This is how much distance it needs in the manifold to make level

 

Looks about right. Engines are usually installed with about a 3° downward angle to match the rear end pinion angle.

Mike

 

That’s pretty normal

 

To use the carburetor mounting flange as a bench mark, everything else involved would have to be as "Factory". All things being equal I think your setup look's pretty good...... :thumbsup:

 

Awesome that's great news y'all saved me some sleep tonight haha thanks for the replies!

 

My '66 has the same angle.

You're good to go. :thumbsup:

 

Hard to be definitive from pics, but it looks more than 3* to me. You can see the carb flange has been machined at an angle. Since they can choose any angle to machine this flange, why wouldn't they machine it so that the carb sits flat, not tilted???

Is your rear xmember bent? Check the drive line angle with the angle on the diff yoke, should be the same or very close [ at standard ride height ].

 

Hard to be definitive from pics, but it looks more than 3* to me. You can see the carb flange has been machined at an angle. Since they can choose any angle to machine this flange, why wouldn't they machine it so that the carb sits flat, not tilted???

Is your rear xmember bent? Check the drive line angle with the angle on the diff yoke, should be the same or very close [ at standard ride height ].

With the 5th Pic it is hard to tell if this the Back(Left) to Front(Right) Angle,
which is suppose to be there as the Motor sits High in the Front
Or if it is the Side to Side Angle
which would mean there are problems with either the Engine Or Frame Mounts

The Intakes are Angled to compensate for this Engine Lower in the Back & Higher in the Front so a/the Carb sits Flat
EG. The Intake is Higher in the Back since the Engine is Angled Down there
and Lower in the Front since the Front Engine is Angled Up there

 

Carb mounting should be level, shims under the transmission mount should be able to correct the angle. But before adjusting anything make sure the suspension isn't sagging, there is not a bunch of stuff in the trunk weighing the back down, tires are aired up and the floor your car is sitting on is level. If the floor is a bubble off so will the measurement at the carb mount.

 

OP what are those Black Dots on the Rad Core in the 4th Pic ?

Efan or ?? mounted on Front of Rad Core ???

That is a NO NO as it blocks the Air Flow

 

Thanks for the input guys and for the pictures awesome info from everyone in going to shim my crossmember to make it less drastic and check the angle then also the black on my rad core is the trans cooler the radiator is for a standard car and doesn't have a in core trans cooler I've actually got 2 stacked together because it got hot but ended up being a damn rolled converter sprag heating things up do you think I could get away with one cooler and no in core cooler??? Thanks again this is the reason I love this fourm!

 

Also the engine is level left to right just front to rear angle is off

 

While those black clips for holding the trans cooler do work, I'd rather hang the cooler off of something else with zip ties and duct tape, if those clips get loose the cooler could rub on the radiator wearing a hole through both of them. A custom bracket would be the way to go. This is from experience learned from the side of the road. On your original question about the engine leaning back I've seen stuff leaning worse than yours still somehow running fine so if shims cause too much trouble I'd at least try it like that before I'd try drastic measures.

 

Thanks for the tip ill be moving my cooler to a different spot with zip tie method haha and that's good to hear ill shim if I can and throw a carb on it and well see what we got thanks again

 

I use a double pass finned aluminum transmission cooler. They work well and come in several lengths to fit almost anywhere. Mount anywhere there is airflow, I have seen them under the core support and behind bumpers that have openings for airflow like 69 Chevelles. I chose this location because there was ample room and it does not restrict airflow through the condenser and radiator.

Final install, painted to black to be invisible behind the grill

 

It looks good Phil, I was thinking of doing the same myself, but it might not work that way, looks like a bad possiblity for an air trap, I've been looking into it, but you may want to prime it somehow to be on the safe side. Maybe someone else knows better but I've never seen a dual pass mounted completely vertical, and old style fin coolers always warn about mounting certain ways. Edit thought you were OP apparently you have this working already, good to know.

 

Rame the car has 2000 miles on it now and it seems to be working fine. Not sure how it could trap an air bubble, fluid flows in and then back to the transmission. At some point in the transmission it makes it way back to the oil pan so it is not a closed loop. My buddy has one in his 427 LS Camaro with a 4L80E transmission and a 3500 rpm stall. His transmission temps are good even when he is running it hard.

 

Thanks Philip, I was wondering about doing the same thing, didn't know if it had been tested or not, thanks again!

 

If you move the cooler away from the radiator (with a gap in between the two), you will not get much airflow at idle through the cooler (this info is from the shop that built my transmission). Mine is attached to my AC condenser, so that the air that gets pulled into the fan shroud at idle will pull through everything. If you relocate it, you may need a fan attached to it.