[Jim_66SS]

I have been trying to keep everything original or find a numbers correct engine parts, if a PO has replaced something. But I’am getting a little fed-up with some engine leaks. Has anyone got an old VC to seal and not leak? The main leaks are at the corners. You never know when you have to pull a cover, so I don’t want to seal everything up that it’s almost impossible to get the cover off.

Do you think a heavy beat of black RTV at the corners and a very light bead along the bottom of the VC with the gasket applied to get everything level might work? And then a very light bead of RTV along the sealing surface of the head. Am I going to be able to get the VC off without bending or damaging the VC?

 

[jeff swisher]

Valve cover must be flat and not pushed up in the corners.
I use 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive to hold my cork gasket to the valve cover.
Nothing but some oil on the head where it seals.
After the cork soaks up some engine oil it will swell and seal.

Easy to remove from the head that way.

If you silicone the cork gasket you most likely will have a leak.
Those rubber gaskets always leak a little and I will not use them.

Never use Red silicone.
If you must use a silicone then go for Ultra black or Ultra grey.

I have made my own very tall VC gasket with Ultra Black.
Never leaked. It is called gasket maker not gasket helper.

 

[Jim_66SS]

Thanks. My issue is the VC doesn’t lay flat, it is up in the corners. I was thinking of trying to get it flat by using Black RTV as a layer between the Gasket and the VC

 

[RPS]

Hammer and dolly maybe?

 

[jeff swisher]

I have to hammer every used valve cover to make it flat or it will leak.
You could also put some soft jaws or wood blocks in a vise and clamp the ends in there and bend them if you do not like tapping on the metal.

Straighten them do not band aid it with silicone.

But if you are going to go the silicone path use one of the Ultra ones and let it cure completely and that will be 24 hours or more.

 

[cherokeepeople]

looks like where the triangular retainers under the bolt sit they are deformed from getting cranked down.they need to be flat where the bolts go.also there are wide retainers like these.https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Moroso-68526-Valve-Cover-Hold-Down-BBC-Blue,528971.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4LXA5prhhQMVQCGtBh1D0wakEAQYEiABEgLNhvD_BwE

 

[LeoP]

I had an old mechanic tell me years ago, no silicone with gaskets. I word I live by today. Good luck!!

 

[Steve69SS396]

No need for silicone on a valve cover gasket. A nice thick cork gasket works great. Make sure you don't over torque the fasteners. Valve covers don't need to be that tight to seal. I also like using the spreaders that spread the pressure applied by the fasteners and studs with nuts.

Trans-Dapt Performance Products 9640 Trans-Dapt Performance Chrome Valve Cover Spreader Bars | Summit Racing

 

[Jim_66SS]

I am trying to maintain the original look, it has the RSB bolts, and possibility the original triangular spreaders. Looks like I will try to bend the VC straight and dolly out the imperfections at the bolt holes.

I have to hammer every used valve cover to make it flat or it will leak.
You could also put some soft jaws or wood blocks in a vise and clamp the ends in there and bend them if you do not like tapping on the metal.

Straighten them do not band aid it with silicone.

But if you are going to go the silicone path use one of the Ultra ones and let it cure completely and that will be 24 hours or more.

 

[427L88]

Jim I ;ve used a correct length 2X4 to sit the VC on and use some careful soft mallet work on the flip side.

running a cam that needed lash checked periodically, i;ve gone to gluing the cork gaskets to the VC in the corners with HiTack. For some reason I still do that to make inspection easy. I dont think it helps rear corner leaks tho.

 

[mrpaticular]

Get yourself 2 pieces of 1/8" plate about 1 /12" wide and fasten them to a good square edge 2x4. Fasten the ends creating a place where the VC can lay between without moving. Get another piece and tap down the high spots. Always use the spreaders.

 

[mrpaticular]

Pure cork gaskets are porous. Rubber came out and went away to those in the know.
I only put slight grease on both sides of the gaskets just to keep them from sticking. Never tight, just snug. Cast head or aluminum and thin valve covers heat and cool at different rates.
I have a 6" level I lay acrosss the bolt holes just to check. In the dark with a flash light.
Rick

 

[Jim_66SS]

Thanks every one. Just finished the install. I worked out the little imperfections that someone created by tighten the bolts to much. I also did a little bending to get them to lay pretty much flat. I followed Jeff’s suggestions, 3M to hold the gaskets in place (with a little thicker at the corners). Then just a little smear of Lithium on the heads.

I had a disaster with a SB valve cover. Drove too soon or not tight enough. Had to clean the hole passenger side of the engine bay. I plan to bring up the engine temps then let it cool a couple of times. Hopefully no leaks.

I wanted to clean and wire brush the exhaust manifolds and apply a coating of Colax.

 

[68Chevele]

You need these on your guys engines, work great for me.

https://www.jegs.com/i/RPC/707/R9640/10002/-1

 

[Jim_66SS]

Work great, but doesn’t look very 1966. May have to use them on the two lower outside bolts.