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Va72Chevelle

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm getting prepped to swap frames on a 72 convertible.

I would like to brace the frame without welding anything to the body itself. Does anyone have pictures of bracing that utilizes plates bolted to the door hinge and striker bolts?
 
There was a post a while back of something similar. In that post someone had also linked to a commercial solution that would do what you're saying but they were prohibitively expensive IMO. I had considered something similar with tubing in the front that would fit inside tubing in the back. Slide the tubes together, attach the end to the vehicle by extending or retracting the small tube from the big tube. once you have the ends done you can weld the deam where the small tube going into the big tube.
 
steve is your car all together and finished and that's why you don't want to weld anything in?

joe having a hard time with your description. You mean having something run up under the rocker panels on both sides and jack from there ?
I think this would work if this is what you mean but not sure with the front end on it. guess all my thoughts of how it would work lead to the front end and rear being supported. also would worry about across the body but I guess that could be attached at the door strikers.
 
a plate that can bolt to the body in place of door hinges with a large diameter pipe.
a plate to bolt to the striker location with a slightly smaller diameter pipe.
slide the small pipe into the large pipe until both plates can be bolted to body.
weld two pipes together once the plates are bolted up.
it's adjustable and nothing get's welded to the body.
Do one of these on each door opening.
cross braces from one side to the other can be welded in. Welded to the tubing, not your car body.



I think I'm on a different page here. ignore me haha. :D
 
I made braces for the body by using left and right hand threaded heim joints on the end of some .500 diameter cold rolled steel. I used a 1/8 inch thick angle iron that I bolted to the door latch bolt. I bolted to that and to the door hinge bolts. There are pictures in my albums.
 
I made braces for the body by using left and right hand threaded heim joints on the end of some .500 diameter cold rolled steel. I used a 1/8 inch thick angle iron that I bolted to the door latch bolt. I bolted to that and to the door hinge bolts. There are pictures in my albums.
I am going to use those ideas when I align my cowl if I ever finish it. But the op has a convertible which adds to the need for bracing.

If anyone has braced like this how was it lifted on a vert?
 
I used 2 chain hoists. 1 in the front hooked to both firewall mounting brackets. a second hoist was over the back window. I don't have one anymore so I did it with the top up. If your top and window are intact, put the top down and remove the back seat. hook the chain in two places on the back seat metal.

That's how I lifted my 69 ragtop after welding in braces where the doors go. Bolted braces in the door location should perform the same duty as the ones I used.

A thought here.. With my top up and latched it added more rigidity to the body so perhaps lifting with the top down is a poor idea.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Next question: I'm getting ready to remove the body bushing bolts. Given that the frame itself is rusted, I think it's a given that the bolts are going to be rusted and aren't going to come out easy.

I want to do the drill a hole in the trunk floor and spray PB blaster approach. I want to avoid the plumb bob/straightedge approach if possible. Does anyone have reference points in the trunk where I should drill?
 
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