[Chris_69_SS]

So, it has been 2 summers since I have taken my ride to the track. Usually, my car runs (or ran) 11.30-50 at 118-121. Short times in the low 1.6X range.

I am getting the urge to finally have a real 10 second STREET car. I know, not really fast as these days lots of guys have 9 second rides on the street but…..

My combo is as follows:

3700 lbs 69.
454, .030 over
Ported 049 heads (upper 290s on good intake), 2.3 / 1.88s
UD 288/296 Solid FT, 110LSA ( 255/263, .612, .620)
Holley 950hp, Vic Jr
2” / 3.5” headers (3” mandrel bent FULL exhaust)
TH400, FM VB, Reverse pattern
BTE 9” stall, 50 degree positive fin angle, 3700 stall
4.10 gears
No slicks right now so waddya suggest (no wheel lip rolling on this car though)

So, based on the above criteria & combo, how would YOU go about getting “there”? “There” to me is 10.70s.

A few of my thoughts:

- Ideally keep my 049 heads but would like thoughts on AFR 305s / RR Ovals / Dart Pro1s….cnc chambers?
- Swap out stall to 8”?
- Keep cam or go solid roller?
- Stroker kit to 489?

Let the bench racing session begin!

 

[dirtlips408]

What about keep it the same and add a small nitrous kit???

 

[OutCast]

Looks like a good setup. How do you like the cam ?
Is it this one http://lunaticams.com/Product.aspx?id=2044&gid=248

I was considering that one myself this winter.

I 2nd Ron's idea on the nitrous. I run a little 150 shot and it's alot of fun.

 

[Chris_69_SS]

No NOS for me. shoulda mentione it has to be N/A.

 

[65lkey]

No NOS for me. shoulda mentione it has to be N/A.

well it will be n/a till you hit the button. haha. FourEightyNine is running in the 10s n/a, he's storked to a 489 with a solid roller, 8" 4.10's and some slicks.

 

[dirtlips408]

If no spray then I think all ya need is a nice solid roller and a 8" ATI/Coan converter and you should be well into the 10's.

 

[Chris_69_SS]

well it will be n/a till you hit the button. haha. FourEightyNine is running in the 10s n/a, he's storked to a 489 with a solid roller, 8" 4.10's and some slicks.

hopefully he'll chime in with his combo / thoughts / experience.

Thanks,

 

[brngrhd]

well if you have no problem droping the money for a stroker kit..... take it out to .060 over throw a 1/4 stroke at it and some good compression and your there easy. although you would need a new cam to get that combo perfect. if your heads have been ported then they will be fine for a build like that. different heads will pick us some but not needed.

might as well sell your current set up and build a whole new one and go for the nines LOL.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I think your goin to need 100hp more . a solid roller and some heads will do it !
sell those heads you have on the classified section ,and get some afr 305s.

 

[FourEightyNine]

hopefully he'll chime in with his combo / thoughts / experience.

Thanks,

Keep your heads they are fine. I am running 702 closed chambers on my combo:yes:

Might wana try to find a used edelbrock rpm intake, to test. It should help out the first half especially on a 454 compared to a stroked one.

Well you gotta get your 60ft time down. Whats your suspension looking like?

For a tire the 30X9" hoosier co7 works well for me, it would probably fit the wheel well without cutting if you put it on a 15X8 wheel. Mine is on a 15X10 and I cut the wheel lip just to have plenty of clearance.

You have plenty of mph I went 10.700 @ 121.3 two weeks ago, but my 60ft was 1.435.

 

[RyanS]

I am going to offer something different. You MPH is fast enough for a high 10, but your 60ft needs to be a low 1.5x. Work on your 60ft time and the 10.9x will come. Plus it is a lot cheaper than a head swap. Slicks or Drag Radials, adjust on /tune the suspension to get your 60 ft time down.

Ryan

505ci AFR 315 heads
1.39 60 ft
9.97 @ 132.74

 

[Rmchevelle]

Chris, Remember "mr68"? He went aluminum heads to get there.

Let the bench racing session begin!

I have lots of thoughts on this one, in fact, this is THE combo I bench race about. I'm putting together the parts to do this with my '70 project but my goal is to do it with GM iron heads and a solid flat tappet, all while keeping it streetable. This is the pinnacle of a street/strip car for me! With the infinite knowledge of the thousands of people posting on this board I would think this would have been figured out already! I bet there are guys lurking out there who have done this but haven't posted or only post occasionally.

I've felt that your car should have been in the 10's years ago. I keep rooting for ya'. Then I was bummed to see you were selling the drivetrain and returning the car to stock.

I feel like it's there but you haven't found that "just right" combination of parts or tune up. I think you have everything you need except for 1 or 2 key pieces. You have the cam, carb, heads, gear, tranny.

Here's my list of stuff I would try:
#1 - 8" converter. This should pick up the 60'.
#2 - RPM intake
#3 - smaller headers

 

[FourEightyNine]

Chris, Remember "mr68"? He went aluminum heads to get there.

I have lots of thoughts on this one, in fact, this is THE combo I bench race about. I'm putting together the parts to do this with my '70 project but my goal is to do it with GM iron heads and a solid flat tappet, all while keeping it streetable. This is the pinnacle of a street/strip car for me! With the infinite knowledge of the thousands of people posting on this board I would think this would have been figured out already! I bet there are guys lurking out there who have done this but haven't posted or only post occasionally.

Mine has gm iron heads, and my solid roller is smaller than chris's. I drive mine to and from the track.:yes:

 

[mr 4 speed]

Chris,not going for the stock 396 look now?

 

[Chris_69_SS]

Mine has gm iron heads, and my solid roller is smaller than chris's. I drive mine to and from the track.:yes:

What stall rear gear are you running?

What about front & rear suspension?

I run boxed upper & lower SSM bars (lowers are in the stock location...no lowering bracket)
shocks are KONI adjustable musclecar replacement shocks on all 4 corners (Have not raced with these on yet...they replaced POS CE drag shocks...
front susp is stock other than the shocks mentioned.

I am thinking that 8'' stall for sure..... Love to hear stories good & bad from folks driving these on the street / highway.

May even try an E-brock performer RPM or air gap version.....just to get it to help out even more on the 60'

I think after that I am going to tune suspension / tires with hopes that can get me there.

 

[Rmchevelle]

Mine has gm iron heads, and my solid roller is smaller than chris's. I drive mine to and from the track.:yes:

Post the full specs for comparison. What's the cost comparison?

 

[Chris Stanwyck]

You have a killer combo as we speak. Very impressive.
Changes with your present displacement and heads will have to be too vigorous to achieve 10.70's. NItrous (hidden) and 9" slicks will do it.....and then some. Think about it. I did it with a 468 (Ls6 with RR ovals) + 150 shot and luved the nitrous....did a 10.77.
Just my 2 cents but I think you should save your $'s and buy displacement & heads to achieve your goals. Then selloff leftover parts and then try to figure out why you can't hook any more.

Killer combos are tough animals to achieve.....especially when wanting more when you are at or near maximum with present your combo.
I really respect guys like Bob West who find a way to use extra power and hook up at the same time. Not easy. I know.

 

[FourEightyNine]

What stall rear gear are you running?

8" ATI mrt treemaster, 4.11

What about front & rear suspension?

santhuff springs, CE 3way shocks

moroso trick springs
summit 3 ways
umi lowers, hitckiks uppers
hrpartsnstuff anti roll bar

I run boxed upper & lower SSM bars (lowers are in the stock location...no lowering bracket)
shocks are KONI adjustable musclecar replacement shocks on all 4 corners (Have not raced with these on yet...they replaced POS CE drag shocks...
front susp is stock other than the shocks mentioned.

I am thinking that 8'' stall for sure..... Love to hear stories good & bad from folks driving these on the street / highway.

I run mine on the street like I stated, works fine. Just bought the biggest cooler I could find, never had any problems.

May even try an E-brock performer RPM or air gap version.....just to get it to help out even more on the 60'

I think after that I am going to tune suspension / tires with hopes that can get me there.

Post the full specs for comparison. What's the cost comparison?

Sure it costs more but makes alot more power per dollar than most other parts provide. I think Chris's cam is just fine.:yes:

Comp cams XR286 on a billet core and 107lsa
ntake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 248
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 254
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 248 int./254 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 286
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 292
Advertised Duration: 286 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.653 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.660 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.653 int./0.660 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 107custom grind
Intake Valve Lash: 0.016 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.018 in.

 

[beatnik]

ttt