[fouronthefloor]

After rebuilding my Hurst competition plus shifter, and 99% sure I did it right, I can't get the linkage back in. I changed from nylon washers to metal because the rod adjusting buttons were flapping in the breeze (and I ended up in 2nd and reverse and got towed). Now I can't get the new button into the 1-2 gate without it hitting the 3-4 gate. First picture I can see is not fully seated, and the 1-2 gate won't slide past the 3-4 gate. Second picture is a "before" and it looks like it had the 1-2 and 3-4 gates switched positions? Also he had the button on the gear box and not the shifter, is that a thing people do? I don't trust anything the PO did.

Going to a Muncie M21 on a 68 Chevelle SS.

 

[fouronthefloor]

After rebuilding my Hurst competition plus shifter, and 99% sure I did it right, I can't get the linkage back in. I changed from nylon washers to metal because the rod adjusting buttons were flapping in the breeze (and I ended up in 2nd and reverse and got towed). Now I can't get the new button into the 1-2 gate without it hitting the 3-4 gate. First picture I can see is not fully seated, and the 1-2 gate won't slide past the 3-4 gate. Second picture is a "before" and it looks like it had the 1-2 and 3-4 gates switched positions? Also he had the button on the gear box and not the shifter, is that a thing people do? I don't trust anything the PO did.

Going to a Muncie M21 on a 68 Chevelle SS.

I can confirm the shifter had the 1-2 and 3-4 gates swapped after reviewing a photo I took off the pieces laid out in order, but the gap between the two wouldn't change since previous assembly and my assembly per the instructions would provide the same offset between the two?

 

[Ericnova72]

Your photo of the button in the linkage hole...the button needs to go into the hole from the backside (bushing also).....that's why the reverse lever has such a big offset on it, so it will clear.

I "think" the 3/4 rod button goes in from the outside, so between the 1/2 and the 3/4 levers both retainer clips are facing each other.

If you want to tighten up the linkage even more, put a AN washer under the retainer clips, to shim it tighter.
AN washers are thinner than standard washers.

 

[Livin70]

Not sure , but hopefully these pics can help ?

 

[Livin70]

Just noticed , the pic from the box shows a Saginaw trans , but pic from my car is a Mucnie with the Comp Plus Shifter on my 70 .

 

[fouronthefloor]

Not sure , but hopefully these pics can help ?

This is helpful, thanks! I see a couple things:
1) your gates match what mine WAS, but not what I rebuilt it too (per the manual). I guess I'll switch back.
2) your reverse link also matches what mine WAS, but not what the instructions say (button on the gear box, not the shifter). again I guess I'll switch back.

 

[richiecat4223]

Maybe this video can help you:

 

[Livin70]

I THOUGHT I still had the old insulation inst.that came with the shifter but didn't see them when looking . I've had mine on?off a few times though the years , MIGHT have mine wrong too ? I don't know , but something I'll look into also .

 

[fouronthefloor]

Not that it matters, but does this not appear to have the smaller offset gate first (after reverse), offset in, and the larger offset gate 2nd, offset out? Well per the advice above and the "before" picture I took of my own, I switched them. Larger offset first and smaller offset second (offsets still away from each other), and it seems to be working! Thanks all, can't wait to get her back on the road tomorrow!

 

[fouronthefloor]

Maybe this video can help you:

This guy is the man, watched like 5 of his videos. I paused this is one and replicated the gate setup he had, and it's working 🙌

 

[richiecat4223]

This guy is the man, watched like 5 of his videos. I paused this is one and replicated the gate setup he had, and it's working 🙌

So if you followed this person's guide why are you having a problem?