-old paper gaskets off? I took the plate off and the crack doesn't go through. But that plus the bent alignment pins make me want a new plate. As for the other plate.... I didn't even know there was another plate. So I checked the exploded diagram and item 68, which looks like a gasket, is actually a "secondary metering body plate". Thanks:thumbsup: for the heads up.

EDIT: I have center hung floats.

 

You can get a new metering block for the rear and new bowel kit and you will have a duel feed carb.:thumbsup:..But then it might be easier to get a new carb.

 

New plate ordered. This is just a cruiser not a racer and getting the bumpers rechromed was expensive. Gotta save $ where I can and the car ran great before. I'll be soaking these gaskets off for days. So by next weekend maybe it'll be back together again.
Thanks again. Everyone's help was amazing. :thumbsup:

 

if you decide to go for the block be sure there's enough room for moving the float bowl back 3/4" or so, sometimes there's interference with power brake lines, etc. look carefully at what's behind and below the carb.

for a normal street car you don't a block, the plate will do fine. you don't need the extra metal plate either. Holley quit using those altogether.

You've got the original gaskets with the dry set glue. Soapy water will never get them off. If you want to soak you'll need something like Berryman Chemtool in a can, not a spray can. Easy-Off oven cleaner works too, but might take the plating off, which is not really a big deal. Use the blue non-stack gaskets going back together.

Did I just double your post count?

 

Tom,
Man you just made me feel a lot better. I spent hours last night pulling tiny shards of gasket off and NEVER found another metal plate. I got on this morning to ask if anyone had ever heard of secondaries not having that plate. <whew>.
I soaked the bowl edges in denatured alchohol all night and it softened the glue a little, but not really enough. I'll get some Chemtool today.

THANKS!

 

The current 'politically correct' Berrymans isn't the industrial strength it once was so let it soak longer.
Think you'll want the 'Chemdip' ,not the 'Chemtool'

 

Lucky you! Holley must have realized what a PITA that "plate" plate was and they went ahead and redesigned the new metering plates. I have an older carb with an older metering plate, therefore I use the plate. I tried not using it when I was troubleshooting my carb, and it didn't eliminate my problem. Put the plate back in after beating it out on some flat steel, it worked fine as the diagram shows. The reason why a lot of older carbs are missing that plate is people were careless and threw them out, couldn't get them scraped clean, or they couldn't get them flat enough to fit right.

You can get most of the stuff off with a stripper or some sort of solvent, but chances are you'll have to scrape the body with a razor blade at an angle. If you're careful, it will work fine. Luckily for you, since you are getting a new plate, you don't have to scrape your old plate or the paired plate. Be sure to check your float while it's all apart.

 

re: the thin sheetmetal metering plate reinforcement plates--

On 4160 carbs which have a power valve cavity on the secondary side of the main body, they require the steel reinforcement plate to provide metering plate gasket support over the power valve cavity.

On 4160 carbs which do not have a power valve cavity on the secondary side of the main body, the reinforcement plate is not used/necessary.

hth

 

A thing I like to do when rebuilding is use a fine bastard file on the flat surfaces of the main body.You would be surprised at how warped it is on all 3 surfaces.This isn't something Ive made up in case your sceptical its in the Holley rebuild manual.One of the manuals I have anyway.

 

if you don't like the bent pins you can knock them off with a cutter of whatever kind, or grind, or anything. You don't need them either. The plate is located by the countersunk screws anyway.

Eric is right about the thin metal plate needed if there's a power valve cavity in the rear. 3310-3, I don't remember whether it does or not. I don't think so.

 

I have a power valve "cavity" but no power valve. That is, it looks like the bowl was set up for a power valve but never drilled for mounting screws.

So I need the thin reinforcement plate? This carb never had one. The metering plate I ordered looks like it comes with a rigid brown gasket. Is that a substitute or do I need to find a reinforcement plate? :sad:

Float looks okay, but float bowl and float bowl valve were really dirty. I think the fuel cutoff valve weight (the needle-weight thing inside the float bowl adjusting mechanism) was probably stuck open.

 

The main body of the carb is what Vintage Musclecars is talking about, not the bowl. It makes sense to me about why that "plate" is needed. It seems to me that it makes the channels in the actual metering plate work properly. Otherwise, you have a portion of teh secondary plate that at some point will not be "flush" after being constantly soaked in gas.

You CAN get it, and it's cheap insurance. Well worth the under ten dollars for it shipped to your door. That's IMHO..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEPE...tem5d2e79159eQQitemZ400211645854QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

The lack of that plate may be the source of your issues.

 

don't forget if you rin the thin metal plate you also need the thin paper gasket to go with it.

 

Tom, the trick-kit seems to have lots of gaskets, shouldn't it be in there? How will I know? Pictures anyone?

 

did you buy the block kit or are you going back with the plate?

it's the same shape as the metering plate and the steel shim plate.

 

Just the plate. So it's the brown gasket that came with the new metering plate correct?

You'll get the gasket with the actual metering PLATE, it's the brown one in the picture you mentioned. It probably isn't as rigid as you think, it's actually pretty thin. You MIGHT get one on the trick kit, so you'll have an extra.

IIRC, the order is as follows working from the main body out..1)Bowl/BOdy gasket 2)Metering plate PLATE ie. the one off of Ebay 3)Gasket that comes with the metering plate 4)Metering plate itself.

Excellent info, thanks. I did get another brown gasket in the Trick-kit. FYI: The old gasket(s) came off fairly well by soaking in denatured alcohol (~2days) and then scraping with a plastic scraper, followed by a green scotch pad. I'll have more questions I'm sure. There were two large square mounting gaskets divided by a mounting plate under the carb, for the intake. Those didn't line up very well with the carb base. Are there are better gaskets/plates for the setup? The intake is for a spreadbore (?) IIRC.

 

You'll get the gasket with the actual metering PLATE, it's the brown one in the picture you mentioned. It probably isn't as rigid as you think, it's actually pretty thin. You MIGHT get one on the trick kit, so you'll have an extra.

IIRC, the order is as follows working from the main body out..1)Bowl/BOdy gasket 2)Metering plate PLATE ie. the one off of Ebay 3)Gasket that comes with the metering plate 4)Metering plate itself.

Good call deciding to get the plate, IMHO. It should have been there to begin with if you have the PV channel in the main body. Holley is like any other company, they put something there for a reason and if at some point they feel it isn't necessary, they redesign it not to use it. After a quick look at the Holley site, Holley didn't redo the plates, only the carbs. What works on a new carb might not be right for the old stuff.

FWIW, perhaps the 3310's have the PV channel because they are more likely to have a change to a metering block. I have an 1850-3, and it does not have a Pv channel.