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bbmuscle

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Does anybody have suggestions on what kind of front end bushings are the best as far as polyurethane bushings. I plan on buying a set for my chevelle but confused on what kind to buy :confused: I have been thinking about the sets they sell on the back of chevy high performance...any suggestions.
 
I have polygraphite bushings on my 72 Chevelle and like how they make the car feel. The polygraphite bushings are a self lubricating bushing and don't make noises like the polyurethane bushings have been known to. Keep in mind that the polygraphite bushings will give a different ride than the stock rubber bushings will, the polygraphite bushings will give you a tighter firmer ride than the rubber bushings will since polygraphite bushings won't deflect under cornering like the rubber bushings do. So if you want a tighter firmer ride and better handleing then go with the polygraphite bushings, if you want a stock type ride and probally smoother too then go with the rubber bushings.

Brandon
 
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I got mine from PST, can't remember the exact price because I got a few things from them. I got their front end kit, their rear bushing kit and a new centerlink. If I was able to do it over again I would have gone with rubber bushings for the rear, the polygraphite bushings really make the rear suspension firm. It's not an unbareable ride but it does get bumpy sometimes but not a spongy bouncy it's a firm bumpy ride but if I had used rubber bushings in the rear the ride would have probally been a little more smoother.

Brandon
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input!!
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I think I will definately go with the polygraphite bushings. I've never done a front end kit before and just wondering how much of a pain in the a** it is, like is it a weekend project or longer than a weekender?
 
I too used the standard poly bushings from Energy Suspension (I believe I ordered them through PST as well). IF I was to do it today, I'd opt for the graphite version, or spend the BIG $$ on the Del-A-Lum bushings.

Actually, I'd probably never be able to justifyt he cost of those to myself, not to mention to my wallet. ;)

BTW, my standard poly bushings squeek terribly at slow speeds when going over tracks or into/out of drveways, etc.
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Originally posted by bbmuscle:
Thanks for the input!!
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I think I will definately go with the polygraphite bushings. I've never done a front end kit before and just wondering how much of a pain in the a** it is, like is it a weekend project or longer than a weekender?
It depends on what kind of experience with working on things you have. Just keep in mind that you are dealing with a compressed spring that is under a lot of pressure so take special care with regards to safety. If you do one side, the second will take you half the time and effort.

If you are doing new bushings, I would recommend doing the whole front end, I mean, you already have it torn apart you might as well do it right.

If they aren’t already new, get new ball joints, tie rod ends, an idler arm and cross link. It will cost a little but far less than you will pay to have a front end shop do it. You don’t have to buy it all at once but you will be much happier with the finished product.

Get some jack stands and support the front of the car. I never used a pickle fork my self because I never had much luck with them. If you do use one, I don’t think there is a way to do it with out destroying the grease boot. With the car on jack stands, and the wheels off, put the floor jack just under the bottom ball joint with about ¼” gap. I use a 4X rivet gun to bust the taper on the ball joints. I have also used a hammer but you will have to replace the ball joints if you do it this way. Hit/hammer or impact gun the stud on the lower ball joint with the nut backed off just enough to see a bit of a gap between the nut and the spindle. When it brakes loose, you will get an idea of how much pressure you are dealing with. Now do the same thing on the top ball joint. Now you will have the upper and lower ball joint broke loose. Raise the floor jack enough to take the pressure off the upper ball joint and undo the upper ball joint. Did I already tell you to have the shock out? Now that you do, you can remove the spindle from the lower ball joint. It is up to you whether you want to undo the brake line or tie up the brake assembly. Have the floor jack handle pointing in front of the car, lower the jack and be careful because the spring could fly out to the side wile you are lowering the lower A arm. Once you have the spring in your hand it is as simple as removing the A arm pivot bolts and removing the bushings. You can use a bench vise and different size sockets to press out the old bushings. Just make sure you put a block of wood in the channel of the A arm so you don’t crush it when you press the new bushings in. Reverse the procedure to put everything back together.

Will
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the help and the links to different websites!!
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It doesnt sound like it will be all that bad of a project, and well worth the effort in the end.(steps #24 and 25 from the link that kamino69er posted, thanks)
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I have to copy/paste all the info onto microsoft word though because my printer is being stubborn again
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sometimes I have to turn it on and off before it will work, and know it wont work at all. Oh well, thanks guys!
 
If you are not going to use a spring compressor and just use the floor jack method of taking the pressure out of the spring, do yourself a favor in the name of safety, and run a chain through the lower a-arm and the spring so if some how your floor jack doesn't stay where it should and the a-arm lets go, the spring stays attached to your car. I saw a spring be "let go" one time, and let me tell you, you can not treat it with enough respect, especially if it is your first time taking one apart. Another thing to consider if you are thinking about not replacing all the frontend parts while you are at it is the cost of front end alignments if you replace parts here and there.
 
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