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Getting closer to 11's with budget 454!

2.7K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  Rmchevelle  
#1 ·
Here’s a pic at the starting line last Friday night at Muncie dragway launching at 4000 rpm. Made 3 passes, car ran quicker each pass with a best time of 12.17 @112.27 mph. 60 foot time was 1.70. Temp outside was upper 50's.
Previous best last year was 12.4 @ 111 mph.
 

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#2 ·
Looks good!!!
 
#4 ·
Congrats! Keep at it. You'll be in the 11's before you know it. :thumbsup:

Did you change anything since last year? Or just driving it a little different?
 
#5 ·
Only changes made was a new 780 cfm 4150 Prosystems carb from Patrick. I previously was using an old Speed Demon 750. Never could get the off idle stumble out of that carb. The prosystems carb runs excellent, no stumble and very responsive! I also put a fresh set of spark plugs in. Went from autolite 65's to 66's.
 
#10 ·
I'm hoping it will hold up. :eek: The previous M20 I had in it twisted the input shaft and broke a couple teeth off of first gear! I rebuilt this one with the help of Jody at Jody's Transmissions. He supplied me with a new super case and m22 gearset. It also has the cast iron mid-plate. I really need to find some place to get the car weighed. I'm guessing close to 3900 lbs. I run it in full street trim with exhaust hooked up, front and rear stablizer bars, etc. I do run the jegster lift bars instead of the factory boxed lower control arms. They help eliminate wheel hop also.
 
#11 ·
My bet is one of these will get you there with no other changes. :thumbsup: http://grannys.tripod.com/hillbillyclutchslipper.html
I've never seen or heard of these before. Very interesting. Has anyone been able to install one of these on a chevelle? I would love to hear how it worked for them and see pictures of it installed. I went through the same thing with drag radials. The side walls were too stiff and it was very fine line with slipping and hooking with a bog. I found the ET street bias ply wrinkle wall tires worked best for me. I had about 15 psi in the tires and launch at 4000 rpm with a little spin and no bog.
 
#15 ·
Heddman elite 1 3/4" primaries with a 2 1/2" flowmaster system, H-pipe and tail pipes installed, super 44 mufflers
 
#16 ·
Congrats !!!

i m having clutch problems too , already worn out in 40 launches or so...need to fix this somehow . i m guessing wrong install. i m launching at 4000+ msd 2 step.

clutch by ram power grip hd

how difficult is to convert a m20 to m22w ? why did you choose the wide ratio ? i find it a really too big drop from 3rd to 4th gear . i assume that the original m22 ratio would be much better
 
#17 ·
Hi Oliver,
I'm running a centerforce dual friction clutch and seems to be holding up real well, but no where near 40 passes at the strip. I made the change from M20 wide ratio to the m22w (wide ratio)gear set based on Jody of Jody's transmissions recommendation. I like the ratio better and it is a slightly closer ratio than the standard M20. Here's how the ratios compare:
M20 wide ratio
2.52 first
1.88 second
1.46 third
1.0 fourth
M22W
2.56 first
1.75 second
1.37 third
1.0 fourth
M22 close ratio
2.20 first
1.64 second
1.28 third
1.00 fourth
 
#24 ·
John,
JB cracked an 11.9x last year with his budget 454 69 Chevelle
781s stock, good-sized-dome hypers, big cam....
many recipes to get that 11.9x
refreshing to see flattops, "tight" chambers, valves and flow work

several pals have std transmissions, think local guy Cobalt Mike has one of those hillbilly clutch things... I have a Muncie in the corvette, just like the reliability of my slushboxes.
 
#25 ·
A couple of years ago I was asking for input from the forum on how to wake up my flat top piston motor and was hoping to get to mid 12's. I followed the recommendation from you and several others in keeping with the low budget approach and i must say that I am very pleased with the results. I needed to get my compression ratio up without changing out the pistons so I found a set of factory 215 closed chamber oval port heads that had been rebuilt with larger valves, they just needed some bowl blending. So i thought what the heck, I'll read up on that and teach myself how to do head porting. After figuring out how much material to remove, I made myself a couple of round disc templates attached to a wooden dowel and used those to check the size of each port to keep them closely matched as possible. I didn't take them anywhere to flow test, but I think the bowl blending and mild porting really made a difference on the outcome. Ultimately i would like to build a 496 with AFR heads and hydraulic roller cam, need to save up some money for that!