I just built my 355 similar to what you describe using my 1970 block. I used the 60122 cam in mine. It is the same cam as a retro fit as the 60112. I used a forged Eagle Crank, Scat 7/16" I beam rods, SRP 2 valve relief pistons and AFR 195cc runner 65cc chamber heads. I used the Morel retro rollers, edelbrock performer rpm and a 750. The only thing I cannot say for sure is whether or not you will need a small base circle cam. It does go to 6000 easily. If you plan on shifting it at 6000, your setup should be good. The extra inches will bring the powerband a touch lower, but since you are driving around 90% of the time I wouldn't be concerned. IF you were more concerned with racing, I might step up to the 60123 cam.

 

Use 6 inch rods so you can internal balance.

 

x2

 

I would go with smaller combustion chambers and a "D" cup piston. Be VERY careful with ring selection, as ring drag is a huge power sucker. You want the BEST bore work you can find, even if you must ship the block. With the best bores, you can run lighter ring tension and not have oiling problems. X2 on six inch rods. The Voodoo is always a good choice for whatever RPM range you decide on. I would not consider going to a 107 LDA. Whichever Voodoo you decide on, go with the way Harold designed it. Change the LDA will change the timing and if Harold thought it would work better with a 107, he would have made it that way. Some older AFR 195's if you can find some in good shape. If you have the Canfields, go with them. Yes, I'd use the roller block. if you go with roller lifters.

Now, here is what I would do. If you have a consistent supply of E-85, consider using that. You can bump up compression and use smaller combustion chambers and get about 13.5:1 with 62cc heads and flat tops. If I were building my 406 today, this is what I would have done. Looks like E-85 will be with us for a long time.

Keep asking for a few more weeks. I'm sure others will have similar advice or better advice.

 

Do you have a block yet?

If not, then consider a Dart SHP block as the foundation of this build and then start at 4.125 on the bore.

Once you get a block and do all the machine work your on a few dollars away from having a block fully preped by a guy like Carl at CNC Blocks N/e.

I have called him for prices and he is hard beat when you consider the prep work he puts into a block. And when that block leaves his door, it's dead balls on.

It's something to consider.

 

As for machine work I live close to Jim Grubbs Motorsports and have had nothing but spectacular work from them at my old job. I do not have a block yet that is why I was asking about starting with a roller or non roller block. The only reason I was going to go with a 72cc canfield is I am still somewhat on a budget and I have found these brand new canfields for under $900 but they are only offered in 72cc with angle plug. If I had another $600 to burn the AFR 195 eliminators or speier racing heads. What would be the benefit of using a d cup piston over flat top? I went to www.cncblocksnortheast.com and it comes up in chinese?

 

Also forgot since this will be all motor no power adders would I be better off going to a hypereutectic piston instead of forged?

 

Umm...NO.

Because if by some chance later on you did decide to add say a turbo or 100 shot of NOS its the difference between worrying about it coming apart or not. If they are high quality forgings and you want more cam yet need more space they can be fly cut where the hypers cannot.

 

Try this one:

http://WWW.CNCBLOCKSNE.COM/


Carl is a member here on TC:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/member.php?u=16448



I'd call for a price and a run down of the prep he does. He gave me a price shipped to my door that was very suprising.

Figure out what your going to pay for a stock block, then add all the machine work it could possibly need. Alot of times your going to need 100-250 for a block and then 400-800 in machine work if it needs line bore and hone, especially if your going to main bolts or studs, oh and the cost of the bolts or studs as the Dart has good hardware.


Sorry if I seem like i'm pushing something, but i've done alot of stock block SBC builds and now with this SHP block it's just penny wise, dollar foolish to source out a stock block and spend all that money on a used part that has limits.

 

Is there a problem with running a flat top piston with a 72cc head?

 

you just described my motor almost to a tee. a few differences.

scat forged crank (don't know the #'s)
scat H beam rods 5.7"
ross flat top forged pistons -4cc (10.8:1) block is 0 decked
AFR 195 heads with rocker studs upgraded to 7/16" ARP
comp cams XR288HR
edelbrock rpm air gap
MSD 6AL and pro billet dist. with no vac advance
holley 750hp
3.73 gears
TKO 600 (did have a TH350 with stock converter in it for a short time)

I got the SCAT kit that came all together. it is internal balance with 5.7" rods and no need for the small base circle cam. I love this motor. I daily drive (the h#ll out of) it. It runs like a beast. It will fry 3rd gear, and has reasonably good street manners. Only catch is there is no choke on the HP carb. So you gotta give it a minute before you really nail it. I run it on 91 octane with a full advance curve and no problems (without the need for any octane booster). Never had it dynoed, but my machinist did the desktop dyno deal and put it at 502hp/478lb ft. Not sure if that is true, but feels about right. It makes power to about 6500. mine is currently out of service since I damaged the crank snout when my ballancer spun and took out the woodruff key. I daily drove it for about 2 years and loved it. best part is that with the TKO trans it gets about 20mpg highway and about 11 around town. I was only getting about 6mpg with the TH350. So your build looks pretty good. I would change the combustion chamber size on the heads though unless you already own them. Oh yeah, this is in my '65 Chevelle.

My block is a GM 4 bolt out of a '70 C-10 that we owned since it was new and was well taken care of. I went .040 over this time (second rebuild). one cylinder didn't clean up and needed a sleeve, but no problems. I also sonic checked the block and had about .250 on the thinnest cyl walls. pretty much unheard of from what I was told, but that made for a good foundation. If you are starting from scratch, it would not cost much more to go with a block with bigger potential (and thus more horsepowere obviously).

The problem with the 72cc head is that will put you at quite a bit lower compression... not sure on the numbers, but I am sure you can use one of the calculators to tell you.

 

The forged probe pistons -4cc flat tops with a 72cc head should put me right at 10:1 and thats exactly the compression I would like to run. Is there a better burn with dome pistons? How hard was it to convert to the tko600?

 

10:1 should be good. just pay attention to your quench, and it should run good. the TKO was pretty easy. I had to cut a substantial hole in the floor for the top of the trans and shifter, and install the extra pedal and I also replaced my column (mine had a column shifter which is pretty strange for a SS, but that is what was there. no problems with the Lakewood bell. also had to get a custom driveshaft made, but that was a good excuse to go with the 1350 series U joints. In my opinion, the overdrive trans was money very well spent.

 

I don't like hypers at all. They are a replacement for cast pistons. If you are looking for any performance type application go forged.