I have a 454 with a 4 core brass radiator and a flex-a-lite electric fan, dual 12" that pulls 2500 cfm and a 180 t-stat. I know you've heard this a million times but...while sitting at a traffic light the temp will rise from 190 to 200-210ish then when I get moving it will come back down. One day when I got back home I let it idle in the driveway to see where it would stop and it went right past 220 so I shut it down. My question is should I get an aluminum radiator or a different fan? I bought the flex-a-lite fan because it was thin enough to fit between the radiator and the water pump, it's only 2 1/4" thick (I think) and there's not much room left. Does anyone know how deep the windstar fans are and how much air they move? If anyone else with a big block is using a brass radiator with a windstar fan (or other model) I'd be curious to know what temp your engine runs at when sitting in traffic. Thanks.
Engine running a little too hot these days
rednecks70
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I have a 454 with a 4 core brass radiator and a flex-a-lite electric fan, dual 12" that pulls 2500 cfm and a 180 t-stat. I know you've heard this a million times but...while sitting at a traffic light the temp will rise from 190 to 200-210ish then when I get moving it will come back down. One day when I got back home I let it idle in the driveway to see where it would stop and it went right past 220 so I shut it down. My question is should I get an aluminum radiator or a different fan? I bought the flex-a-lite fan because it was thin enough to fit between the radiator and the water pump, it's only 2 1/4" thick (I think) and there's not much room left. Does anyone know how deep the windstar fans are and how much air they move? If anyone else with a big block is using a brass radiator with a windstar fan (or other model) I'd be curious to know what temp your engine runs at when sitting in traffic. Thanks.
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What 70GS said above is very true. However, a better cooling radiator will also require less airflow to drop the temp. If you think your radiator is a bit dated you could consider swapping another radiator in there.
I bought the alumitech version for my chevelle and am VERY pleased with it. My old setup did exactly what you describe but with a properly functioning mechanical fan. Those problems are now gone for me, I tested it during our heat wave the last 2 weeks.
I bought the alumitech version for my chevelle and am VERY pleased with it. My old setup did exactly what you describe but with a properly functioning mechanical fan. Those problems are now gone for me, I tested it during our heat wave the last 2 weeks.
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I was thinking the same thing, that an aluminum radiator would transfer the heat quicker and make the fan more effective. I know several people on this board are using that exact same fan with big blocks so they must be using an aluminum radiator, one member was in texas. The brass radiator is not that old (maybe 5 years at most) and well taken care of so I know it flows well. It's a shame because the guy at the speed shop talked me out of an aluminum and said a 4 core brass would be sufficient and would be half the money.
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Sorry, forgot to add that I really need dimensions on the windstar fans. Very little space between the radiator and the water pump. I basically need to know how deep/wide it is? Thanks.
I would definetly go with the alum. radiator and look for the new Black Magic Extreme fan from Flexilite. It is a single that moves 3200 cfm of air. I can run my car in 92 DEGREE weather and it barely gets to 180-185. I am using this combo with a 180 thermostat, distilled water, water wetter, and coolant.
Steve
Steve
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Alumitech's radiator is literally a drop-in replacement and looks 100% stock if painted black. The only dimension that MIGHT be different is where the core is situated between the tanks.
Alumitech's is centered, so if that's what you have now you will be fine.
Note a top-quality new brass/copper would probably cool as well as Alum. But for the weight savings, looks, and proven efficiency I went with the Alumitech and am really happy with it. They even put in a bung for a zinc anode that they also provided cheap - protects all your aluminum parts that come in contact with the antifreeze.
Alumitech's is centered, so if that's what you have now you will be fine.
Note a top-quality new brass/copper would probably cool as well as Alum. But for the weight savings, looks, and proven efficiency I went with the Alumitech and am really happy with it. They even put in a bung for a zinc anode that they also provided cheap - protects all your aluminum parts that come in contact with the antifreeze.
If you want something that still looks original, talk to a good radiator shop.
I have a 540 HP 454 70SS with a/c. It stays at 190 no matter what the outside temp even in the hot south where I live.
To get this I had a radiator shop make me a radiator. They use a 5 core radiator similar to that used on the grand national cars. It will fit in the original brackets and looks stock. When they finished I painted it with eastwoods special radiator paint. With that I use the stock clutch fan. I also use a edelbrock victor series water pump and 180 thermostat.
As I mentioned earlier it looks original and never goes above 190. Email me if you need more info on this at stein@integrity.com...
I have a 540 HP 454 70SS with a/c. It stays at 190 no matter what the outside temp even in the hot south where I live.
To get this I had a radiator shop make me a radiator. They use a 5 core radiator similar to that used on the grand national cars. It will fit in the original brackets and looks stock. When they finished I painted it with eastwoods special radiator paint. With that I use the stock clutch fan. I also use a edelbrock victor series water pump and 180 thermostat.
As I mentioned earlier it looks original and never goes above 190. Email me if you need more info on this at stein@integrity.com...
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